Questions for complete system (long)
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
From: Rockford, IL
Questions for complete system (long) I have read through enough of these threads to determine that I want good consolidated answers for my questions. Apologies for a long read. I'm voicing my thoughts / plan, and hoping for good input.
Today i got it in my head that I want to fully upgrade my sound setup. Although the current Monsoon system serves its function reasonably well, this is something i would like to do all at once, and do it right.
Head Unit
========
I will not be content to mount a single-DIN unit with an adapter. I want to use the space available. Options are very limited for 1.5-DIN units, but i like the idea of doing a 1 + 1/2 DIN. Is this reasonable to do?
Ideally i want a 1-DIN unit with a flipup LCD, capable of DVD or hard drive based Navigation, DVD Video, mp3, and of course standard cd. I do want capability of playing my legally backed up DVD's. Touchscreen optional.
Additionally, i have seen a few 1/2 DIN analog equalizers. My biggest sore spot with removing factory h/u is that i lose that functionality. Would this be relatively easy to hook up in between the aftermarket preamps and my planned amplifier(s)? Does it mount well together with a full DIN head unit? Is there any significant loss of the audible spectrum when flat compared to h/u to amp direct? Loss of performance due to smaller output voltage? Recommended units?
Overall
=======
Overall, after looking at the schematics and design of the Monsoon system, I want to eliminate it entirely. The plan is to change the 10 speaker setup into a 6 point setup + a sub or two, remove the factory amp, replace it with a six channel amp, and run all my own wiring.
Door Speakers
============
I would like to go with a 6.75 inch component system. Although 3 way is neat, i don't want to have speakers sticking out everywhere. Stock kick panels are functional enough for me, although i loved the imaging i had in my old car with tweeters side-mounted on the A pillar. If i replace the speakers in the kick panel, what is the size consideration for the tweeter?
Rear speakers
============
I saw some people placed 6.5 inch subs here (if you can call a 6.5 a sub), and it looked good, but my concern would be muddy sound, and interaction / resonance / pressure against the exterior paneling of the car. Any thoughts here? I am undecided, but my first choice is a 6.75 inch 2way coaxial, for slight imaging of the tweeter (angle). However, if mid-bass will sound significantly more defined, a set of 6.75 components might be the answer. Downside is that i don't want to have to mount tweeters anywhere they can be seen.
Hatch speakers
============
Now the most debated part of my planning. Depending where i read, converting to 6x9's is a foolish idea, or it isn't. To me, buying 4 inch component speakers (such as offered by Focal) doesn't make sense. I am considering that 6x9's will offer significant mid-bass over the 4's, and if i run without a sub, these will be better for the long run. Additionally, 6x9's can be offered as components as well, and i don't mind so much figuring out a flush mount or angle mounted tweeter. I'm not sure if this would offer any increase in quality of imaging or is just over-doing it or what. On the third hand, does it make that much a difference having speakers here at all?
With my speaker choices, i want all one brand, same line (e.g. reference, or whatever), although i'm not positive how it affects real-world results, i want same sensitivity for all speakers (above 90 preferred). I love clean, crisp highs, warm bass, and i want good coloring in the mids. Is this reasonably acheivable with mostly stock positioning?
Amplifier
=======
Converting a 10 speaker monsoon to a 6 point setup, I'm looking for suggestions on an amp that outputs equal power to all channels at 4 ohms. I do not intend on showing this system off; this amp will not be in an easily visible location - functionality is foremost.
Power
======
I have not done my research in this area, but a friend tells me that the stock alternator will not be able to keep up with any 'respectable' system. I am open to suggestions. I am not looking to builid up a high wattage syste (in the thousands), but rather an efficient, quality system.
SUB(S)
======
Honestly, this is one of the hardest areas for me. I loved my old single ported 12 all the way down to its 20hz in my old Probe GT. I want an efficient driver of 90db+ sensitivity, clean booming bass at higher volumes. I don't need to blow my eardrums (single 12 probably fine), but i do need to feel it in the seatback. I don't like punchy quick thumps. The kicker is that i also want to keep my ttops held in place, preferably by factory retention piece in trunk. I'm not crazy about the idea of a sealed stealth box. Also, i'm considering holding off on the sub / sub amp for monetary reasons so that most effort can go into the rest.
