Dynamat ......
Dynamat ...... What areas should i dynamat ....this stuff is expensive so i dont want to waste it.
Im looking to eliminate as much exhaust, motor, and suspension noise as possible.
pics???
Im looking to eliminate as much exhaust, motor, and suspension noise as possible.
pics???
I`m in the process of installing some dynamat extreme right now. Found the bulk kit on epay shipped for $120. Check out my ws.6 major audio install thread to see what I have done so far. I just finished up the passenger door today. I don`t know if I`ll get towards the rear yet. I`ve used 4 sheets out of 9 on the doors. I bought one bulk kit, but ordered another one the other day. I don`t want to put anymore than I have to due to weight and cost.
I`m in the process of installing some dynamat extreme right now. Found the bulk kit on epay shipped for $120. Check out my ws.6 major audio install thread to see what I have done so far. I just finished up the passenger door today. I don`t know if I`ll get towards the rear yet. I`ve used 4 sheets out of 9 on the doors. I bought one bulk kit, but ordered another one the other day. I don`t want to put anymore than I have to due to weight and cost.
I used the Elemental Designs Edead sound deadener. Got it for pretty cheap and it does its job VERY well.
As said do your doors first and then the hatch area. Just knock on the big flat pieces of sheet metal and if it makes a "ping" noise then lay it down. If it sounds more like a thud then it shouldn't need it too bad. Do the "ping" areas first.
As said do your doors first and then the hatch area. Just knock on the big flat pieces of sheet metal and if it makes a "ping" noise then lay it down. If it sounds more like a thud then it shouldn't need it too bad. Do the "ping" areas first.
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well unfortunately, you pretty much gotta dynamat the whole car for you to really get it quiet. but i would say start with the doors and then hit all around the wheel wells in the back next to the sails and rear deck speakers
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If you search the forums, you'll find one that suggest using a product from Lowes that is actually pipe insulation. It is exactly the same material as the Cascade sound deadening material used for the floor and trunk. About $15 a roll and you can do your whole car with 5 rolls. I bought some cascade door kits to do the doors with, because the insulation probably wouldn't be good with the moisture. This will save you a ton of money.
The Skew at Lowes is 2829
The Skew at Lowes is 2829
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,325
Likes: 342
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
The doors really made no difference, at least to me. However I def. recommend the trunk area including useless space on driver side and the spare tire area, as there is nothing there but metal and a hole in the bottom. You can literally see the ground if you take the panels off. This significantly reduced the noise from the 4" mufflex and improved bass quality from the sub.
well i dynamatted the whole damn car ...... with exception of areas i will be welding the roll bar in .... i ran out of this stuff ( becouse they give you so little ) and purchased a diffrent brand from jegs .... so far my sound deadening project is up to 389.00 ..... 
