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Oil Change
#1
Oil Change
My car is approaching 81,000 miles and I was wondering what would be(in your opinions)the best oil that I could put into my LS1?
-02 camaro z28, slp lm1, hypertech prog.
-02 camaro z28, slp lm1, hypertech prog.
#5
stick with NGK TR55's
and for oil, LS1's love German Castrol Syntec 0w30 with a quality (i.e. K&N) oil filter
you can get good deals on it at autozone sometimes, so keep an eye out
and for oil, LS1's love German Castrol Syntec 0w30 with a quality (i.e. K&N) oil filter
you can get good deals on it at autozone sometimes, so keep an eye out
#7
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that Amsoil batch is gonna cost you a pretty penny each time. "MOST" LS1'ers use M1, GC, and Penzoil Platinum with a K&N oil filter or AC Delco. NGK TR55 are the only plugs you need for now.
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#8
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With 81K on the clock it's kind of late for an expensive synthetic oil like Amsoil. It's not going to undo the wear that the motor already has at this point. If you use M1/Penzoil/Valvoline synthetic and a good oil filter like NAPA gold or K&N, it will protect the motor for many trouble free miles.
#9
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I use regular Dyno oil, the car is driven mostly in Spring/Summer/Fall, no winter and even if it was, I would not be worried.
Best as in ANYTHING is a very subjective term. Technically Best for me is what is cost efficent and what the car likes. Frankly I put just about 3k on a car a season and techincally I could do a oil change @ the beginning on Syn. Go a whole season, leave it in over the winter and change fresh @ the Beginning again.
Or do 3 seperate oil changes @ 1k mile intervals for around the same cost and your not hurting it by doing that.
I run Mobil Clean 5000 on a AC Delco Filter. I might consider a Napa Gold Filter for the 6.0L as it has some more capacity. IF I was to consider Syn, then I would look @ Pennzoil Platnium.
As for the rest of the Tune-up Look at other things and I will say when I did my cam @ 35k I did everything except bleed out the older brake fluid.
Coolant- Prestone (mixes with anything)
Plugs- NGK TR-55
Wires- LS6
Pads/Rotors- Top of the Line Autozone (Front/Rear)
Battery- The Positive Post rotted off, Autozone
Wipers- RainX (honestly for the times it sees rain, could have been generic)
Fuel- Autozone brand
Oil- Mobil Clean 5000 (recommended weight)
Oil Filter- AC Delco
Serp Belt- Gator Back (matched to the SLP U/D Pulley
P/S- Flush/Fill
Transmission Fluid- M6 Pennzoil Synchromesh, A4 Dexron ATF & Filter
Air- K&N Recharge which took a few days letting the oil dry and set.
This stuff adds up, even when you do your own work.
#14
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The negative side to switching to synthetic after having ran conventional for so long is that conventional sludges up, and while that isn't good in and of itself, it blocks leaks. Synthetic will clean that sludge, and may present a leak (not cause it), if it's already there. Even so, fix the leak and run synthetic.
#16
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I have always used pennzoil platinum in mine, but just picked up some german castrol on sale and I'll be damned if the ticking I've had since I first fired the ls1 swap isn't literally gone now...
Think I'm going to stick with the castrol now, the engine is much less annoying with it
Think I'm going to stick with the castrol now, the engine is much less annoying with it
#18
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What?
The negative side to switching to synthetic after having ran conventional for so long is that conventional sludges up, and while that isn't good in and of itself, it blocks leaks. Synthetic will clean that sludge, and may present a leak (not cause it), if it's already there. Even so, fix the leak and run synthetic.
The negative side to switching to synthetic after having ran conventional for so long is that conventional sludges up, and while that isn't good in and of itself, it blocks leaks. Synthetic will clean that sludge, and may present a leak (not cause it), if it's already there. Even so, fix the leak and run synthetic.
My stand point is on Bearing/Cyl Wall Health. Wear on the engine is measured on these parts mainly. What becomes the ROOT cause of a rebuild generally does have to do with.....
1) Head Gaskets
2) Piston/Rod Damage
3) Bearings
4) Block Damage
Being that a motor that is PROPERLY maintained with conventional oil for 81k Miles will not see nearly the benefit of life so late in the cycle as it would have if it was swapped with in the first 10,000.
Syn absolutely have their place but what I said was an opinion. But do not twist my words into something that is not.
As for "Sludging" get off the TV and stop watching commericals. Sludging occurs primarily on engines with POOR service cycles. Not changing it regularly is what leads to this issue. Period.
Depending on the set up, be it a 87 Grand National Motor or Nitrous Spec'ed LSx based motor is not only is recommended to run convential, but to run a very thick weight due to ring gap specs.
So what works on one does not work for all. But one piece of advice that will encompass possibly EVERY single engine ever created in all of exsistance is simply....
Maintain proper Service Cycles!
Last edited by BlackScreaminMachine; 01-10-2011 at 11:27 AM.