ITEMS CONSIDERING:
================
Fully Open To Suggestions
Speakers:
[link="http://www.crutchfield.com/S-5cufmEWuA5R/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=52100&tab=essential_info&i=107DB675 0#Tab"]Polk db6750 6.75 inch components[/link]
[link=http://www.crutchfield.com/S-5cufmEWuA5R/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=52100&I=107DB675"]Polk db675 6.75 2way coaxial[/link]
[link="http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=262"]JL Audio E6450 6channel amp[/link]
I will continue reading and scouring other threads for ideas, and design / feature / spec considerations. The above is obviously nowhere near complete, however i would like to eventually make this into a clean write-up of a full system build. All productive comments are welcomed.
Today i got it in my head that I want to fully upgrade my sound setup. Although the current Monsoon system serves its function reasonably well, this is something i would like to do all at once, and do it right.
Head Unit
========
I will not be content to mount a single-DIN unit with an adapter. I want to use the space available. Options are very limited for 1.5-DIN units, but i like the idea of doing a 1 + 1/2 DIN. Is this reasonable to do?
Ideally i want a 1-DIN unit with a flipup LCD, capable of DVD or hard drive based Navigation, DVD Video, mp3, and of course standard cd. I do want capability of playing my legally backed up DVD's. Touchscreen optional.
Additionally, i have seen a few 1/2 DIN analog equalizers. My biggest sore spot with removing factory h/u is that i lose that functionality. Would this be relatively easy to hook up in between the aftermarket preamps and my planned amplifier(s)? Does it mount well together with a full DIN head unit? Is there any significant loss of the audible spectrum when flat compared to h/u to amp direct? Loss of performance due to smaller output voltage? Recommended units?
Overall
=======
Overall, after looking at the schematics and design of the Monsoon system, I want to eliminate it entirely. The plan is to change the 10 speaker setup into a 6 point setup + a sub or two, remove the factory amp, replace it with a six channel amp, and run all my own wiring.
Door Speakers
============
I would like to go with a 6.75 inch component system. Although 3 way is neat, i don't want to have speakers sticking out everywhere. Stock kick panels are functional enough for me, although i loved the imaging i had in my old car with tweeters side-mounted on the A pillar. If i replace the speakers in the kick panel, what is the size consideration for the tweeter?
Rear speakers
============
I saw some people placed 6.5 inch subs here (if you can call a 6.5 a sub), and it looked good, but my concern would be muddy sound, and interaction / resonance / pressure against the exterior paneling of the car. Any thoughts here? I am undecided, but my first choice is a 6.75 inch 2way coaxial, for slight imaging of the tweeter (angle). However, if mid-bass will sound significantly more defined, a set of 6.75 components might be the answer. Downside is that i don't want to have to mount tweeters anywhere they can be seen.
Hatch speakers
============
Now the most debated part of my planning. Depending where i read, converting to 6x9's is a foolish idea, or it isn't. To me, buying 4 inch component speakers (such as offered by Focal) doesn't make sense. I am considering that 6x9's will offer significant mid-bass over the 4's, and if i run without a sub, these will be better for the long run. Additionally, 6x9's can be offered as components as well, and i don't mind so much figuring out a flush mount or angle mounted tweeter. I'm not sure if this would offer any increase in quality of imaging or is just over-doing it or what. On the third hand, does it make that much a difference having speakers here at all?
With my speaker choices, i want all one brand, same line (e.g. reference, or whatever), although i'm not positive how it affects real-world results, i want same sensitivity for all speakers (above 90 preferred). I love clean, crisp highs, warm bass, and i want good coloring in the mids. Is this reasonably acheivable with mostly stock positioning?
Amplifier
=======
Converting a 10 speaker monsoon to a 6 point setup, I'm looking for suggestions on an amp that outputs equal power to all channels at 4 ohms. I do not intend on showing this system off; this amp will not be in an easily visible location - functionality is foremost.
Power
======
I have not done my research in this area, but a friend tells me that the stock alternator will not be able to keep up with any 'respectable' system. I am open to suggestions. I am not looking to builid up a high wattage syste (in the thousands), but rather an efficient, quality system.
SUB(S)
======
Honestly, this is one of the hardest areas for me. I loved my old single ported 12 all the way down to its 20hz in my old Probe GT. I want an efficient driver of 90db+ sensitivity, clean booming bass at higher volumes. I don't need to blow my eardrums (single 12 probably fine), but i do need to feel it in the seatback. I don't like punchy quick thumps. The kicker is that i also want to keep my ttops held in place, preferably by factory retention piece in trunk. I'm not crazy about the idea of a sealed stealth box. Also, i'm considering holding off on the sub / sub amp for monetary reasons so that most effort can go into the rest.
