Converting a externally regulated alternator to internally regulated?
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From: N. E. Arkansas
Converting a externally regulated alternator to internally regulated? Has any one done this to a 2014 + Chevy truck small case alternator?
The reason I ask is I am trying to put together a "poor persons" holley mid mount kit for my car lol.
Rather than pay the upcharges for thier $460 alternator I am looking at two options:
1. Get a 2000-2006 Silverado Alternator and modify the stud with an extension like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/28443556286...3ABFBMqNHu9cJg
This option will work, but it puts the stud extension a little farther oout the side than I would like it...and a little farther away from the plug
2. Get a 2014 + silverado alternator that has the stud coming from the side factory......but I would have to change the voltage regulator out to one from a 2000-2006 alternator. This is the option I would rather go as it would look cleaner and more factory
Has anyone done this? I can get a replacement alternator for around $100-125 and save myself $300
The reason I ask is I am trying to put together a "poor persons" holley mid mount kit for my car lol.
Rather than pay the upcharges for thier $460 alternator I am looking at two options:
1. Get a 2000-2006 Silverado Alternator and modify the stud with an extension like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/28443556286...3ABFBMqNHu9cJg
This option will work, but it puts the stud extension a little farther oout the side than I would like it...and a little farther away from the plug
2. Get a 2014 + silverado alternator that has the stud coming from the side factory......but I would have to change the voltage regulator out to one from a 2000-2006 alternator. This is the option I would rather go as it would look cleaner and more factory
Has anyone done this? I can get a replacement alternator for around $100-125 and save myself $300
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Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 1,309
Likes: 660
Maybe leave the 2016 alternator alone and control it with this:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...hrow-away.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...hrow-away.html
I think the DR37 / DR44 alternator will default to 13.8V regulated if you remove the PWM control wire. That is acceptable for a flooded lead acid battery, same as what many off-highway diesel engines still do today. Battery will live for years like that.
The stock ECM has advanced charging strategies to help extend battery life by better optimizing charging voltage to what is more near ideal for the battery. Things like temperature compensation, charging batteries as fast as possible after engine start up until the battery temp rises, the list goes on. This is how the OEM's have managed to improve battery life. Moving battery out of hot engine bay into interior of the car is where the big gains are found in battery life. But again, it's no disaster to charge at a constant 13.8V, it's just not ideal.
The stock ECM has advanced charging strategies to help extend battery life by better optimizing charging voltage to what is more near ideal for the battery. Things like temperature compensation, charging batteries as fast as possible after engine start up until the battery temp rises, the list goes on. This is how the OEM's have managed to improve battery life. Moving battery out of hot engine bay into interior of the car is where the big gains are found in battery life. But again, it's no disaster to charge at a constant 13.8V, it's just not ideal.
Last edited by QwkTrip; Sep 23, 2022 at 09:46 PM.
