Quick ? on the slave cylinder line connection--supposed to be loose?
#1
Quick ? on the slave cylinder line connection--supposed to be loose?
I just plugged my slave cylinder line from the clutch MC to the slave cylinder, and the end just flops all around. Can't believe it doesn't seal tighter, but maybe its supposed to be this loose for driveline movement. You can see the angle it will go in the pic, and it will rotate 360 around that. Is it supposed to be that loose? I do have to push the plastic deal in to release it, I was just expected a lot more firm "click" when connected. Am I ok, or am I missing something?
THX!!
THX!!
#2
Anybody?
I did work on it some more, and you can actually pull it out w/o depressing the plastic tab. Seems like the whole thing needs to go much further in. I opened my speed bleeder line just in case it needed to relieve pressure to allow it to go in, but no joy. Is there a trick to completely pushing this in?
also, how much room do you really need to push this on and off once I figure it out? As you can see from the pic, I only have about 2" and I've already beat the heck out of my floor. If that's enough I'd like to stop.
Thoughts?
I did work on it some more, and you can actually pull it out w/o depressing the plastic tab. Seems like the whole thing needs to go much further in. I opened my speed bleeder line just in case it needed to relieve pressure to allow it to go in, but no joy. Is there a trick to completely pushing this in?
also, how much room do you really need to push this on and off once I figure it out? As you can see from the pic, I only have about 2" and I've already beat the heck out of my floor. If that's enough I'd like to stop.
Thoughts?
#3
TECH Addict
iTrader: (4)
a pic of (or the lack of) the internal clip might help. It's definitely not "right."
aftermarket slaves began going to an external spring clip (somewhat like OEM radiator / heater hose clamps) but I don't think either of your parts are those.
What car is this which needed a canoe job on the floor?
aftermarket slaves began going to an external spring clip (somewhat like OEM radiator / heater hose clamps) but I don't think either of your parts are those.
What car is this which needed a canoe job on the floor?
#4
This is in my 71 Cutlass.
I took the end out and bent the "fingers" and then it fit much more snugly. Although then its harder to get out. Does this look like its far enough in?
Also, the slave cylinder has a couple of rings that are just loose at the end; when I compress it these just pop out. Is this ok or do I need to do something about this?
Thx much for your thoughts.
I took the end out and bent the "fingers" and then it fit much more snugly. Although then its harder to get out. Does this look like its far enough in?
Also, the slave cylinder has a couple of rings that are just loose at the end; when I compress it these just pop out. Is this ok or do I need to do something about this?
Thx much for your thoughts.
#5
Morning bump bump. Any feedback on the last picture? Is that the correct depth for the mc clutch line? BTW, this is a tick unit if that makes a difference, going into an 01 ls1 slave.
Thx!
EDIT: found helpful link, adding for anyone else w/same prob in future. Still hoping for add'l comment, but this is good:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RVjEM...eature=related
Thx!
EDIT: found helpful link, adding for anyone else w/same prob in future. Still hoping for add'l comment, but this is good:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RVjEM...eature=related
Last edited by Goldhawg; 12-31-2011 at 06:49 AM. Reason: hyperlink useful for others to see
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#9
As for drill mod, don't need that w/tick adj MC as I understand it.
Last edited by Goldhawg; 01-01-2012 at 07:00 PM. Reason: forgot tick comment
#12
Launching!
Join Date: Jun 2005
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I just bought a brand new slave directly from a GM dealer and I don't have any rings loose like that
I broke my previous slave, and that one didn't have anything like that either.
As for the quick release plastic tab on the hydraulic line, it did look fine until you smashed it all the way down in the holder.
BTW while you're doing this, I highly recommend an 18"+ remote bleeder for the T-56.
Without it, you'll hate life down the road if anything needs to be bled again.
I broke my previous slave, and that one didn't have anything like that either.
As for the quick release plastic tab on the hydraulic line, it did look fine until you smashed it all the way down in the holder.
BTW while you're doing this, I highly recommend an 18"+ remote bleeder for the T-56.
Without it, you'll hate life down the road if anything needs to be bled again.
#13
I just bought a brand new slave directly from a GM dealer and I don't have any rings loose like that
I broke my previous slave, and that one didn't have anything like that either.
As for the quick release plastic tab on the hydraulic line, it did look fine until you smashed it all the way down in the holder.
BTW while you're doing this, I highly recommend an 18"+ remote bleeder for the T-56.
Without it, you'll hate life down the road if anything needs to be bled again.
I broke my previous slave, and that one didn't have anything like that either.
As for the quick release plastic tab on the hydraulic line, it did look fine until you smashed it all the way down in the holder.
BTW while you're doing this, I highly recommend an 18"+ remote bleeder for the T-56.
Without it, you'll hate life down the road if anything needs to be bled again.
#14
Wondering if the new slave just isn't bad. Doesn't have any distinctive markings, don't the better brands have some stamps or something? I did flip the little plastic tab and then it seems to hold in place. It only came loose after I compressed the spring a bit. Maybe I should just cut my losses and get a new slave cylinder? I bought off a highly rated member, but that was over 9 months ago and its just been sitting in a box. Can you buy just the connection that I've got removed that is the source of my problem? Or just bite the bullet and get a whole new unit?
#15
Well, decided to play with the end piece that is sticky. Got my largest waterpumps, a socket and a little synthetic brake fluid and started working the internal piston again and again while putting a bit of brake fluid in to flush any gunk from either previous use or just sitting. After this I could push it in by hand. However, when I came back to get the camera to take this pic it was difficult again. Hmmm....