Drop 15lbs off your heat and still keep it...
With this setup it uses a home made block off plate for the engine bay which cleans it up a ton. So much easier to work in there now.
I was dropping a bunch of weight out of my car and since the dash was going to be pulled i decided to mod the heat box.
I junked all the plastic/fiberglass that was sticking in the engine bay and cut/grinded it all full with the firewall. Since the hvac air is run through the engine bay a port needs to be cut and sealed near the blower to allow the air to travel properly though the heater core. I ditched all the controls/levers that distribute air to the vents using the intake vacuum. The blend door is still function on this setup and you can route as many lines as you like to where you want. I decided that since 90% of the time i use defrost/feet that is where i would setup my system to run.
An aluminum plate was made to seal off the system near the blend door. Pop rivets and silicone hold it in place. 1" PVC stubs were used along with sump pump hose that was 8 or so dollars at lowes for 24'. They both are a perfect fit. The line were then ran and trimmed to length and held in place with zip ties. Also not that the heater thermo was relocated into the loop around portion of the heater core cover. It sits perfect in there.
I am sure there is some questions but i figured i would make a brief write up and let the pictures answer alot of the questions.
Oh and it blows hot as hell just likes stock





Last edited by chrs1313; Oct 24, 2010 at 08:34 PM.
I was looking into removing the HVAC box on the passenger side firewall but it just looked so tight in there that I didn't see how I would do it with the motor in the car. Any ideas or suggestions? Can it all come out through the interior if I pull the dash?
Chris
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hope that makes some sense...
Chris












it works really good we have been planing to do this for some time it just took both of us Ripping into it one night. 