Archdog7564

i am wanting to play my music on my system without my engine on for a long peroid of time,,, like an hr or so...

i have a red top optima battery with about 900 cranking amps and then 4 guage wire to the back, and a Monster Cable 1 Farad Digicap

then i have two amps: 350x1 (class D amp), 100x4 amp and two 10" MTX 6000 subs,,, my amps are MTX

if i get another battery? do i have to change the alternator too? becuase doesn't need to be aleast of 150 amps instead of a stock one that may have about 110 or so.

give me some input if i need to do anything


thanks

richieg

iTrader: (1)

not at all, remeber gm trucks run the same alt. as f-body's and a second battry is a factory option. Anyhow, I had a second battery on my 98 ta on the stock alt. no problems.

Archdog7564

whats all needed for a second battery?

thanks for your replies

richieg

iTrader: (1)

I put my battery in rear driver side, where a factory cd changer would be installed. I had 0 gauge wire coming from the front battery to the back battery. I drilled a hole behind the back battery and ran a 0 gauge ground wire and screwed it to the (frame). I had 2 120 amp breakers at both ends of the power wire running from the front battery to the back one. So actual hardware list. . .
roughly 12 feet 0 gauge power wire
2 feet 0 gauge ground wire
2 120 amp breakers
4 0 gauge battery terminals
1 flat head ground terminal
I used the brand stinger, but it really doesn't matter what brand you use, it's all the same. you can find all of these parts at the local car audio shop. good luck

Johnny

The last guy forgot one important part. A battery relay. Stick with the stinger breakers if you do breakers any other breaker I've every installed except for the stingers have been a piece of crap. Unless you find a cheaper one that looks "exactly" like the stinger as far as shape of housing and everything else. (phoenix gold used to have a knockoff that looked like the stinger and worked as good) The reason you need the relay is it seperates the 2 batteries when the car is off. That way you can run the back battery completely dead and the car will still crank.(also be sure to wire the relay trigger to a true ignition wire) Without it you will be killing both batterys at the same time and if you listen to long you'll be beggin for a jump. Once again i've always used stinger battery relays for the most part but i've had good luck with cheaper ones too. just try to get one with proper amperage. A good 200amp relay shouldn't cost more than around $60 or $70 bucks.