121 mph on a stock weight stock suspension rear end TA...what is 1/4 mile?
03-26-2006, 11:30 AM
#1
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121 mph on a stock weight stock suspension rear end TA...what is 1/4 mile? as the title says.... I see guys running low 11's with 119 speeds... why am i running 11.8's with 121? my 60 fts are bad... ..... what is the deal? the car feels like a low 11 car on the street from a roll.... just not the track!
1.928 60 FT
7.770 8th mile
94.20 mph
11.894 1/4 mile
121.01 mph
1.928 60 FT
7.770 8th mile
94.20 mph
11.894 1/4 mile
121.01 mph
Last edited by WizeAss; 03-26-2006 at 01:02 PM.
03-26-2006, 11:56 AM
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how can you have bad 60' w/ et streets on???
are you a4 or m6?
whats your mod list
im running high 11.s w/ 118mph but im also SI
your asking a broad ? w/out any info other than your time slip.
-brandon
are you a4 or m6?
whats your mod list
im running high 11.s w/ 118mph but im also SI
your asking a broad ? w/out any info other than your time slip.
-brandon
03-26-2006, 12:46 PM
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best I could manage is a 1.89 60ft... I have a stock 10bolt... dont want to break it. I launched under 4k rpm.... if i could launch where my centerforce dual friction clutch still grabs (about 4800 or so rpm) I assume with a nice burnout i could manage a 1.6 with a few suspension goodies (ie: torque arm, subframe connectors, 12 bolt, and no sway bar)
Assumptively a 1.6 would net me a low 11 time? I have a bet with my boss that my TA can hit high 10's.... he has a 05 GTO...... old school guy!
Assumptively a 1.6 would net me a low 11 time? I have a bet with my boss that my TA can hit high 10's.... he has a 05 GTO...... old school guy!
03-26-2006, 02:43 PM
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Get an A4 then you will cut those 1.6 60s hahaha. Seriously though you are gunna need some suspension or a new rearend with 4.10s. You could get slicks but you would probly just be getting a new rearend after that any way.
03-26-2006, 10:04 PM
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slip the clutch out from 4500.
that what i was doing on stock clutch and stock 10 bolt, i saw a best of a 1.80.
but seriously get a 12bolt if you wanna go faster, its the only way
that what i was doing on stock clutch and stock 10 bolt, i saw a best of a 1.80.
but seriously get a 12bolt if you wanna go faster, its the only way
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03-27-2006, 08:17 AM
#9
Backing into the #'s....
Originally Posted by Forteen3GT
as the title says.... I see guys running low 11's with 119 speeds... why am i running 11.8's with 121? my 60 fts are bad... ..... what is the deal? the car feels like a low 11 car on the street from a roll.... just not the track!
1.928 60 FT
7.770 8th mile
94.20 mph
11.894 1/4 mile
121.01 mph
1.928 60 FT
7.770 8th mile
94.20 mph
11.894 1/4 mile
121.01 mph
Starting at the end of the run:
121 mph/11.00, 660'/6.98, 330'/4.45, 60'/1.49.
As you can see, the numbers were not close, from the drop of the hammer.
It's obvious you have the HP to "run the MPH", but insufficient traction, to launch the car.
ET Streets are a BIG improvement over street tires, but there are many other factors associated with the "problem".IE:
Suspension setup.
Tire pressures.
Tire wear.
Launch technique[s].
Yadda, yadda....
IMO, you will not get the car to an ET, that closely matches the MPH, unless you add some serious driveline modifications. A 1.5 short time will get real expensive, on a stock driveline....BTDT, and have the broken parts to show for it.
Working on the short times can be productive, in that an improvement of .10 on the launch, can improve the ET by about .17.. A nice trade.
How much air do you have in the rear tires? Our tests, [some yrs ago], showed that the ET's worked best at about 14-16#....
Note the GN in my sig.. That was a MPH that should have matched an ET of 9.50.. However, the converter was about 1000 low on stall, [it was a street car]. It's ALL about the combo!!
The other posts are looking at the same as I have noted. Sounds like it's time to get out the wallet!!
Good luck...
Last edited by Old Geezer; 03-27-2006 at 08:25 AM.
03-27-2006, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Old Geezer
Here's what "it looks like, when it's right". These #'s are a computer generated set, that used 1000's of runs, at NHRA events, as the basis.
