Gearhead1

Cryogenics and valve springs. Anybody on here ever do it?? What kind of results did you have?? Also, what were you charged to have it done?? I am looking into options to extend valvespring longevity. Are there any other options besides this?? I've been to 300 Below's website and they don't have prices listed, besides the fact that I want to hear about real world experiences and not be fed a line by one of their salesmen. I know that it works, I just want unbiased opinions.

gollum

iTrader: (1)

300 Below stress relieved my new front OEM rotors. Problem fixed...no more brake pulsating/warping after brakes got hot.

DavidNJ

I don't think it is a stress relief issue. More a martensite transformation issue and the location of carbon in solution.

Ric

HUH???

I've been led to believe that cryo'd pieces were more or less a more uniformly forged piece in that the extreme cold caused the part to contract (rather than be forced into a more compacted state) into a more densely packed metal, then gradually and slowly brought back up to room temp. My dad had the idea for years... apparently great minds think alike.

z-ya

iTrader: (1)

I do use the process on my h2 dragbike trannys and it sure helps them live .

Old SStroker

For longest valvespring life, buy the best quality springs you can afford. Assure that they are produced from the "cleanest" wire. That means the absolute minimum amount of inclusions in the metal.

Next have your valvetrain designed to use the springs in the load and rpm ranges they were designed for. Assure you have a stable valvetrain to keep unwanted crashing of parts. Have your cam designer fator in your desire for spring life vs. your thirst for power. You might have to give up a little power to get longer life. IOW, get the design right and don't rely on "magic bullets" or bandaids for a bad design.

Subzero treatment can have positive effects on some metals. -100F treatment us used routinely with hardened steels to minimize retained austenite. It doesn't reshape the material, nor change the density nor the grain flow nor the size any significant amount, especially in steel like you might find in high-strength engine parts. -300F isn't going to do that either.

Bud M

iTrader: (1)

Ya gotta love a guy who is still racing a Kawi triple

STOCK1090

iTrader: (1)

How long are you getting now?
What is the failure?
What is the application?
What are you looking to extend? Breakage or pressures?
What brand/type do you have now?
Is this a hypothetical question?

gollum

iTrader: (1)

A Cryo treated (stress relieved) gun barrel will prevent bullet holes from stringing (moving from center) when barrel temps range from cold to hot.

Gearhead1

OK, this is going to be kind of long so bear with me.
I guess what I'm asking is hypothetical for now. My Dart heads are being shipped tomorrow (Mon) and the springs that they come with are listed here starting on page 17. They're P/N PSILS1511.
http://www.cvproducts.com/cv/catalog/catalogs/M-P.pdf
As you can see they're beehives and seem to be a decent spring. Everybody is down on beehives because of the "what happens if a spring breaks" syndrome, but I'm hoping that having them cryo'd will alleviate that worry. So, I'm looking to extend the life of the spring and hopfully keep them from breaking. I want to stay away from double springs because I don't particularly care for the extra valvetrain noise associated with them. (my son has them on his SS and it sounds like a V8 sewing machine. Sorry Chris ) However.... I'm going to have a tough time running these with the LSK lobes (219 .632, 223 .636) that I have picked out. I'm pretty sure that these springs come on the Darts installed at 1.75". That definitely won't work with the LSK's. But, if I install them @ 1.8, I might be able to sqeak by (it'll be extremely close) Also, I'll lose about 10 lbs of seat pressure and I'm not sure if it'll cause the valves to bounce. I'm not even sure if you can shim springs as precise as these will need to be. If worse comes to worse, I can always run a XFI lobed cam and everything will work just fine. But, I'd much rather run the LSK's if feasable. So, there you have it. There were some members on here wanting to see someone try running the beehives with the LSK lobes, supposedly no one has done it yet. If anybody is ambitious enough to do the math on this soon to be setup, please let me know what you think. There's enough collective knowledge on this website that I have faith in your opinions.

Old SStroker

IMO, "collective knowledge" isn't the way to go with valvetrain parts selection unless you can sort the bad advice from the good....and in that case you would be a valvetrain designer so you wouldn't need the help. Catch 22.

At the very least get recommendatons from the cam company who is making your specific cam for specific matching springs and installed heights. Better yet, get some help/advice from someone who does valvetrains for a living. You may have to pay for this advice unless you buy the parts there, but it will be a lot cheaper than fixing the consequences of chosing the wrong parts. I've seen the results and they are not pretty.

My $.02

MadBill

The beehive design has a lot going for it, e.g. no/little resonance point, lighter reciprocating spring and retainer weight, more metal where it's needed (ovate wire) no frictional heating between inner and outer. Against this, the "whatifitbreaks?" argument is pretty feeble. If the outer of a dual spring set breaks, you get terminal valve float at 3,000 RPM. How safe is that?

aggiez28

iTrader: (19)

i had my comp 943 springs, rotors, many t56 parts done. i sold the car before i used any of that stuff

brook

Gearhead1

Do you remember what it cost (approximately) for the springs

BeachZ

iTrader: (2)

For what it's worth, I thought about getting my Eradispeed rotors cryoed, and called Eradispeed for their opinion. They said they had tested the process on their rotors, and it had absolutely no effect.