Anyone Know Bose Specs??
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Teching In
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Anyone Know Bose Specs?? Hi all, I'm new to the forum, and have a 1996 WS6 T/A. I can't for the life of me find what the impedence is for the stock front door speakers with the 10-speaker Bose premium sound package. I've read it is 1 ohm, 2 ohm, 4 ohm, etc. This is not a Monsoon system. I am trying to find out if I can simply swap my door speakers for component speakers and hook up a 2-channel amp to them with the rest of the stock system untouched. If anyone could help me with this, I would greatly appreciate it! 
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
It's also not a Bose system - Firebirds weren't available with Bose. The 10-speaker premium sound system before the Monsoon was basically the same as the Monsoon although the amp was smaller and mounted in a different location. You should have component 2-ohm mids and 4-ohm tweeters in the doors but it doesn't matter if you plan to replace them and amp them separately. You'll have to rewire because the tweeters currently run off the head unit while the mids run off the amp.
Basically, your upgrade options are the same as with a Monsoon system although your amp isn't as strong so you might want to upgrade it sooner (we often recommend leaving the Monsoon amp as the last piece to upgrade).
Basically, your upgrade options are the same as with a Monsoon system although your amp isn't as strong so you might want to upgrade it sooner (we often recommend leaving the Monsoon amp as the last piece to upgrade).
Thread Starter
Teching In
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Thanks for the info. Does this mean I can run 4 ohm Infinity Reference component speakers in the doors with a new amp powering just them and leave the entire rest of the system stock? How would I wire this?(Leaving the tweeters powered by the stock head unit but the speakers powered by the new amp). Should I bypass the stock amp?
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Actually, you could install aftermarket 4-ohm speakers in the doors without adding an amp or rewiring. Decent aftermarket speakers are so much more efficient than the stock ones that they will work fine with very little (if any) loss of volume.
However, if you add your own amp then you can run whatever speakers the amp will support. No need to bypass the factory amp - just remove the factory speakers in the doors and leave the factory speaker wires disconnected then run your own speaker wires from the new amp.
However, if you add your own amp then you can run whatever speakers the amp will support. No need to bypass the factory amp - just remove the factory speakers in the doors and leave the factory speaker wires disconnected then run your own speaker wires from the new amp.
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Teching In
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Alright, if I want to run an amp with the new speakers would I disconnect the speaker wires from the stock speakers and re-attach them to the amp, and then run new wires from the amp to the speakers? I'm debating about whether or not I should just install the speakers or use an amp too. Thanks for the help, I'm new to the stereo-related stuff.
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
I don't think I understand what you're trying to do. If you are installing new aftermarket speakers in the door to replace the stock speakers and you plan to run a separate amp for the new speakers then you will disconnect the factory wires from the original speakers, tape them up because they won't be used anymore, install your new amp, run new wires from the amp to the doors, install your new speakers, and connect the new speakers to your new wires. Way more trouble than necessary for just replacing door speakers but it's your car and your money.
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Teching In
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Yeah I realized that. I plan on just replacing speakers at this point. Then later on I will do a head unit, 4-channel amp, and 8-guage wiring all at once. Thanks for the help, now I'm not wasting time and money! 
