Amp Wiring...
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Originally Posted by CamTom12
...I need more mid to low sound....
1 Pioneer DEH-P3600 HU (50W x 4 max)
1 Rockford Fosgate Punch P3001 Amp (150W rms @ 4 Ohms; 300W rms @ 2 Ohms)
Ok, so I how now do I hook up the Amp to my two Rockford subs (150W rms, 300W max, 4 Ohm)?
Here's my train of thought:
If I line them up in series I'll come out to 8 Ohms and they'll be underpowered, but if I line them up in parallel I get 2 Ohms and overpowered... Am I way off? (and I went ahead and got some SPS-100A's for the trunk because now that they'll get some clear sound I might not fade the sound mostly the front anymore
)
Thanks!
1 Pioneer DEH-P3600 HU (50W x 4 max)
1 Rockford Fosgate Punch P3001 Amp (150W rms @ 4 Ohms; 300W rms @ 2 Ohms)
Ok, so I how now do I hook up the Amp to my two Rockford subs (150W rms, 300W max, 4 Ohm)?
Here's my train of thought:
If I line them up in series I'll come out to 8 Ohms and they'll be underpowered, but if I line them up in parallel I get 2 Ohms and overpowered... Am I way off? (and I went ahead and got some SPS-100A's for the trunk because now that they'll get some clear sound I might not fade the sound mostly the front anymore
)Thanks!
300w x 1 @ 2 ohms
and 2 RF SVC 4ohm subs that each handle
150w rms
If that is indeed the case, just parallel the subs to achieve a final load of 2ohm DCR. The amp will deliver 300 watts to the whole inductive load and each sub will only have 150 watts on it. (Paralleled and seriesed inductors of the same circuit with the same impeadance will share the power evenly btwn them.)
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From: Texas
Originally Posted by firebirdude
For subwoofers, you ALWAYS want a mono signal. Lemme say that again, ALWAYS. The subwoofers need the EXACT same signal. Although Camtom was not refering to subwoofers, if he was, wire them in series and bridge the amp. Same signal, and same power out of the amp.
Actually its up to the listener. Some bass is in stereo so Im not sure why you "always" have to hook it up in a mono configuration. I have actually had some customers that had me change it becasue their bass was not in stereo.
There is no rule that says that your bass has to be mono all the time. Thats kind of like saying your highs have to be wired mono "ALWAYS".
Thread Starter
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From: Clarksville, TN
Originally Posted by Bumpin' Yota
If im reading what you have posted correctly, you have a RF amp that will do
300w x 1 @ 2 ohms
and 2 RF SVC 4ohm subs that each handle
150w rms
If that is indeed the case, just parallel the subs to achieve a final load of 2ohm DCR. The amp will deliver 300 watts to the whole inductive load and each sub will only have 150 watts on it. (Paralleled and seriesed inductors of the same circuit with the same impeadance will share the power evenly btwn them.)
300w x 1 @ 2 ohms
and 2 RF SVC 4ohm subs that each handle
150w rms
If that is indeed the case, just parallel the subs to achieve a final load of 2ohm DCR. The amp will deliver 300 watts to the whole inductive load and each sub will only have 150 watts on it. (Paralleled and seriesed inductors of the same circuit with the same impeadance will share the power evenly btwn them.)
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Originally Posted by firebirdude
Sorry. Some of this mis-info is making me sick.
For subwoofers, you ALWAYS want a mono signal. Lemme say that again, ALWAYS. The subwoofers need the EXACT same signal. Although Camtom was not refering to subwoofers, if he was, wire them in series and bridge the amp. Same signal, and same power out of the amp.
Again, for sub-bass frequencies, a mono signal should always be used. Have any idea what the ".1" stands for in 6.1? That's right. A subwoofer. Not "left" and "right" subwoofers, but a single subwoofer. Also, keep in mind that a woofer is not a subwoofer. My component set came with 6.5" woofers. They obviously should be played in a stereo format. Subwoofers....mono. Ever heard some call a single channel amp "a mono amp"? Because it only has a single channel or one pair of + and -. And these are only suppose to be for subwoofer purposes only, aren't they? No left and right channels. Just a single mono out.
