ok so i have been really involved with my car audio lately and i want to get a stealth box with one 10" sub. i am not going fo ear drumb blowing bass, just some more BUMP not much but enough to were peaople know i got somthing, and i amd proable going to buy jl sub and amp now here are the questions

_question_

-if you buy a sub and amp will any amp work with the sub, ex: does the watts of the amp have to match the watts of the sub so it wont blow the sub, and also with the ohms do the ohms have to match and the channels of the amp what do those mean?


sorry if this is a stupid question just wanted to know so a local car audio place dosnt screw me over, like they have done in the past this time i want to know what im talking about and i will prbaly not buy anythign from them just have them do the install

 

What you should is mach the RMS on both, speaker and amp. The JL Audio stealth Specifications are 300rms @ 4ohms, so u should go with an amp that meets 300rms @ 4omhs and i also recommend that you get a amp with 25-50wath above the 300rms so that you can push that woofer to it 300rms constant. The reason being that when the amps rating is given they tend to give its RMS rating at 14.4volts constant and most of the time the car tend to run 13volt when ON and 12V when OFF. And the other reason that I suggest with go with a 325-350W amp, is that you can rise the bass on those songs that then to have very low bass.

 

if ur going to get a sub is doesnt matter how much power the amp has as long as the amp has equal to or more power than the sub needs, u can have a 1000 watt amp for a 400 watt rms sub, the amps power isnt usually the rms power unless its a jl amp. The jl 500/1 amp is 500 watts rms at 1.5-4 ohms, same with the 1000/1 jl amp. U just have to watch how u set the gains on the amp so that there isnt too much power going to that single sub. if your not going to go for too much bass, go with the new JL 10w3v3 and a JL 500/1 amp, you will have great sound quality and if its in a sealed box it wont take up much room at all. U will have some thump but def. not ear drum blowing. Thats the setup i would go, the amp retails for 549 but u can get them on ebay for around 300. the sub is going to be around 165 plus shipping on ebay. Just my two cents!

 

I went with an ED K Series Sub and a Vantage Stealthbox from KustomZ28 (SShevy)











Sounds great and looks like a factory piece

It's a 4ohm DVC sub with a 300w RMS rating, so it was perfect for my Alpine MRV100, which puts out 300w @ 2ohms







Rick


Aztek T/A WS7 & 70 RAM AIR IV T/A
Moderator @ LS2, FAST LS1, FUELSLUT,
The F-Body Hideout, LS1Turd & ChopperForums

 

Alot of these things do matter, but only to a certain extent. Be sure to be aware of RMS wattage and Peak Power Wattage of your subwoofer and more importantly your amplifier. There is no need to match brands although some people may disagree. Any brand amp will work with any brand sub as long as the power specifications are comprable.

For example: JL makes a 10" sub that is 4 ohm steady and handles 150 watts RMS and up to somwhere around 300 watts I would guess. The model number for this sub is 10W1v2-4. For this sub any amplifier with a power rating between 150 watts and 250 watts will do. Keep in mind you can use a 2 channel amp. and run it to one sub by bridging it, but this will cut the ohm rating in half (from 4ohms to 2ohms). When speaking of channels (mono) means 1 chanel and can be run to only one speaker (unless run in parallell which doesnt matter since you only want one sub, but write back if you want two and I will explain). Two chanels implies a stereo output where two midrange or component speakes could be hooked up. In your case, as stated above, you can use a 2 chane amp (bridged) and run it to one sub. (In my experience this is nice because if at a later date you want to upgrade your subs you can use this amp to run to your components, and you will want to upgrade your components). Your amplifier will have instructions on bridging the chanels.

The main thing to remember is that an underpowered sub will be blown just as quick as an over-powered sub. Get as close as you can with the actual power handling of the subwoofer to the actual power output of the amp. But don't worry about matching brands. It will only end up costing you more money delivering nothing better as far as sound is concerned (the subwoofer doesnt know what it is being powered by). I hope this has helped if you need more help just write. I have tried to include a diagram but I dont know if it uploaded)