Alternate battery disc. questions
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Teching In
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 27
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Alternate battery disc. questions Hey guys-
In regards to a NHRA legal master shut off switch.
Im using a setup that is similar to the one shown here
http://www.ws6.com/batt-relocate.htm
Im adding a flaming river 4 post switch into the setup. I DONT want to run a second heavy gauge high amp wire from the alt back.
Seeing as the switch has 4 posts, and 2 will hold the battery line , does anyone see why I cant hook up the other two posts in series with the one wire in the weather pack connector on the back of the alt? This way I would only be running a small wire to the back of the car. Seems alot safer that way.
I did test this theory out last night. Since i havnt relocated the battery just yet(in the parts gathering phase) i temporarly hooked my yellow top up in the stock location. I started the car and let it warm up, then disconnected the battery while it was still running. As we all know, this wont do anything to the car and the motor will continue running as long as the alt is still turning.
As it was running and being careful not to tap the positve cable against the frame, i reached behind the alt and unplugged the 1 wire weather pack connector (NOT the powerstud wire) and the car died. This is the result I was hoping for.
Does anyone see why I wouldnt be able to just switch the main battery feed at the battery, AND just splice into the weather pack connector wire and run that back and forth from the switch? Again it is a 4 post switch so the two sets of wire would never meet. I think this would work just fine, im just asking on here because another opinion is always helpful, incase im missing something.
If not, has anyone thought of anything else to disconnect instead of running the heavy alt wire back? I was thinking perhaps the power feed to the fuel pump, or perhaps even the 12v feed to the pcm? (Dont really like the second idea to much)
Also while on the same topic, has anyone ever used anything like this?
http://www.americanautowire.com/products/
"The Remote Lifeline enables users of a Remote Mounted Master Disconnect Switch to retain a small amount of power for memory circuits common in fuel injection computers, radio presets and clocks. The Lifeline is "self resetting" eliminating the need to replace a fuse when the user tries to start the vehicle before first switching the Master Disconnect to on. The Lifeline will reset when the electrical load is significantly reduced or if the Master Disconnect Switch has been turned to the on position."
Seems like a good idea..
Also, in terms of fuses, what type/amp fuses are you guys running at the battery? I was thinking a 200-250 amp ANL fuse..?
Thanks alot for reading through my long post, hoping to get this part of the project tied up soon!
Thanks
Joe
In regards to a NHRA legal master shut off switch.
Im using a setup that is similar to the one shown here
http://www.ws6.com/batt-relocate.htm
Im adding a flaming river 4 post switch into the setup. I DONT want to run a second heavy gauge high amp wire from the alt back.
Seeing as the switch has 4 posts, and 2 will hold the battery line , does anyone see why I cant hook up the other two posts in series with the one wire in the weather pack connector on the back of the alt? This way I would only be running a small wire to the back of the car. Seems alot safer that way.
I did test this theory out last night. Since i havnt relocated the battery just yet(in the parts gathering phase) i temporarly hooked my yellow top up in the stock location. I started the car and let it warm up, then disconnected the battery while it was still running. As we all know, this wont do anything to the car and the motor will continue running as long as the alt is still turning.
As it was running and being careful not to tap the positve cable against the frame, i reached behind the alt and unplugged the 1 wire weather pack connector (NOT the powerstud wire) and the car died. This is the result I was hoping for.
Does anyone see why I wouldnt be able to just switch the main battery feed at the battery, AND just splice into the weather pack connector wire and run that back and forth from the switch? Again it is a 4 post switch so the two sets of wire would never meet. I think this would work just fine, im just asking on here because another opinion is always helpful, incase im missing something.
If not, has anyone thought of anything else to disconnect instead of running the heavy alt wire back? I was thinking perhaps the power feed to the fuel pump, or perhaps even the 12v feed to the pcm? (Dont really like the second idea to much)
Also while on the same topic, has anyone ever used anything like this?
http://www.americanautowire.com/products/
"The Remote Lifeline enables users of a Remote Mounted Master Disconnect Switch to retain a small amount of power for memory circuits common in fuel injection computers, radio presets and clocks. The Lifeline is "self resetting" eliminating the need to replace a fuse when the user tries to start the vehicle before first switching the Master Disconnect to on. The Lifeline will reset when the electrical load is significantly reduced or if the Master Disconnect Switch has been turned to the on position."
Seems like a good idea..
Also, in terms of fuses, what type/amp fuses are you guys running at the battery? I was thinking a 200-250 amp ANL fuse..?
Thanks alot for reading through my long post, hoping to get this part of the project tied up soon!
Thanks
Joe
Figured the electrical board would be the place to post
