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to cap or not to cap..that is the question

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Old Oct 15, 2007 | 01:07 PM
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Default to cap or not to cap..that is the question

just like the title says above. i have a pioneer double din h/u, jl 500/1 amp, and 2 jl10w3v3-4 (300 rms each), and rear enclosure subthump box..i was told that i would be fine and not need a capacitor. but ive noticed that when i really turn it up the lights and speedo lights dim to the bass. i just purchased a power acoustik 2 farad capacitor (got a great deal on it) would running only 500 watts of bass require me to use a capacitor? or could it be something else that causes my lights to dim to the bass.hmmmm,

also, beneath is a real quick drawing of how i think the cap should be hooked up.i believe it goes like this,

1-power from battery to cap then to amp. ground from amp to cap


2- OR power from battery to cap then to amp, ground from amp to chassis
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Old Oct 15, 2007 | 01:15 PM
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Caps are not the answer to any problem. You're best bet would be to try an dfit either a larger than stock battery under your hood, or add one to the back.

Upgrading the Big 3 while you're under the hood will also aid in electrical issues.
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Old Oct 15, 2007 | 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 98Ws698
Caps are not the answer to any problem. You're best bet would be to try an dfit either a larger than stock battery under your hood, or add one to the back.

Upgrading the Big 3 while you're under the hood will also aid in electrical issues.
elaborate on all of this please..what do you mean BIG 3
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Old Oct 15, 2007 | 01:39 PM
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A battery is not an option, either.

Upgrade your power and ground cables under the hood (that is commonly called the "big 3"). If that doesn't work, alternator.
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Old Oct 15, 2007 | 02:32 PM
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a cap will help your situation, but far from fix it. The problem you are explaining is that your car accessories and stereo are draining the battery faster than its being replenished by the alternator. Hence, your stereo drains your battery and starts taking what it needs directly from the alternator, not allowing your battery to charge like it should. The only real remedy is an alternator with higher than factory amperage in order to fullfill the needs of all the accessories in your car.
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Old Oct 15, 2007 | 02:34 PM
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Big 3 is what you need, not a cap

Alternator + to battery +
Battery ground to block ground
Battery ground to frame ground or frame ground to block ground
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Old Oct 15, 2007 | 03:09 PM
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I went from the stock battery to a Red Top, and it made a huge diffrence! Look at my sig to see what i am running.

Cap:
$99.99
Doesnt do much or anything at all.
Looks cool.

Red Top
$159.99
Makes an over all difference in all electronic parts.
Is Cool.

Last edited by Gordon0652; Oct 15, 2007 at 03:20 PM.
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Old Oct 15, 2007 | 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Gordon0652
I went from the stock battery to a Red Top, and it made a huge diffrence! Look at my sig to see what i am running.
Wrong way to do it. Your audio system should not need your battery at ALL unless your car isn't running.
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Old Oct 15, 2007 | 03:41 PM
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My lights dimmed and everything, and ever since i bought the battery they havent.
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Old Oct 15, 2007 | 05:02 PM
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screw the cap, got one back in the day when I was a young lad and that was the last one I ever used with atleast 6 different setups in different vehicles since
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Old Oct 15, 2007 | 06:04 PM
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Agreed with the others, caps are a pure marketing fluke. They do nothing to help a stereo.
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Old Oct 15, 2007 | 07:48 PM
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Extra Batteries FTMFW...



2 of my 6 pictured there.

Dragonrage, you realize how much current an amp draws right? How do you expect it to get that without using the battery?
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Old Oct 15, 2007 | 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by 98Ws698
Extra Batteries FTMFW...



2 of my 6 pictured there.

Dragonrage, you realize how much current an amp draws right? How do you expect it to get that without using the battery?

Mags? Kinetik f-t-w!!
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Old Oct 15, 2007 | 11:51 PM
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Originally Posted by habeba86
Mags? Kinetik f-t-w!!
6 SSD 10s
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Old Oct 16, 2007 | 12:11 AM
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I was thinkin about doin 2 Q's in the t/a...... How do you like them....what is the box specs?
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Old Oct 16, 2007 | 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by 98Ws698
Dragonrage, you realize how much current an amp draws right? How do you expect it to get that without using the battery?
If you can get a 240A alternator, you'd be hard-pressed to find an amp that needs to use the battery. Maybe if you were sitting at idle it would use the battery a bit, but otherwise....
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Old Oct 16, 2007 | 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by dragonrage
If you can get a 240A alternator, you'd be hard-pressed to find an amp that needs to use the battery. Maybe if you were sitting at idle it would use the battery a bit, but otherwise....
i guess my daily driver having 4 autotek mm4000s and 10 batteries changes my opinion right?
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Old Oct 16, 2007 | 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by habeba86
I was thinkin about doin 2 Q's in the t/a...... How do you like them....what is the box specs?
I loved them. The box was 9.2 cubes net with 120 sq. in. of port and tuned to 33 hz. I could burp a 148.9 with 4 and 5kw at 35 hz.
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Old Oct 16, 2007 | 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by 98Ws698
i guess my daily driver having 4 autotek mm4000s and 10 batteries changes my opinion right?
All I have to say is... why?
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Old Oct 16, 2007 | 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by dragonrage
All I have to say is... why?
I compete in DB Drag
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