ITEMS CONSIDERING:
================
Fully Open To Suggestions
Speakers:
[link="http://www.crutchfield.com/S-5cufmEWuA5R/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=52100&tab=essential_info&i=107DB675 0#Tab"]Polk db6750 6.75 inch components[/link]
[link=http://www.crutchfield.com/S-5cufmEWuA5R/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=52100&I=107DB675"]Polk db675 6.75 2way coaxial[/link]
[link="http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=262"]JL Audio E6450 6channel amp[/link]
I will continue reading and scouring other threads for ideas, and design / feature / spec considerations. The above is obviously nowhere near complete, however i would like to eventually make this into a clean write-up of a full system build. All productive comments are welcomed.
Last edited by r00k; Jul 3, 2006 at 11:14 PM.
I'll answer the little bit I know... and TTT for you.
Good luck, hope I could be of a little assistance.
Originally Posted by r00k
Head Unit
========
I will not be content to mount a single-DIN unit with an adapter. I want to use the space available. Options are very limited for 1.5-DIN units, but i like the idea of doing a 1 + 1/2 DIN. Is this reasonable to do?
I've seen it done without much trouble. However, the HUMount.com faceplate looks great if you go with just a single DIN h/u.
Ideally i want a 1-DIN unit with a flipup LCD, capable of DVD or hard drive based Navigation, DVD Video, mp3, and of course standard cd. I do want capability of playing my legally backed up DVD's. Touchscreen optional.
Check out this Kenwood, seems the best Bang for the Buck flipout, and apparently a new one is to be released this month as well. Unless you've got deep pockets, then I'd one up for the Excelon series. http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=16934
Overall
=======
Overall, after looking at the schematics and design of the Monsoon system, I want to eliminate it entirely. The plan is to change the 10 speaker setup into a 6 point setup + a sub or two, remove the factory amp, replace it with a six channel amp, and run all my own wiring.
From what I read pretty frequently, you only need to change the front speakers. I'm swapping mine out with a good set of 6.5 components and an separate amp. The speakers behind you are good for rear fill, but arent necessary. I personally like the front stage sound. But thats your call.
Hatch speakers
============
Now the most debated part of my planning. Depending where i read, converting to 6x9's is a foolish idea, or it isn't. To me, buying 4 inch component speakers (such as offered by Focal) doesn't make sense. I am considering that 6x9's will offer significant mid-bass over the 4's, and if i run without a sub, these will be better for the long run. Additionally, 6x9's can be offered as components as well, and i don't mind so much figuring out a flush mount or angle mounted tweeter. I'm not sure if this would offer any increase in quality of imaging or is just over-doing it or what. On the third hand, does it make that much a difference having speakers here at all?
With my speaker choices, i want all one brand, same line (e.g. reference, or whatever), although i'm not positive how it affects real-world results, i want same sensitivity for all speakers (above 90 preferred). I love clean, crisp highs, warm bass, and i want good coloring in the mids. Is this reasonably acheivable with mostly stock positioning?
I wouldnt add the hatch speakers. It might add rear fill for your passengers in the back but i dont think you'll gain much else, lol. As for keeping the parts all the same brand, I can understand the notion as 90% of my system is alpine amps, subs, h/u. But if you find something that just sounds better, like I listented to the alpine componenet speakers, and well they were nothing special. I took a listen to some Diamond Audio D661a's and omfg I bought them this week. lol So I'd try to go out and listen to the parts your looking for.
Amplifier
=======
Converting a 10 speaker monsoon to a 6 point setup, I'm looking for suggestions on an amp that outputs equal power to all channels at 4 ohms. I do not intend on showing this system off; this amp will not be in an easily visible location - functionality is foremost.
Well as with most of my comments, this is strictly opinion. But I would run a mono amp to power your sub(s) and a multi for your components. *This is what im doing.* But again, totally up to you. I've heard nothing but great things about the mid to high range alpine amps, so I'm running with them. But there are plenty of good amps out there for your purposes, so just do some shopping in your price/power range to match up with your other equip. and read reviews, and search for some real world opinions here and other sites.
