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Electrical issues after radiator geyser

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Old Jan 5, 2022 | 05:09 PM
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Default Electrical issues after radiator geyser

97 Camaro Z28
So I was replacing my leaking radiator and during the flush process, I got a little impatient and opened the cap too early. Needless to say, the whole passenger side got a nice shower. I grabbed a leaf blower and used it to dry everything out as best as I could, and let it chill for a few days to dry everything out. After those few days I start it up and everything is golden, I take a drive around town, and run some errands. I turned the car off once and after that I couldn't get it to start again. Got a jump from my wife, but it took longer than expected. Driving home, the tach is jittery and the speedo is increasing with rpms not actual vehicle speed and the check gauges light flashes dimly here and there. After having the car home I realize that its probably not the jump that got the car started again. The car just seems to start or not whenever it pleases. When it starts everything seems to be running normal except for the gauges. When it doesn't start, I can tell as soon as I turn the key to the first position. All my electronics come on as normal, but no high pitched whine from the fuel pump. Turn the key and nothing, no trying to start, no click, just nothing. Kind of like when the VATS activates, but the security light doesn't come on.

I know that's a long description. I haven't done anything with it yet, I'm trying to figure out where to even start, so any advice is helpful.

EDIT: It's fixed and I feel dumber for it. Remember how I said I blasted the engine bay with a leaf blower? Yeah well I didn't realize the clip was busted on the connector to my voltage regulator and the blast of air knocked it a little loose from the alternator. I cleaned it up with some contact cleaner and canned air, snugged it back up in place and everything is golden again.

Last edited by W Doherty; Jan 7, 2022 at 03:47 PM.
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Old Jan 6, 2022 | 08:13 AM
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There really isn't anything under the hood that is sensitive to being splashed with water (high pressure water is a different thing) so I doubt the coolant shower was the cause of this problem although it might have aggravated a preexisting condition. I would disconnect the red and blue connectors on the PCM and check them closely for moisture, corrosion, misaligned pins or anything else that seems out of the ordinary. Put some dielectric grease on them and reassemble. Hopefully, that's all that's needed to get back to normal.

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Old Jan 6, 2022 | 03:34 PM
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After I posted, I actually did check the PCM. The connections are all super clean. Hooked it back up and the problem persists. Today when considering all the symptoms, I'm thinking the voltage regulator might be the culprit. And maybe it was the water and maybe it wasn't, could just be one of those coincidental failures. I'll test and/or replace the alt this weekend and see if that clears things up.
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