wtf.. id never get rid of my rear seats to put some subs in. you always can stick one in that cubby hole in the trunk.. but whatever ur car. it sure wont make it sell for more one day

 

you cant put 2 18"s in the cubby hole.haha

 

Ok how many times a day does someone ride in your backseats? In a week? In a month? How bout a year? See no one, and I mean NO ONE, ever rides in my back seats, so why not do as I see fit. Plus you do not get as good of a sound from that cubby hole in the back. I am never going to sell my car, but in the event that I might, its really, really, really easy to reinstall the back seats. So how bout you ....

 

alright well I was supposed to be done tonight, but had some other stuff come up last minute. I did however get the sub working, sounds amazing and the shelf is carpeted and ready for install. It should take about another hours worth of work but work is early and I am tired. Ill let yall have the full breadth of pictures tomorrow.

 

cant wait

 

me either.

 

Ok well I finally finished the project up. I think it personally looks awesome. It really cleans up the back. I still need to take it and vacuum it off, its got a lot dust a debris from all the work. But here are the finalized pictures.

Here is just the seat delete. I chose to go with black carpet to break up the tan monotony that would have taken over in the back of the car:



Of course there is the UT emblem for effect.

And now for the measurements. It really takes a lot cardboard. I know I mentioned that earlier, but cardboard for this project is your best friend. I measured every angle then cut everything out with cardboard. Before I cut wood I always cut cardboard to get it matched up perfectly. I dont know if every car matches up identically but here are my measurements.

I used 3/4 in MDF for everything except the rear brace. For the rear brace I used a 2x4. The MDF was used for weight reduction.

For the front brace that goes over the driveshaft hump: It is 54in. x 7.75in.
In the middle over the hump it is only 3.75in. tall.
You can choose how high you want it to go, I personally thought it would look better sitting a little shorter. I used cardboard to get the point over the hump just right.

For the rear brace, which is shown in a few of the earlier pictures, it is 34in long. I used a piece of 2x4 for this, I hacked off about an inch off the top. I then used a flat piece of wood, to span the two braces, and a level to get the correct height so it would be level with the front brace. This basically spans from one seat back bracket to the other. I notched a piece about 2 in. x 2 in. out of the top corners. I then drilled a hole in the notch about the size of the seat bracket. I then used bolts, lockwashers and locknuts to hold this in place. I didnt want it rattling free from any vibration. A little locktite was also used.

For the top shelf at its longest point is 54in to match up with the front brace board. At its shortest point it is 34in.
From the middle of the shelf to the back it is 20in.

The top shelf was the hardest and where cardboard really came in handy. I found the biggest piece of cardboard I could find and pretty much just traced around the angles of the rear armrests and the different angles to get it perfect. I then took the cardboard and traced out the pattern on the MDF. A saber saw, or jig saw, was used to then cut out the top shelf. To smooth out the edges I used a belt sander.

I found the carpet I used at a local cloth shop. I think it was $4 for two yards of stuff. I used some stuff by 3m called cloth cement to hold the carpet on. I also stapled it down just to hold it in place.

Spray paint and a stencil was used for the Longhorn emblem. Make sure and get the right kind of spray paint so it doesnt run.

Thats about all I can think of right now. If yall have any questions feel free to fire away. Once it gets cleaned up and vacuumed I will get some really detailed pics up.

Thanks for looking.

 

Looks really good. Nice job. I'm still a little unclear about where you mounted the front board. To the bracket that the seats get bolted to? Also the rear support that holds the top shelf. I'm trying to picture where thats bolted to but cant.

 

That looks badass man. I like how you used the black instead of the tan. The black matches the center console, and looks really good(to me). I think here in the next week or two, I'm gonna start on mine, you measurements help a lot dude, thanks man.

 

These pictures might help you out. The front brace, the one nearest the center console, is held in by two 2x4s. The 2x4s are just bolted on to the seat bottom brackets that are underneath the seat bottoms. I then screwed the front brace onto these 2x4s. In the second pic you can see where I was getting ready to screw them into place.

The rear brace is hard to get in your mind until you remove the seat backs. There is a bracket that holds the seatbacks into place. I then notched the brace at the corners, drilled a hole in it, and then bolted it right up. If you look close enough in the first pic you can see at the two ends of the board where it has been notched out and drilled through. You can also see the bolt sticking up through there.

Hope this helps you out.

 

Thanks for the compliment. I was back and forth a thousand times which color to go with. I finally decided to go with black so it didnt look so washed out in the back. Let me know if you need any other pictures or measurements, Ill try and help ya out in whatever way possible

 

How much space do you have between the very front of the box, and the center console? Could you go any farther with it, or will the seat hit it?

 

where did you mount your subs and your amp?

 

There is probably 6 in. in between the box and the console. I didnt want to go any further then that because there would have been a gap to fill in between the door frame and the front brace. It could have been fabricated, but I wanted to make it as simple as possible.


The amp is mounted underneath the top shelf. The sub is in a box that sets on top of the shelf. I was originally planning on putting it in the shelf, but it sounded HORRIBLE. Real echo-y and not tight at all. It was muddled and just horrible. I decided to build a box to sit on top that is built for the cabin size. That way its not overpowering but its not too light. Plus with the area its in, it gives the best sound length possible. With everything that I have read the longer you can make the sound waves travel, the better it sounds in the car. I will get some pics of the box on the shelf once its totally assembled.

 

[QUOTE=Texass683]There is probably 6 in. in between the box and the console. I didnt want to go any further then that because there would have been a gap to fill in between the door frame and the front brace. It could have been fabricated, but I wanted to make it as simple as possible.

Ooooh, yeah. I didn't think about that. Thanks again man for the help, if I've got any more questions I'll be back haha.

 

Just to clarify, you can get excellent sound from that cubby hole in the back. It's all about match the box and the driver, no matter where the box is located.

 

Wow this looks great. It's helping me figure out how i'm going to do mine. I've been talking to Jasonww on mp3car. Do you have any picture of how it meets the door jam? Also what did you do about your bolt locations that were for the seats? Did you ever get pictures of your sub box?

 

Dude that looks freaking awesome!!!! Just a few questions, did it have to be that high? I'm not knocking on your setup but If I did it I would want to make it sit a little lower. Also, about how much does that thing weigh?

I'm going to build one so I can mount two bottles on it right behind my seat and then have a cubby hole underneath it for my....um..... .40!

 

it has to be that high if you want a solid mounting point ie.(the rear seat bolts). otherwise you cant mount the rear of the enclosure to anything solid.

 

anyway to get those pics back up?