Starting at the end of the run:
121 mph/11.00, 660'/6.98, 330'/4.45, 60'/1.49.
As you can see, the numbers were not close, from the drop of the hammer.
It's obvious you have the HP to "run the MPH", but insufficient traction, to launch the car.
ET Streets are a BIG improvement over street tires, but there are many other factors associated with the "problem".IE:
Suspension setup.
Tire pressures.
Tire wear.
Launch technique[s].
Yadda, yadda....
IMO, you will not get the car to an ET, that closely matches the MPH, unless you add some serious driveline modifications. A 1.5 short time will get real expensive, on a stock driveline....BTDT, and have the broken parts to show for it.
Working on the short times can be productive, in that an improvement of .10 on the launch, can improve the ET by about .17.. A nice trade.
How much air do you have in the rear tires? Our tests, [some yrs ago], showed that the ET's worked best at about 14-16#....
Note the GN in my sig.. That was a MPH that should have matched an ET of 9.50.. However, the converter was about 1000 low on stall, [it was a street car]. It's ALL about the combo!!
The other posts are looking at the same as I have noted. Sounds like it's time to get out the wallet!!
Good luck...
Starting at the end of the run:
121 mph/11.00, 660'/6.98, 330'/4.45, 60'/1.49.
As you can see, the numbers were not close, from the drop of the hammer.
It's obvious you have the HP to "run the MPH", but insufficient traction, to launch the car.
ET Streets are a BIG improvement over street tires, but there are many other factors associated with the "problem".IE:
Suspension setup.
Tire pressures.
Tire wear.
Launch technique[s].
Yadda, yadda....
IMO, you will not get the car to an ET, that closely matches the MPH, unless you add some serious driveline modifications. A 1.5 short time will get real expensive, on a stock driveline....BTDT, and have the broken parts to show for it.
Working on the short times can be productive, in that an improvement of .10 on the launch, can improve the ET by about .17.. A nice trade.
How much air do you have in the rear tires? Our tests, [some yrs ago], showed that the ET's worked best at about 14-16#....
Note the GN in my sig.. That was a MPH that should have matched an ET of 9.50.. However, the converter was about 1000 low on stall, [it was a street car]. It's ALL about the combo!!
The other posts are looking at the same as I have noted. Sounds like it's time to get out the wallet!!
Good luck...
03-27-2006, 08:49 AM
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Hey Nineball/Admin!
Can you change my title?? Hopefully it will be 10 second club in the near future... time are in the sig.... I do have a power adder.
Can you change my title?? Hopefully it will be 10 second club in the near future... time are in the sig.... I do have a power adder.
03-30-2006, 08:44 PM
#12
Originally Posted by RaNsOm
you wont get anywhere near high 10s as it sits now, your gonna have to put some Heads on the car.
I don't agree with this at all. He hooks, mid 1.5's or so, and welcome to the 10's.
On those heads. I plan on doing it with 130k stock LT1 heads (Aftermarket springs).
03-30-2006, 11:28 PM
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Your car runs like mine. I was pulling 1.9 60 ft's running 11.8's, 11.9's all at 121mph. I have stock weight and just lowering springs which dont help.
03-31-2006, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Stangkilr
Your car runs like mine. I was pulling 1.9 60 ft's running 11.8's, 11.9's all at 121mph. I have stock weight and just lowering springs which dont help.
04-01-2006, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Forteen3GT
i just ran a 7.5 8th mile with a 95mph trap speed.... seems like I could run 11.5's or 11.6's with my current setup.. on the 7.5 run i had a 1.8 60ft...... hold on 10bolt
04-01-2006, 01:21 PM
#18
Your on stock 3.42's right? I wouldn't worry *too* much about the rear, you'll see that most rears that break on power like yours have gears. I know a guy who went 11.4's w/over 500 to the wheels on the stock 10bolt w/3.42's, but as soon as gears go in, boom. And say you do break it and dont have the cash for a 9'' then buy another 10 bolt for $500 or an axel and save.
04-01-2006, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Trust
Your on stock 3.42's right? I wouldn't worry *too* much about the rear, you'll see that most rears that break on power like yours have gears. I know a guy who went 11.4's w/over 500 to the wheels on the stock 10bolt w/3.42's, but as soon as gears go in, boom. And say you do break it and dont have the cash for a 9'' then buy another 10 bolt for $500 or an axel and save.
