Steps on How to Run 2 Batteries Off of 1 Alternator?

DEFINITELY use a battery isolator instead of wiring the batteries in parallel - if you really want them in parallel as one load though for whatever reason, buy 2 new batteries that are identical to one another in every way possible.
--Either way though, if you want plan on killing the battery a lot with the car off and that's your reasoning, go with a good deep cycle battery and skip the second battery (or even if you do get the second battery, the reason you are doing so I would assume is to run it down so you could still benefit from a deep cycle batt.).
Last edited by cooltc2004; Apr 2, 2007 at 06:17 PM.
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The reason for using 2 of the same battery's is to keep the resistance differences to a minimum to help with equal charging.
http://www.bcae1.com/battiso.htm
Last edited by Richiec77; Apr 3, 2007 at 05:17 AM.
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The isolator doesn't allow each battery to "see" each other so the risk of discharging wont happen.
I use to compete on the highest level of spl competion and at one time had 7 batteries all ran parrallel. This was the best for what I needed to accomplish.
I think you could get better information if we knew a little more about what you are trying to accomplish.
Regardless of how often this happens, I wouldn't take the chance.
For sure!!! Just not worth the chance.
Regardless of how often this happens, I wouldn't take the chance.
15 years, I've never seen one catch on fire using two new identical batteries and a fuse between them.
15 years, I've never seen one catch on fire using two new identical batteries and a fuse between them.

The only issue you will have is running two different batteries in this case or one new battery and an old one. That's the only way they will ever try to cancel each other out.
The fuse is to prevent a spike or surge.
The only reason for an isolater is to keep the electrical system seperate.
I have seen it for years and never has ever been an issue with a proper setup. BTW, an isolater wil drop you up to .5 volts. So those looking for a dual setup for a car audio should consider not using one.
The only issue you will have is running two different batteries in this case or one new battery and an old one. That's the only way they will ever try to cancel each other out.
The fuse is to prevent a spike or surge.
The only reason for an isolater is to keep the electrical system seperate.
I have seen it for years and never has ever been an issue with a proper setup. BTW, an isolater wil drop you up to .5 volts. So those looking for a dual setup for a car audio should consider not using one.

In my competition car I didn't even run fuses, so I didn't kill a run due to a fuse that went bad. This isn't recommended but if you plan your system right some things you just dont need. Of course it helps when your sponsored and you dont care if you burn up an amp or 16 amps
I use two batteries as I do not want to drain the car battery when I am out on the beach, in a park or wherever as the battery in the rear is used and only drains when the ignition is off. Thus the main battery is always ready to start the car at any time... I also use a Jacobs electronics 1500 accuvolt that ensures my amps are getting a continuous 13 to 16 volts (depending where I set it at) as my amps draw a great deal of power... If you compete or have a very good ear and want clear crisp sound, the amps require coninuous power without power drops during high bass sections of a song (keeps you SPL and sound wave where they need to be)...



