Autometer Gauges
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Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2006
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Autometer Gauges For anyone that has installed gauges, particularly Autometer gauges that have a red wire for the 12V connection, a white wire 12V to connect to dash and the black negative, have you either forgotten or purposely not added a 1 amp fuse to the red wire connections as recommended? I forgot to add the fuse on the red wire and the gauges were working with a temporary ground but after I hooked up the permanent ground they quit working. Is it possible in that short test run the 12V source damaged the gauges?
I have (5) AM Ultra-Lite Gages - never added an additional fuse to the power wire - don't even remember that being in the instructions.
They've all been working fine for 3 years now...
If the gage power wire is sliced into an existing 12v circuit that is already protected by a fuse, why would you need to add yet another?
The purpose of a fuse in most cases is to protect the wire that they are tied into from over current. Installing more than one fuse on a line does not regulate the amount of voltage that can pass thru the wire. Fuses do not act like 'valves' in a water system. The gages should operate on a voltage range (e.g. 12-14v or so) is your alternator putting out more voltage than the reccommended voltage range of the gages?
They've all been working fine for 3 years now...
If the gage power wire is sliced into an existing 12v circuit that is already protected by a fuse, why would you need to add yet another?
The purpose of a fuse in most cases is to protect the wire that they are tied into from over current. Installing more than one fuse on a line does not regulate the amount of voltage that can pass thru the wire. Fuses do not act like 'valves' in a water system. The gages should operate on a voltage range (e.g. 12-14v or so) is your alternator putting out more voltage than the reccommended voltage range of the gages?
Last edited by 1QUIKWS6; Mar 16, 2007 at 05:32 AM.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 344
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Originally Posted by 1QUIKWS6
If the gage power wire is sliced into an existing 12v circuit that is already protected by a fuse, why would you need to add yet another?
Originally Posted by _JB_
I've never added a fuse, I've run the wires through the fuse pannel so if something shorted out it would blow the fuse.
Originally Posted by 1QUIKWS6
Fuses do not act like 'valves' in a water system. The gages should operate on a voltage range (e.g. 12-14v or so) is your alternator putting out more voltage than the reccommended voltage range of the gages?
I got a small fuse block from autozone. It holds 6 ATO fuses, and has a central power hook up lug. A guy at autometer recommended that I put fuses on the gauges, so I took his advice. I spent a lot of money on gauges and I figured Ide protect them. I think I used 3amp fuses for each gauge.
It also made it easy for me just run one bigger gauge power wire to the fuse block, then just single wires down to each circuit.
Justin
It also made it easy for me just run one bigger gauge power wire to the fuse block, then just single wires down to each circuit.
Justin
So, I'm looking to install 2 Autometer gauges soon, so what would be the best way to wire it? Obviously the empty IGN slot on the fuse block, but would I just run two fused 18 gauge wires into that one slot? Or could I fuse each gauge, the run those together into one wire to go into the slot. Kinda like a Y.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 344
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
You can do it like a 'Y' but you should use 16 gauge wire for the common section. The IGN port in the fuse box is protected by a 15 amp fuse so 18-gauge might be a little too small.
What I did was run 14-gauge wire from each of the IGN, ACCY, and BATT ports on the fuse panel to fuse/junction blocks in a more convenient location under the dash behind the console. That way, whenever I need to wire up an accessory I have power easily available and can put the appropriate fuse in the fuse/junction block. Those fuse blocks are just a couple of dollars at any auto parts store.
What I did was run 14-gauge wire from each of the IGN, ACCY, and BATT ports on the fuse panel to fuse/junction blocks in a more convenient location under the dash behind the console. That way, whenever I need to wire up an accessory I have power easily available and can put the appropriate fuse in the fuse/junction block. Those fuse blocks are just a couple of dollars at any auto parts store.