Power
======
I have not done my research in this area, but a friend tells me that the stock alternator will not be able to keep up with any 'respectable' system. I am open to suggestions. I am not looking to builid up a high wattage syste (in the thousands), but rather an efficient, quality system.
This is a good question. I didnt plan on adding speakers originally, so folks told me not to worry about the alt or bat or big 3. However, now that I'm getting speakers. It may be something to consider. First you need to figure out your power goals, how much wattage is going to be used for your system and all that jazz. (Atleast im pretty sure thats the case.) And then someone else (not my newbie self) will be able to better answer that question.
SUB(S)
======
Honestly, this is one of the hardest areas for me. I loved my old single ported 12 all the way down to its 20hz in my old Probe GT. I want an efficient driver of 90db+ sensitivity, clean booming bass at higher volumes. I don't need to blow my eardrums (single 12 probably fine), but i do need to feel it in the seatback. I don't like punchy quick thumps. The kicker is that i also want to keep my ttops held in place, preferably by factory retention piece in trunk. I'm not crazy about the idea of a sealed stealth box. Also, i'm considering holding off on the sub / sub amp for monetary reasons so that most effort can go into the rest.
Take a look at Subthump.com for stealth enclosures. As for subs. JL is great if you've got the coin. I'm running with 2 10 Alpine Type-R's, but I also LIKE quick punchy bass, so probably not your type. I'd say JL, and I recently heard a set of 2 12 Diamond Audios which were pretty impressive as well. But for your tastes, sounds like 12's or maybe even a single 15 is the way to go.
ITEMS CONSIDERING:
================
Fully Open To Suggestions
Speakers:
[link="http://www.crutchfield.com/S-5cufmEWuA5R/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=52100&tab=essential_info&i=107DB675 0#Tab"]Polk db6750 6.75 inch components[/link]
[link=http://www.crutchfield.com/S-5cufmEWuA5R/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=52100&I=107DB675"]Polk db675 6.75 2way coaxial[/link]
[link="http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=262"]JL Audio E6450 6channel amp[/link]
I will continue reading and scouring other threads for ideas, and design / feature / spec considerations. The above is obviously nowhere near complete, however i would like to eventually make this into a clean write-up of a full system build. All productive comments are welcomed.
========
I will not be content to mount a single-DIN unit with an adapter. I want to use the space available. Options are very limited for 1.5-DIN units, but i like the idea of doing a 1 + 1/2 DIN. Is this reasonable to do?
I've seen it done without much trouble. However, the HUMount.com faceplate looks great if you go with just a single DIN h/u.
Ideally i want a 1-DIN unit with a flipup LCD, capable of DVD or hard drive based Navigation, DVD Video, mp3, and of course standard cd. I do want capability of playing my legally backed up DVD's. Touchscreen optional.
Check out this Kenwood, seems the best Bang for the Buck flipout, and apparently a new one is to be released this month as well. Unless you've got deep pockets, then I'd one up for the Excelon series. http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=16934
Overall
=======
Overall, after looking at the schematics and design of the Monsoon system, I want to eliminate it entirely. The plan is to change the 10 speaker setup into a 6 point setup + a sub or two, remove the factory amp, replace it with a six channel amp, and run all my own wiring.
From what I read pretty frequently, you only need to change the front speakers. I'm swapping mine out with a good set of 6.5 components and an separate amp. The speakers behind you are good for rear fill, but arent necessary. I personally like the front stage sound. But thats your call.
Hatch speakers
============
Now the most debated part of my planning. Depending where i read, converting to 6x9's is a foolish idea, or it isn't. To me, buying 4 inch component speakers (such as offered by Focal) doesn't make sense. I am considering that 6x9's will offer significant mid-bass over the 4's, and if i run without a sub, these will be better for the long run. Additionally, 6x9's can be offered as components as well, and i don't mind so much figuring out a flush mount or angle mounted tweeter. I'm not sure if this would offer any increase in quality of imaging or is just over-doing it or what. On the third hand, does it make that much a difference having speakers here at all?
With my speaker choices, i want all one brand, same line (e.g. reference, or whatever), although i'm not positive how it affects real-world results, i want same sensitivity for all speakers (above 90 preferred). I love clean, crisp highs, warm bass, and i want good coloring in the mids. Is this reasonably acheivable with mostly stock positioning?
