Input on stereo system upgrade
05-01-2007, 12:17 PM
#41
Originally Posted by Dave1970
How much sound deading material is needed for our Fbodies? Where's a good place to buy the material?
I did a few things. I use Second Skin liquid dampener. Then Raamatt from Raamaudio (butyl matting), the guy lived a few miles from my house at the time and I got a sweet deal. And ensolite foam from him as well. Each material blocks a different frequency.
There are some who will say Dynamatt extreme is the only way to go. Its really good stuff no doubt about it but it is very expensive as well. I acheived great results doing what I did but there is no way to duplicate the cost. It was all luck due to the raamat guy living where he did. I helped him unload a truck of the stuff and he was nice and sold to me for below anything anyone could ever imagine. The answer to your next question is also based on cost.
How much does it take? All depends on how much you have to spend. You dont have to do any. You could just do the immediate area behind the speaker or you could do what I did. It's entirely based on cost. Its sold by the sq ft.
Shop, shop , shop is the only way to save money and get your best deal. Maybe ebay, or go to the website of the MFG and look for a list of vendors and see if there is one in your area to save money on shipping. Butyl matting is heavy and the cost of shipping can hurt.
05-01-2007, 04:58 PM
#43
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Thanks for the info everyone. Should start putting together a component shopping list together later this week. After finding the alpines in the sail panels, I'm curious to see what I'll find in the door panels.
05-07-2007, 02:36 AM
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What's the advantage of the multiple channel amps? I've started researching components based off one of the estimates. The Hertz line of speakers are from Italy. Couldn't locate a US online distributor for them. When comparing JL audio 10" subs, what's the difference between the 10W3V3-4 (600Watt-4ohm) vs. 10W3V2-D4(300Watt-4ohm) subs? Working up a system based on the Infinity line of speakers.
05-12-2007, 08:31 AM
#46
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Here's what I found in the doors. The tweeter looks to be the stock tweeter to me and a Kenwood 6 1/4". Odd very odd since there were Apines in the sail panels.
05-12-2007, 09:54 AM
#47
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Just fyi... I am paying $70 for complete stereo install. Only difference is I am not getting a sub/2nd amp installed.
You ever look into the Rainbow lineup for speakers? I have their Germaniums going in tomorrow... only fronts as well. If you're at all interested... PM me and i'll let you know how they sound.
You ever look into the Rainbow lineup for speakers? I have their Germaniums going in tomorrow... only fronts as well. If you're at all interested... PM me and i'll let you know how they sound.
05-12-2007, 04:50 PM
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Can I unplug and remove the monsoon amp without affecting anything? I noticed that the power antenna plug is part of that harness. Is there a way to tell if the front and sail panel speakers are powered by just the head unit or going through the monsoon amp? Thanks everyone for the help.
05-12-2007, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 99blancoSS
top of the line stuff as well as a few others from Germany. price range was to steep for me. I went with Diamond Hex series instead. Rainbow is going to be 5-600 minimum last I looked for a pair.
05-12-2007, 07:30 PM
#53
Originally Posted by 99blancoSS
top of the line stuff as well as a few others from Germany. price range was to steep for me. I went with Diamond Hex series instead. Rainbow is going to be 5-600 minimum last I looked for a pair.
SLC line is slightly over $200. The SLX line is even cheaper than that.
05-13-2007, 11:37 AM
#54
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I removed the tweeter cover and found Kenwood tweeters sitting on the stock bracket. For some odd reason, the driver's side tweeter had some black sticky stuff around it and the mounting hole. Reminds me of a pliable type of high voltage electrical tape.
Can the inner door splash shield be purchased or is it easy to make? I'm assuming it's a water barrier. The passenger side has a clear plastic between the door and door panel held in place by a tacky pliable substance.
Can the inner door splash shield be purchased or is it easy to make? I'm assuming it's a water barrier. The passenger side has a clear plastic between the door and door panel held in place by a tacky pliable substance.
05-17-2007, 04:32 AM
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I've decided on using Infinity Kappa series for the doors and rear sail panels.
Doors: Infinity Kappa 60.7cs, 6 1/2" - 6 3/4", 2 ohm, power range: 2-90 Watts RMS (270W peak). 2-way component system w/ 1" M M D dome tweeters.
Rear sail panels: Infinity Kappa 652.7i, 6 3/4", 2 ohm, power range: 2-75 Watts RMS, (225 W peak).
My head unit puts out 70 RMS for speakers.
What type of amp requirements would be good for the front and rear sail panel speakers? From other threads, I'm leaning to an amp range of 100 Watt RMS, 4-channel, leave the tweeters to be powered from the HU.
I intend on using two 10" subs in the power range of 200 -300 Watt w/ a subthump t-top enclosure. I leaning towards the JL audio line of subs. What are some considerations for the amp needed for the subs? Thanks for the input here and from other threads.
Doors: Infinity Kappa 60.7cs, 6 1/2" - 6 3/4", 2 ohm, power range: 2-90 Watts RMS (270W peak). 2-way component system w/ 1" M M D dome tweeters.
Rear sail panels: Infinity Kappa 652.7i, 6 3/4", 2 ohm, power range: 2-75 Watts RMS, (225 W peak).
My head unit puts out 70 RMS for speakers.
What type of amp requirements would be good for the front and rear sail panel speakers? From other threads, I'm leaning to an amp range of 100 Watt RMS, 4-channel, leave the tweeters to be powered from the HU.
I intend on using two 10" subs in the power range of 200 -300 Watt w/ a subthump t-top enclosure. I leaning towards the JL audio line of subs. What are some considerations for the amp needed for the subs? Thanks for the input here and from other threads.
05-17-2007, 08:28 AM
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yikes, you must really be trying to do a budget install....
ditch the 2 ways in the sail panels and run a -decent- dedicated midbass bandpassed for midbass frequencies. run your separates off the front channels of your 4 channel amp, including your tweets. The comps will come with a crossover, therefore running the tweets off the head unit is not necessary.
ditch the 2 ways in the sail panels and run a -decent- dedicated midbass bandpassed for midbass frequencies. run your separates off the front channels of your 4 channel amp, including your tweets. The comps will come with a crossover, therefore running the tweets off the head unit is not necessary.
05-17-2007, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by dragonrage
Infinity for the lose :/
05-17-2007, 07:29 PM
#59
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They're so bright they practically make my ears bleed, and I'm not nearly the only one. I'm also not thrilled by the bass from them. If I wanted cheap and popular speakers, I'd take Alpine over Infinity (though I'm not a huge fan of Alpine speakers, either).
