Big 3 & Alternator Question
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,367
Likes: 144
From: Woodstock, GA
Big 3 & Alternator Question After so many years and miles (392,000 of them) I finally did the big 3; I actually still have a few more cables to run. I've got 1/0 cables running from the battery + to the relay/fuse terminal. Battery - to the body - fender well. Big difference even with the stock cs130 105A alternator. I still need to go from the alternator + to the relay/fuse terminal (whatever it's called). I may run another ground cable from the body to the engine.
I have an alternator that I purchased from Powermaster a few years ago, a 160A. After a few months after installing it, it started pulsating lights ....etc. I'm assuming it's a shorted diode in the rectifier giving me the pulsating DC. I noticed that the rectifier is DR4204 which has 35A diodes - seems fine for 105A but not 160A - that is if the demand was ever over 105A. Could this be as simple as swapping out the rectifier with some 50A or 60A diodes?
I have an alternator that I purchased from Powermaster a few years ago, a 160A. After a few months after installing it, it started pulsating lights ....etc. I'm assuming it's a shorted diode in the rectifier giving me the pulsating DC. I noticed that the rectifier is DR4204 which has 35A diodes - seems fine for 105A but not 160A - that is if the demand was ever over 105A. Could this be as simple as swapping out the rectifier with some 50A or 60A diodes?