I wouldnt add the hatch speakers. It might add rear fill for your passengers in the back but i dont think you'll gain much else, lol. As for keeping the parts all the same brand, I can understand the notion as 90% of my system is alpine amps, subs, h/u. But if you find something that just sounds better, like I listented to the alpine componenet speakers, and well they were nothing special. I took a listen to some Diamond Audio D661a's and omfg I bought them this week. lol So I'd try to go out and listen to the parts your looking for.
Amplifier
=======
Converting a 10 speaker monsoon to a 6 point setup, I'm looking for suggestions on an amp that outputs equal power to all channels at 4 ohms. I do not intend on showing this system off; this amp will not be in an easily visible location - functionality is foremost.
Well as with most of my comments, this is strictly opinion. But I would run a mono amp to power your sub(s) and a multi for your components. *This is what im doing.* But again, totally up to you. I've heard nothing but great things about the mid to high range alpine amps, so I'm running with them. But there are plenty of good amps out there for your purposes, so just do some shopping in your price/power range to match up with your other equip. and read reviews, and search for some real world opinions here and other sites.
Power
======
I have not done my research in this area, but a friend tells me that the stock alternator will not be able to keep up with any 'respectable' system. I am open to suggestions. I am not looking to builid up a high wattage syste (in the thousands), but rather an efficient, quality system.
This is a good question. I didnt plan on adding speakers originally, so folks told me not to worry about the alt or bat or big 3. However, now that I'm getting speakers. It may be something to consider. First you need to figure out your power goals, how much wattage is going to be used for your system and all that jazz. (Atleast im pretty sure thats the case.) And then someone else (not my newbie self) will be able to better answer that question.
SUB(S)
======
Honestly, this is one of the hardest areas for me. I loved my old single ported 12 all the way down to its 20hz in my old Probe GT. I want an efficient driver of 90db+ sensitivity, clean booming bass at higher volumes. I don't need to blow my eardrums (single 12 probably fine), but i do need to feel it in the seatback. I don't like punchy quick thumps. The kicker is that i also want to keep my ttops held in place, preferably by factory retention piece in trunk. I'm not crazy about the idea of a sealed stealth box. Also, i'm considering holding off on the sub / sub amp for monetary reasons so that most effort can go into the rest.
Take a look at Subthump.com for stealth enclosures. As for subs. JL is great if you've got the coin. I'm running with 2 10 Alpine Type-R's, but I also LIKE quick punchy bass, so probably not your type. I'd say JL, and I recently heard a set of 2 12 Diamond Audios which were pretty impressive as well. But for your tastes, sounds like 12's or maybe even a single 15 is the way to go.
ITEMS CONSIDERING:
================
Fully Open To Suggestions
Speakers:
[link="http://www.crutchfield.com/S-5cufmEWuA5R/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=52100&tab=essential_info&i=107DB675 0#Tab"]Polk db6750 6.75 inch components[/link]
[link=http://www.crutchfield.com/S-5cufmEWuA5R/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=52100&I=107DB675"]Polk db675 6.75 2way coaxial[/link]
[link="http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=262"]JL Audio E6450 6channel amp[/link]
I will continue reading and scouring other threads for ideas, and design / feature / spec considerations. The above is obviously nowhere near complete, however i would like to eventually make this into a clean write-up of a full system build. All productive comments are welcomed.
Well......
Why a 6 channel amp?
Why a 6 point system and a couple subs?
Why are you using middle of the road componants?
I'm running a 4 channel amp, one 10" sub and one pair of door speakers and I'll blow away most systems next to it.
The 4 channel powers the door speakers and the sub. Its putting 200 watts rms into a pair of Diamond audio 600s' and 400watts rms into a Boston Acoustics G5 sub. Eclipse 8445 HU.
The sub hits and moves your hair no problem at all and the Diamonds are crystal clear. You dont need 6 speakers and 2 subs in a fbody. Its just a waste of money IMO.
Also buy all your stuff from ebay stores and you'll save a ton of money. Use the stores not private vendors and you'll be fine.
The stealth box is fine, works great and you cant see it.
Dont try to mimick the Monsoon with its 6 or 8 or 10 speakers setup. Thats was all done to make of for the lack of quality and sound.
Why a 6 channel amp?
Why a 6 point system and a couple subs?
Why are you using middle of the road componants?
I'm running a 4 channel amp, one 10" sub and one pair of door speakers and I'll blow away most systems next to it.
The 4 channel powers the door speakers and the sub. Its putting 200 watts rms into a pair of Diamond audio 600s' and 400watts rms into a Boston Acoustics G5 sub. Eclipse 8445 HU.
