Hello, I just recently picked up a 1993 Camaro equipped with the VATS system in it. It was giving me trouble (Like coming on in the middle of a drive and shutting the car off) so I went ahead and decided to bypass it. I purchased the Gator VATS bypass module. Measured the resistance of my key (667 ohms) and set the bypass module accordingly. Plugged the module into the 2 pin connector near the steering column in the dash and performed the relearn procedure (Let key sit in "run" for 10 minutes) the Security light went off and I was able to drive the car. After the car sat for a couple hours at home I now have a solid security light on again and have to wait 5-10 minutes for it to go off again and this happens every time the car sits for more than like 10 minutes. The only other thing I noticed is that when I remove the key from the ignition the security light stays on for a while after the key is removed. The security light never blinks, it is always just solid. Is this a problem with the security module in the car or is something else going on. Any help is appreciated, Thanks!

 

I was under the impression that the bypass module would negate VATS entirely. Maybe you have the wrong resistance.

 

The first problem is using the Gator bypass module - the biggest ripoff made for our cars. Why buy snake oil for $75 when you can install a resistor or two for about $2?

The second problem is that there is no 667 ohm resistance used by GM. So, as wannafbody suspected, you have the wrong resistance. Here is a chart of the fifteen possible resistance values used for VATS along with the resistor or combination of resistors which will make up those values...




You used to be able to run over to Radio Shack and pick up the resistors really cheap, but these days you'll generally have to order them online. Measure your key again (or measure the spare key if you have it). Make sure the contacts are clean using rubbing alcohol to get a better reading. BTW, if your 667 turns out to really be 681, you can use a single 680 resistor instead of the 680 + 1 that I have in the chart - it will be close enough to work properly. I really need to update that chart.

 

Thanks for all the info! I will re-measure the key with a better DMM and will hopefully get a better reading. I did take the vehicle to work and besides having to wait in the morning, I did not have any trouble with the security all day. I will re measure and decide what the best course of action is.

 

Run the module's red power wire to a constant 12V source, like the radio fuse. It's losing memory when the ignition is off. The security light staying on confirms it. A constant hot wire will fix the relearn cycle.

 

Wouldn't that drain the battery after sitting for long periods of time?

 

That depends on what you mean by a long period of time. The draw would be no more than the clock and station memory used by the radio, so it shouldn't be enough to cause a problem for a car that is used every couple of weeks or so. As a daily driver, it wouldn't even be noticeable.