There you go 2Much! Pretty much everything in there is correct. He really should not be trying to use these 6.5"s as subwoofers. Yes they are labeled subwoofers, but I don't see them reproducing even a 40Hz note very well..... free air none the less. Yes they can give your setup some bottom end, but for subwoofer frequencies, use a sub. Therefore, cross them over higher and play them in stereo. 2k is a little higher then I would have gone, but still good advice 2Much. Skinny's are tires.... and yes they are used for the drag strip.... but not on the rear.
Last edited by Bumpin' Yota; Nov 21, 2004 at 10:58 PM.
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From: Clarksville, TN
Originally Posted by D Rock
Where did you get your RF subs from, I can't find them anywhere online.
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
One of mine came in with a bent lip, but I just bent it back... I figure you can't be too picky since they quit making them about 3 years ago (or so)
good luck!
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Originally Posted by Bumpin' Yota
The rest i agree with, however 6.5s can be made to outbass sealed 15s in the proper box. (very very complex boxes for the 6.5s mind you) If you are up to speed with the sound forums all Ill say is P4S and you'll know what Im talking about.
Ever hear of Nathan Munson? And I was making a general statement. Not really specific to his particular situation. I was refering to this statement by 02Z28:
definitely hook them up in parallel. you should never wire two seperate speakers together in series.
First question: If DVC's were never run in series, why would Polk Audio (among others) have a diagram for it?
And also, check out your sail panels... These aren't in a free-air set up. It's more like a ported box the way the sheetmetal is formed. Plus I've sealed all the leaks from the factory in this area.
Thread Starter
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From: Clarksville, TN
I love hearing people's opinions, it just seems that sometimes people get themselves in a fixed set of what is "right" and don't look at the person's goals
Sorry if I misunderstood your posts and took that out on you...
Sorry if I misunderstood your posts and took that out on you...
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Verdad Gallardo TECH Senior Member
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From: Texas
Originally Posted by Bumpin' Yota
The rest i agree with, however 6.5s can be made to outbass sealed 15s in the proper box. (very very complex boxes for the 6.5s mind you) If you are up to speed with the sound forums all Ill say is P4S and you'll know what Im talking about.
I find this statement hilarious. This is a lot like using the wrong tool for the job but saying its ok to do. Or using a 15 sub to reproduce 25k. A 6.5 inch 'sub' as we call them on this forum has alot of disadvantages that I wont get into. Just think about putting skinnys on the back of your rear wheel drive car. It just doesn’t make since, it wasn’t made for that purpose. And for future reference, the box is no more complicated then a box for a 15. The only goal is to lower the resonate frequency by altering your VAS and trying to raise your QTC as much as you can.
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From: Clarksville, TN
Well, I finally got it finished tonight!!!
It sounds awesome!! I absolutely love it! I'd show some pics but I didn't have a camera with me.
I was really surprised at the subs... they've never sounded like that before, I guess they just needed some good power! They don't hit as low as a 10 or a 12, but it's great for my application (tunes in a street/strip car on money and weight budgets). Mids and highs sound great with the Alpines and the Pioneer. I fiddled with the settings for a little bit while I was driving on the highway (recharging my battery... yeah, oops is right
), very nice features on the Pioneer. I brought the manual down from the parking lot to check out some more features until this weekend. I also installed an antenna up/down switch. I hooked it from the accessory wire to the switch to the antenna wire so if I leave it up and shut off the car it'll go down anyway 
The only thing I didn't get done was the SWIX. I needed to finish up because our auto craft shop was closing. I'll probably get that in next week.
It sounds awesome!! I absolutely love it! I'd show some pics but I didn't have a camera with me.
I was really surprised at the subs... they've never sounded like that before, I guess they just needed some good power! They don't hit as low as a 10 or a 12, but it's great for my application (tunes in a street/strip car on money and weight budgets). Mids and highs sound great with the Alpines and the Pioneer. I fiddled with the settings for a little bit while I was driving on the highway (recharging my battery... yeah, oops is right
), very nice features on the Pioneer. I brought the manual down from the parking lot to check out some more features until this weekend. I also installed an antenna up/down switch. I hooked it from the accessory wire to the switch to the antenna wire so if I leave it up and shut off the car it'll go down anyway The only thing I didn't get done was the SWIX. I needed to finish up because our auto craft shop was closing. I'll probably get that in next week.