The sub hits and moves your hair no problem at all and the Diamonds are crystal clear. You dont need 6 speakers and 2 subs in a fbody. Its just a waste of money IMO.
Also buy all your stuff from ebay stores and you'll save a ton of money. Use the stores not private vendors and you'll be fine.
The stealth box is fine, works great and you cant see it.
Dont try to mimick the Monsoon with its 6 or 8 or 10 speakers setup. Thats was all done to make of for the lack of quality and sound.
Mike's recipe for a system that stomps all over the monsoon (not that it's very hard!).
1 pair nice 2 way components for in the doors.
2 channel amp for components (50 - 100 x 2)
1 nice 10" or 12" sub in rear.
mono amp for sub (500 watts, more if using inefficient sub in super small box).
done!
[optional changes]
if space for 2 amps is not available, replace 2 channel and monoblock with biggest 4 channel amp you can get.
if you prefer rear fill, either run 6 1/2" coaxes off of head unit, or replace 2 channel amp with 4 channel amp.
no need for electrical system upgrade unless you are a bass head and like to keep the system cranked. Even then, I would not put money into the electrical system until after the stereo is done, so you know what issues you need to fix.
mike
1 pair nice 2 way components for in the doors.
2 channel amp for components (50 - 100 x 2)
1 nice 10" or 12" sub in rear.
mono amp for sub (500 watts, more if using inefficient sub in super small box).
done!
[optional changes]
if space for 2 amps is not available, replace 2 channel and monoblock with biggest 4 channel amp you can get.
if you prefer rear fill, either run 6 1/2" coaxes off of head unit, or replace 2 channel amp with 4 channel amp.
no need for electrical system upgrade unless you are a bass head and like to keep the system cranked. Even then, I would not put money into the electrical system until after the stereo is done, so you know what issues you need to fix.
mike
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
From: Rockford, IL
Having had some time to consider possibilities, and gotten slightly overwhelmed at looking at the big picture, I slowed down a little bit and came up with some questions.
Overall, what is the general consensus of opinion on the quality of Kenwood's eXcelon line?
From what i see, i really like the KVT-817DVD. It has an optional navigation unit (KNA-G510) that i can add, which is compatible with the head unit's touch screen. If i decide to subscribe, can get traffic updates and whatnot. Also the unit is upgradeable via SD card. My one big concern is the effects driving might have on the stiffness / longevity of the motorized flip up. Any comments?
For the 1/2 DIN filler, Kenwood has a KGC6042A 11 band eq, capable of orange (actually important to me), that i'm trying to find specifics on.
Looking at the speakers, i enjoyed my eXcelon's in previous car, and would like to go with two sets of KFC-1700P components, and i'm considering just foregoing the hatch speakers. You guys actually really got me thinking about that one. Possibly if i decide later i'm unhappy and still want to add them, i can.
Amplifier i'm still considering the JL Audio e6450. I have found several review sites that give it many praises, and say it tends to output significantly more wattage than rated, and works well above rated SNR. Should allow me quite a few options for powering all planned and future speakers in cabin.
Unfortunately, all the standard retail stores can't offer real-world comparison or demonstration of quality for most of these speakers etc.
Overall, what is the general consensus of opinion on the quality of Kenwood's eXcelon line?
From what i see, i really like the KVT-817DVD. It has an optional navigation unit (KNA-G510) that i can add, which is compatible with the head unit's touch screen. If i decide to subscribe, can get traffic updates and whatnot. Also the unit is upgradeable via SD card. My one big concern is the effects driving might have on the stiffness / longevity of the motorized flip up. Any comments?
For the 1/2 DIN filler, Kenwood has a KGC6042A 11 band eq, capable of orange (actually important to me), that i'm trying to find specifics on.
Looking at the speakers, i enjoyed my eXcelon's in previous car, and would like to go with two sets of KFC-1700P components, and i'm considering just foregoing the hatch speakers. You guys actually really got me thinking about that one. Possibly if i decide later i'm unhappy and still want to add them, i can.
Amplifier i'm still considering the JL Audio e6450. I have found several review sites that give it many praises, and say it tends to output significantly more wattage than rated, and works well above rated SNR. Should allow me quite a few options for powering all planned and future speakers in cabin.
Unfortunately, all the standard retail stores can't offer real-world comparison or demonstration of quality for most of these speakers etc.
