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suggestions to get me to 12.50s

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Old 07-25-2011, 01:40 AM   #1
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OK so I'm looking for suggestions to get my car to the 12.50 range so 12.599 or faster.
currently I have ran 12.72@110.98mph with a 1.98 60ft. Car is a 98 z28 m6 with a stock lq4 longblock.mods are longtubes,ory,ported TB and Maf,cutout,free mods,home made ram air(not sealed to air box),slp lid,& a frost mail order tune for nitrous. My timing at wot is 21.5° and I tried the iat resistor mod to get an additional. 1.5°but it brought it down to 20°. I'm leaving at about 4500rpm on street tires slipping the clutch a tiny bit and have no tire spin.you guys think there's something I can do for cheap to get that last .2 tenths?
I wanna do it n/a and for next to nothing.
Thanks joe
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Old 07-25-2011, 02:29 AM   #2
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buddy you really need a set of drs, my buddy was in the 12.50 range with a lq4 and drs,are you spraying or what? sorry just wondering why you are running a mail in tune for spray when your not spraying lol
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Old 07-25-2011, 03:01 AM   #3
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LOL yeah I know. I am going to be spraying the car soon.times are n/a. Plans are to spray eventually but now that I'm close to 12.50 I have made a goal of it. I'd buy drag radials but I'm worried about breaking the ten bolt. Traction hasint been a issue,but I'm sure the clutch slip is helping a lot. I would retune the car but since plans are to Turbo it in the winter I see no real big point.how much does a tenth off 60ft typically help et? I think its mostly maxed out in current form. Maybe I can eek out another tenth but that may be all it has
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Old 07-25-2011, 04:26 AM   #4
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i would get a rearend that can take the launches before turbo ,spray or anything else if your plans are to be at the track alot,i know on street tires i would spin like cazy, any mods besides the ones you have posted ?
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Old 07-25-2011, 10:44 AM   #5
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Trust me you are going to have to get a new rearend because that ten bolt is not going to last you very LONG. As soon as you put some DR on the back you are going to brack it . You might get to make a few good pass's but trust me its not going to last to LONG.
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Old 07-25-2011, 12:21 PM   #6
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So it looks like you need a new rearend
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Old 07-25-2011, 03:50 PM   #7
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LOL yeah I know then bolt is not a strong diff. I can't justify since I go to the track 3-4 times a year and the car is a street car. If I brake it ill buy another $100 ten bolt.
Rear end has sofar held up to 30 bottles of nitrous on a 125 rwhp shot with the old motor. I don't deny there weak at all,but the cost is not worth it
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Old 07-25-2011, 04:05 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stangtrader View Post
LOL yeah I know then bolt is not a strong diff. I can't justify since I go to the track 3-4 times a year and the car is a street car. If I brake it ill buy another $100 ten bolt.
Rear end has sofar held up to 30 bottles of nitrous on a 125 rwhp shot with the old motor. I don't deny there weak at all,but the cost is not worth it
i too am in the same boat you are..got a 520 RWHP SS with the stock 10 bolt with 3.23 gears..but am going for a 9 inch with 3.75 gears...yes they are expensive and sometimes seem not worth it..but the best benifit are mainly you being able to launch at full blast without worrying about your rear snapping..i have broken a 10 bolt on my old 96 WS6 i had..it was an M6 and i had 4.11 gears and launched on DR's...you will be swapping alot of rear ends out and the cost and pain and the time consumed if you do go turbo in the long run will not be worth it man..everyone who goes the route of trying to make a 10 bolt work for them always ends up either giving up and selling the car or giving in and forking up 2500 for a 9 inch or 12 bolt..BTW..you can buy one of here for only 1,500 on average...high HP M6 with a 10 bolt..bad..bad idea..the ONLY reason mine has lasted as long as it has..is because of mine being a A4..the only way i would recomend keeping the 10 bolt is if you are an old man who never gives it more than 50% throttle..anything else is asking for it in a 10 bolt

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Old 07-25-2011, 08:30 PM   #9
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pull some weight. front/rear bumper supports, back seats, front swaybar...exhaust past the y. and anything else that isn't necessary..

or get better tires and hope you don't hammer the drivetrain too much. the a4 cars do much better, simply due to so little drivetrain shock.

what's the da where you're racing? your goal may be as simple as waiting for better weather.
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Old 07-25-2011, 08:47 PM   #10
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Was thinking of gutting the car temporary to run the number.how much weight you think needs to come out per tenth? As far as da I am unsure. It was about 68° with maybe 75% humidity at 300ft above sea level. I did hot lap the hell out of my car. It seemed to get faster and faster.I made 20 passes in 4 hours. Maybe removing weight and running my car cold ish may do it, plus maybe sealing my ram air
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Old 07-26-2011, 04:44 PM   #11
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i'd like to think that a couple hundred pounds and a decent tire would get you there. this is also dependent on how well you can drive.

just out of curiosity, what was your 1/8 et and mph?
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Old 07-26-2011, 04:44 PM
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