Anyone make subwoofer boxes?
Anyone make subwoofer boxes? I'm thinking about making a subwoofer box for my brother's truck. I just don't know how hard it is since I have never done this before. BTW this will be going in a 1998 Dodge Dakota club cab with the back seat already removed. The subs being used are 2 12" JL Audio W3v2 D2's being pushed with a 1600 watt Diesel Audio amp.
I know the boxes have to be tuned depending on air space and all that but how do you get those calculations? Or is it too hard for an amateur like me? I've always been good in math so I figure I can do it. The only reason I want to do it is because the shops around me want to charge $250 and up for a basic box! Also he wants it to be a ported box and I know that requires some more calculations so any help on that too.
I know the boxes have to be tuned depending on air space and all that but how do you get those calculations? Or is it too hard for an amateur like me? I've always been good in math so I figure I can do it. The only reason I want to do it is because the shops around me want to charge $250 and up for a basic box! Also he wants it to be a ported box and I know that requires some more calculations so any help on that too.
http://www.bcae1.com/spboxnew2.htm
basically, go by a 4x8 sheet of 3/4" MDF, prolly 20-30 dollars. liquid nails and some 1-1.5" long wood screws. calculate the size you need for the airspace and figure out what setup will work the best in the truck(for instance, you can take an inch off the width and add whatever you need to, to the height to make the box fit better and still acheive the same air space). once you figure out the dimensions, cut the peices, make sure you account for the 3/4" you will either be including or not including in the airspace for the box. start by doing an L with 2 peices, and work off that, a friend to help will make it easier, i suggest drilling small pilot holes and screwing the peices together a bit less than snug first to test fit, THEN use the liquid nails after you know it fits good. my first box wasnt the prettiest but it was not terrible for a first timer. make sure you line up edges decently and theres no such thing as too much liquid nails, dont make a mess, but spread it liberally. in the end, screw your sub(s) in and push it down, you'll know if it's sealed if the other one goes up. dont worry its easier than youd think and you can build a better box for like 50 bucks than most companies sell for 200+. good luck bud
basically, go by a 4x8 sheet of 3/4" MDF, prolly 20-30 dollars. liquid nails and some 1-1.5" long wood screws. calculate the size you need for the airspace and figure out what setup will work the best in the truck(for instance, you can take an inch off the width and add whatever you need to, to the height to make the box fit better and still acheive the same air space). once you figure out the dimensions, cut the peices, make sure you account for the 3/4" you will either be including or not including in the airspace for the box. start by doing an L with 2 peices, and work off that, a friend to help will make it easier, i suggest drilling small pilot holes and screwing the peices together a bit less than snug first to test fit, THEN use the liquid nails after you know it fits good. my first box wasnt the prettiest but it was not terrible for a first timer. make sure you line up edges decently and theres no such thing as too much liquid nails, dont make a mess, but spread it liberally. in the end, screw your sub(s) in and push it down, you'll know if it's sealed if the other one goes up. dont worry its easier than youd think and you can build a better box for like 50 bucks than most companies sell for 200+. good luck bud
