Possible bcm issue or something else?
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
From: NJ
Possible bcm issue or something else? Stereo won't turn on, driver window doesn't work but pass does, interior buttons on both sides will unlock the car but neither will lock it (although the remote can).
I took the bcm out and tried soldering twice but the issues persist. Am I not good at soldering or is the another possible issue?
I took the bcm out and tried soldering twice but the issues persist. Am I not good at soldering or is the another possible issue?
Moving to Stereo and Electronics.
If you sign up on AutoZone.com, you will have access (in the Repair Section) to all the factory electrical schematics and can confirm the common failure points between these circuits.
If you sign up on AutoZone.com, you will have access (in the Repair Section) to all the factory electrical schematics and can confirm the common failure points between these circuits.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,329
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
The reason that there is a solder fix for the BCM is to repair cracked solder joints which affect the retained accessory power (RAP) circuit which allows the radio and windows to work for a period of time after the ignition is shut off or until a door is opened. All power for those circuits comes through the RAP circuit which is why they will occasionally cut out even when the ignition is on. But it also means that your symptoms aren't related... if it was a BCM/RAP problem then neither of your windows would work. Since your right side window works, you can rule out the solder problem as the source.
Similarly, you can probably rule out the BCM as the source of your door lock problem. Whether you use the remote or the inside switches, it's the BCM that actually operates the door locks so it is certainly working well enough to operate them via the remote. It is remotely possible (see what I did there?) that there is a broken connection inside the BCM where the grounding signal from the door lock switches (red/black wire in pin C of the green 6-pin connector at the BCM) connects but I've never heard of that happening. It is much more likely that there is a break somewhere in that red/black wire between the switches and the BCM, that the pin for that wire is loose in the green connector, or that the switches themselves are bad.
Similarly, you can probably rule out the BCM as the source of your door lock problem. Whether you use the remote or the inside switches, it's the BCM that actually operates the door locks so it is certainly working well enough to operate them via the remote. It is remotely possible (see what I did there?) that there is a broken connection inside the BCM where the grounding signal from the door lock switches (red/black wire in pin C of the green 6-pin connector at the BCM) connects but I've never heard of that happening. It is much more likely that there is a break somewhere in that red/black wire between the switches and the BCM, that the pin for that wire is loose in the green connector, or that the switches themselves are bad.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
From: NJ
The reason that there is a solder fix for the BCM is to repair cracked solder joints which affect the retained accessory power (RAP) circuit which allows the radio and windows to work for a period of time after the ignition is shut off or until a door is opened. All power for those circuits comes through the RAP circuit which is why they will occasionally cut out even when the ignition is on. But it also means that your symptoms aren't related... if it was a BCM/RAP problem then neither of your windows would work. Since your right side window works, you can rule out the solder problem as the source.
Similarly, you can probably rule out the BCM as the source of your door lock problem. Whether you use the remote or the inside switches, it's the BCM that actually operates the door locks so it is certainly working well enough to operate them via the remote. It is remotely possible (see what I did there?) that there is a broken connection inside the BCM where the grounding signal from the door lock switches (red/black wire in pin C of the green 6-pin connector at the BCM) connects but I've never heard of that happening. It is much more likely that there is a break somewhere in that red/black wire between the switches and the BCM, that the pin for that wire is loose in the green connector, or that the switches themselves are bad.
Similarly, you can probably rule out the BCM as the source of your door lock problem. Whether you use the remote or the inside switches, it's the BCM that actually operates the door locks so it is certainly working well enough to operate them via the remote. It is remotely possible (see what I did there?) that there is a broken connection inside the BCM where the grounding signal from the door lock switches (red/black wire in pin C of the green 6-pin connector at the BCM) connects but I've never heard of that happening. It is much more likely that there is a break somewhere in that red/black wire between the switches and the BCM, that the pin for that wire is loose in the green connector, or that the switches themselves are bad.
Any idea why the radio would have no power? Checked both fuses for that already.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,329
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Is it a factory or aftermarket radio? A factory radio could have just given up after 20+ years. Will it load and eject CDs (they can do that without being turned on)? An aftermarket radio usually has its own fuse in its chassis that could have blown independent of the fuses in the main fuse panel.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
From: NJ
Is it a factory or aftermarket radio? A factory radio could have just given up after 20+ years. Will it load and eject CDs (they can do that without being turned on)? An aftermarket radio usually has its own fuse in its chassis that could have blown independent of the fuses in the main fuse panel.
Thanks again.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
From: NJ
Put in a new window switch and same thing. Pass side works, driver doea not. Can hear a faint click under the pass side dash when I press the button so power is making it from the switch to somewhere. I suppose its possible it's the window motor but I can't shake the feeling that the radio, the window and the lock buttons inside the car are all tied to the same issue.
EDIT: lock button both doors is working. Although the driver side one is either dying or has a bad connection somehwrre since it takes a couple presses sometimes.
EDIT: lock button both doors is working. Although the driver side one is either dying or has a bad connection somehwrre since it takes a couple presses sometimes.
Last edited by 98F-1camaro; Oct 7, 2020 at 07:55 PM.
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The clicking is the express down module for the driver's side window actuating.
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,329
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Put in a new window switch and same thing. Pass side works, driver doea not. Can hear a faint click under the pass side dash when I press the button so power is making it from the switch to somewhere. I suppose its possible it's the window motor but I can't shake the feeling that the radio, the window and the lock buttons inside the car are all tied to the same issue.
EDIT: lock button both doors is working. Although the driver side one is either dying or has a bad connection somehwrre since it takes a couple presses sometimes.
EDIT: lock button both doors is working. Although the driver side one is either dying or has a bad connection somehwrre since it takes a couple presses sometimes.
Testing the RAP circuit is a simple matter of checking for power at the RADIO fuse (#17 - 15A) or the WINDOWS circuit breaker (#15 - 30A). Turn on the ignition (either to ACCY or RUN position), remove the fuse or circuit breaker, and use a test light or multimeter to check for power on the terminals in the fuse socket. One terminal should have power (the other won't because the fuse or circuit breaker has been removed). If you find power at the fuse panel then you know the RAP circuit in the BCM is working. That means you have two separate problems for radio and windows,
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
From: NJ
So we can eliminate the door locks from being involved in the same issue since they mostly work. The only two things that the radio and the windows have in common are the RAP power supply from the BCM and grounding at G200 which is the ground stud under the left side of the dash behind the left kick panel. It is extremely unlikely that the ground is the problem since there are a dozen or more other circuits which share that same ground.
Testing the RAP circuit is a simple matter of checking for power at the RADIO fuse (#17 - 15A) or the WINDOWS circuit breaker (#15 - 30A). Turn on the ignition (either to ACCY or RUN position), remove the fuse or circuit breaker, and use a test light or multimeter to check for power on the terminals in the fuse socket. One terminal should have power (the other won't because the fuse or circuit breaker has been removed). If you find power at the fuse panel then you know the RAP circuit in the BCM is working. That means you have two separate problems for radio and windows,
Testing the RAP circuit is a simple matter of checking for power at the RADIO fuse (#17 - 15A) or the WINDOWS circuit breaker (#15 - 30A). Turn on the ignition (either to ACCY or RUN position), remove the fuse or circuit breaker, and use a test light or multimeter to check for power on the terminals in the fuse socket. One terminal should have power (the other won't because the fuse or circuit breaker has been removed). If you find power at the fuse panel then you know the RAP circuit in the BCM is working. That means you have two separate problems for radio and windows,
Last edited by 98F-1camaro; Oct 9, 2020 at 07:36 PM.