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I cant stand how my speakers sound in my car... 1998 Z28.
I replaced the stock speakers with Pioneer TS-A1675R in the doors and also the hatch speakers.
I feel like its quiet and by the time I get it loud enough to hear they sound muffled AND tinny at the same time... this was the exact issue I had with the stockers. I do have a 10" Rockford Fosgate in the back for bass.
I had the same head unit on both sets of speakers. It is a JVC KD-AVX77 El Kameleon.
I'm using the stock amp btw.
Is this a speaker issue or is the factory amp that bad? Is it the head unit? It has an equalizer but no matter what I can't get it where I'm happy, not remotely. Literally every stock speaker setup I've had in all my vehicles sound better. My 2019 4Runner sounds far better and it doesn't even have the optional JBL setup.
I cant stand how my speakers sound in my car... 1998 Z28.
I replaced the stock speakers with Pioneer TS-A1675R in the doors and also the hatch speakers.
I feel like its quiet and by the time I get it loud enough to hear they sound muffled AND tinny at the same time... this was the exact issue I had with the stockers. I do have a 10" Rockford Fosgate in the back for bass.
I had the same head unit on both sets of speakers. It is a JVC KD-AVX77 El Kameleon.
I'm using the stock amp btw.
Is this a speaker issue or is the factory amp that bad? Is it the head unit? It has an equalizer but no matter what I can't get it where I'm happy, not remotely. Literally every stock speaker setup I've had in all my vehicles sound better. My 2019 4Runner sounds far better and it doesn't even have the optional JBL setup.
I'm starting to think I may have wired them incorrectly but I don't recall the setup. Are there 4 wires in the doors or just 2?
I'm going to dig further into it today. It was late last night but I'm pretty positive I have them hooked up wrong. Will report back. I do think the speakers are probably mehhh regardless. One thing i do know, is they are coaxial speakers and I know I only hooked up 1 set of wires.
If you have a monsoon you need a component speaker that can mount the tweeter on the speaker. They are on separate channels. Kee Audio has that type speaker.
Yeah I have read and referenced that in the past..and I'm just trying to make what I have work for the time being. They are component speakers and I know they don't belong in the doors, necessarily. On this particular set you can't wire the tweeters independently from the mids.
Turns out all of my speakers were hooked up properly except one of the full range hatch speakers had the wires flip flopped. I had all of the mid range wires soldering in correctly.
It does sound better now, but I know I need to address the tweeter situation eventually... by bypassing the factory amp, adding my own, or adding proper speakers like CDTs...etc etc. I'm not pleased with it at this time but it will work until I decide to upgrade. I have performance on mind for the time being.
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Originally Posted by Tyler Dietzenbach
They are component speakers and I know they don't belong in the doors, necessarily. On this particular set you can't wire the tweeters independently from the mids.
If the tweeters and mids can't be wired separately then, by definition, they aren't components - just ordinary coaxial speakers. However, depending on the design of the ones you have, it may be possible to modify them to be components. If the small tinned wires going from the connection terminals to the tweeter in the middle of the speaker are accessible then you can cut them and connect them to the separate tweeter wire pair in the door thus converting the coaxials into a component set. It's a good no-cost option that's not too difficult if you can get access to the wires (some coaxial speakers have them tucked away out of sight), have small hands (and/or small jewelry size tools), and a bunch of patience. A number of members here have done it with great success.
Sorry yes they are coaxial facepalm..there were only 1 set of wires available to solder. The only wires I saw come from the tweeters, through the speaker, and to the terminal.
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Yes, those wires you see coming from the tweeter through the cone to the terminals are the ones you could cut and attach separately to the factory tweeter wires. By the looks of it, that might not easy because there's not a whole lot of slack although you might be able to gain a little by gently pulling a little more wire through the cone.
Yes, those wires you see coming from the tweeter through the cone to the terminals are the ones you could cut and attach separately to the factory tweeter wires. By the looks of it, that might not easy because there's not a whole lot of slack although you might be able to gain a little by gently pulling a little more wire through the cone.
That's what I thought too but those are the ONLY wires at all. I don't see wires for the woofer anywhere.
The woofer would be powered directly from the terminals - you usually don't see visible wires for that.
Is there any chance they are wired in series or something where i can't see? I did try to tie into the wires coming from the tweeter and the woofer still plays.
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
I suppose anything is possible but that would be very unusual. Coaxial speakers are almost always wired with the tweeter and woofer in parallel.
When you say you tied into the tweeter wires, what exactly do you mean? Did you disconnect the speaker's tweeter wires from the speaker terminals or did you just connect with them still in place? In the latter case, every element will still work because they are all still electrically connected.
I suppose anything is possible but that would be very unusual. Coaxial speakers are almost always wired with the tweeter and woofer in parallel.
When you say you tied into the tweeter wires, what exactly do you mean? Did you disconnect the speaker's tweeter wires from the speaker terminals or did you just connect with them still in place? In the latter case, every element will still work because they are all still electrically connected.
I cut them off and wired the car's woofer wires to the 2 wires that come off the tweeter and go through the cone, leaving myself as much length as possible.
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
That will likely sound like crap since the car's woofer wire pair is low pass filtered at the Monsoon amp. After cutting the tweeter wires, you want to connect the factory woofer wires to the speaker terminals and the factory tweeter wires to the cut speaker wires.
That will likely sound like crap since the car's woofer wire pair is low pass filtered at the Monsoon amp. After cutting the tweeter wires, you want to connect the factory woofer wires to the speaker terminals and the factory tweeter wires to the cut speaker wires.
exactly... but what I'm saying is the woofer is still playing while having the leads from the tweeter wired to the car. This leads me to believe the tweeter and woofer are in series... which causes both the tweeter and woofer getting LPF. This is likely the problem I need to address.
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
That's really interesting. I wonder if it's wired that way because it's a 3-way speaker? In essence you have a woofer with a mid and a tweeter mounted inside the cone. I don't know what else to suggest other than trying a different speaker. I don't suppose you have any old speakers lying around? You might want to experiment before going out and buying expensive speakers like the CDTs just in case it's not the speaker causing the sound issue. I know the CDTs are a huge improvement over stock and are generally loved by those who get them but I would hate to spend that money and find out the problem is something else.
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Speakers sound horrible.. 
