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Issues with headlight harness 02 Trans Am

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Old Nov 1, 2020 | 06:37 PM
  #21  
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I've tried a few different brands. I've had some luck with Auxito on Amazon. Regardless of brand, drop-in LED are trial-and-error / hit-or-miss if they work well in the the housing to produce a good beam. Check reviews and look at output pics to make sure the resulting beam looks similar to the original beam and isn't negatively altered (most pics people post are too close to a wall to show though).

Some other higher end brands to try are Diode Dynamics and VLEDs. I don't have any personal experience with them but they get good reviews.

Also make sure whichever ones you get have a good heatsink on them and possibly a fan. The high beam ones I bought don't have a fan, but I don't use the high beam much and the back of the bulb is fully exposed to the air and not covered inside a housing.

Last edited by VIP1; Nov 2, 2020 at 01:59 AM.
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Old Nov 1, 2020 | 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by RONIN LSX
So many LED options, on fleabay and Scamazon, which brands is the best choice, from the LMC mod?

As for my current issue, I picked up a full set of the Dorman 85896 and Dorman 85897. I hope these help.
These are the old bulb connectors. The LMC housings take a different type of bulb with a different connector.

BTW - I was in the hardware store today and saw "Needle File Sets". These would be perfect for filing the corrosion off the terminals in the motor connector. I wish I had thought of this before. It would have made faster/easier work out of it.
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Old Nov 1, 2020 | 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by VIP1
I've tried a few different brands. I've had some luck with Auxito on Amazon. Regardless of brand, drop-in LED are trial-and-error / hit-or-miss if they work well in the the housing to produce a good beam. Check reviews and look at output pics to make sure the resulting beam looks similar to the original beam and isn't negatively altered (most pics people post are too close to a wall to show though).

Some other higher end brands to try are Diode Dynamics and VLEDs. I don't have any personally experience with them but they get good reviews.

Also make sure whichever ones you get have a good heatsink on them and possibly a fan. The high beam ones I bought don't have a fan, but I don't use the high beam much and the back of the bulb is fully exposed to the air and not covered inside a housing.

Thanks for the info
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Old Nov 1, 2020 | 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by wssix99
These are the old bulb connectors. The LMC housings take a different type of bulb with a different connector.

BTW - I was in the hardware store today and saw "Needle File Sets". These would be perfect for filing the corrosion off the terminals in the motor connector. I wish I had thought of this before. It would have made faster/easier work out of it.

I just need to get my light working right, for now, so hopefully these will work, then I'll piece together the LED kit yet.
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Old Nov 2, 2020 | 01:58 AM
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Also make sure the drop-in LED you buy is rotatable/clockable so that you can make sure the LED are correctly rotated/oriented in the housing.
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Old Nov 7, 2020 | 11:30 AM
  #26  
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Hey guys, weird issue lastnight... I have been having intermittent issue with my cooling system, not sure if it's a bad temp gauge or sensor, but anyways... last night, as I was pulling in my driveway, I stopped to chat with my neighbor. Not thinking, I sat with the engine running and it started to get hot... the temp showed fine, but it started dumping fuel and running bad, like I said, having some issues there, every so often. Anyways... when I turned off the car, the driver light would not go down so I had to flip the switch a few times before it did. This has happened once before, but a long while back.

Could this be an expanded issue, from when you said that the wires in the motor was bad and possibly causing my light issue?

Which HL motor is considered the "primary" motor, for the issues I'm having, with the lights, or can both be equally at fault? I'm wondering if I should just say screw it and replace both motors, instead of just replacing the connectors, to try am eliminate my headlight issues.

I hope I explained this clear enough, I'm on my pain meds so...
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Old Nov 7, 2020 | 12:11 PM
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On the cooing issue; you'd need to scan the sensors to see what they are putting out.

On the headlight going down, this could be a stripped headlight motor gear or a solder joint crack problem in the headlight control module. (If you aren't hearing grinding and it's getting more frequent over time, I'd guess the latter. There is some recent discussion in the Firebird section under the headlight sticky on this problem.)

For the problem you are having with the shorts, it can be either side. They are connected together. If you disconnect each side one-by-one, the bad one will be the disconnected side when the connected side works properly. Either way, if you are going to the trouble of disconnecting the connectors, you should be able to clean them up with some needle files and be good for years until the problem comes back.
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