Lets talk oiling systems.
#1
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Lets talk oiling systems.
Well i just tore down my motor because i found brass shavings in my remote filter assy.I was worryed about my motor last time out i noticed my oil presser was getting lazy so i figure i better tear it down.My oil system is a modified with the external reglator and filter assy the lines are routed on the outside of the block.I went this route because i thought it would handle high rpms but i don't think its enough oiling for my motor.I spin my 408 8000+ rpms and i think thats why im having bearing faliure.My question is what would you do for a oiling system.I know most are going to say dry sump but who has the best bang for the buck.Any other thoughts on my oil system i have now.BTW i was running a stock pan and im wondering if there is a problem there also.I have canton on the way but if i go dry sump ill just have to sell the pan im getting.
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ive had an engine spit brass shavings on me. once you hit brass theyre done for.
how high is your oil pressure at thoes RPMs? do you run a weight of oil for your conditions? you may have to get more oil on the bearings when spinning that high and not starve them.
how high is your oil pressure at thoes RPMs? do you run a weight of oil for your conditions? you may have to get more oil on the bearings when spinning that high and not starve them.
#3
FormerVendor
Tuff,
In the end you'll need to go dry sump. This way the aerated oil has a place to separate and the pump gets liquid oil back into it. After a few gears at 8000 rpm you have turned your oil into chocolate mousse 99 per cent of the time with the LS1 stock oiling system and pan.
Now if you could run a deeper sump that could hold more oil you might still be able to hack it drag racing wise at least.
In the end you'll need to go dry sump. This way the aerated oil has a place to separate and the pump gets liquid oil back into it. After a few gears at 8000 rpm you have turned your oil into chocolate mousse 99 per cent of the time with the LS1 stock oiling system and pan.
Now if you could run a deeper sump that could hold more oil you might still be able to hack it drag racing wise at least.
#4
FormerVendor
Tuff,
If you did forget to put that plug in it will affect your oil pressure and it will also result in none of the oil being filtered either. That would definitely be another problem. That plug diverts the oil to the filter and seals the main oil galley as well. If it's out it is not a good thing.
If you did forget to put that plug in it will affect your oil pressure and it will also result in none of the oil being filtered either. That would definitely be another problem. That plug diverts the oil to the filter and seals the main oil galley as well. If it's out it is not a good thing.
Originally Posted by tuff
We tore down the motor yesterday and to find out the white plunger in the back of the block is missing.Now im wondering if this is why i was having problems controling oil pressure at WOT.What doe's that plunger do?Will that effect the effency of the lower end oiling in anyway.
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Originally Posted by racer7088
Tuff,
If you did forget to put that plug in it will affect your oil pressure and it will also result in none of the oil being filtered either. That would definitely be another problem. That plug diverts the oil to the filter and seals the main oil galley as well. If it's out it is not a good thing.
If you did forget to put that plug in it will affect your oil pressure and it will also result in none of the oil being filtered either. That would definitely be another problem. That plug diverts the oil to the filter and seals the main oil galley as well. If it's out it is not a good thing.
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I just recived my new pan from canton and now that im looking at the baffle system im starting to wonder if that is why at WOT at the track my oil presser will drop 15-20 psi.If we let the motor run we will have 60psi at idle warm with 20 50 oil.In the burn out box it will raise to about 75psi.But when i launch it will drop to 45psi and that i think is were the bearings are taking a beating.Im thinking the oil is getting away from the pickup and im sucking oil and air.Im wondering if the pan is the problem.Seems like people don't have problems like this but im sure there not running a stock pan also.
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Do you run a high volume oil pump. They tend to drain the pan of oil unless you have a large pan. Most all aplications only need a high pressure pump not high volume. I used to go thru bearing wear too for a little while. Then i went to a Accusump seystem. I swear by those things. They allow you to pump oil into the motor before you start it, and also when you hit the brakes and oil sloshes away from your pickup they take over and pump oil to the mains. That and redline oil changed every thing for me. I also run a jeff johnstons pan and a titan gerotor oil pump.
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#8
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Originally Posted by DRVETTE
Do you run a high volume oil pump. They tend to drain the pan of oil unless you have a large pan. Most all aplications only need a high pressure pump not high volume. I used to go thru bearing wear too for a little while. Then i went to a Accusump seystem. I swear by those things. They allow you to pump oil into the motor before you start it, and also when you hit the brakes and oil sloshes away from your pickup they take over and pump oil to the mains. That and redline oil changed every thing for me. I also run a jeff johnstons pan and a titan gerotor oil pump.
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Originally Posted by DRVETTE
Do you run a high volume oil pump. They tend to drain the pan of oil unless you have a large pan. Most all aplications only need a high pressure pump not high volume. I used to go thru bearing wear too for a little while. Then i went to a Accusump seystem. I swear by those things. They allow you to pump oil into the motor before you start it, and also when you hit the brakes and oil sloshes away from your pickup they take over and pump oil to the mains. That and redline oil changed every thing for me. I also run a jeff johnstons pan and a titan gerotor oil pump.
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Here is stock vs canton.I kinda screwed up on the stock pan picture if the ruler was moved over you would see the big 3/4 gap that the oil can slosh to the back of the pan.
#16
what happens to all the oil behind the trap doors? Does it just hang out or after launch would they let oil back to the pick up? Someone should put a video camara in both oil pans and see what happens. Thats if you could see anything with all the oil flying around.
#17
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
this moroso looks good with the pick up in the back
this moroso looks good with the pick up in the back
#18
dry sump is bay far the best solution simply cos you will have to get through a heel of a lot of oil before you ran the tank dry!
an aquasump is a good idea on a normal oiling system. i know a lot of HIGH G (breaking and acel.) guys that use them with there mid mounted SBCs to great effect! and as said they let you prime the engine before cranking!
definatly go aquasump at a minimum.
thanks CHris.
an aquasump is a good idea on a normal oiling system. i know a lot of HIGH G (breaking and acel.) guys that use them with there mid mounted SBCs to great effect! and as said they let you prime the engine before cranking!
definatly go aquasump at a minimum.
thanks CHris.
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I have seen the Moroso pan, it has the pick-up in the rear and a trap door just forward of the pick for hard braking. It looks like a better design and stronger then the Canton Pan.
Bob
Bob
#20
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Could be....
Looks like the significant difference in hgt of the baffles, could/would affect the amt of oil available to the pickup, on accel.
Perhaps the stock pan baffle is holding too much oil up, above the pickup??
IMO, the deeper cavity, and the improved sealing, etc, on the new pan will help.
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Perhaps the stock pan baffle is holding too much oil up, above the pickup??
IMO, the deeper cavity, and the improved sealing, etc, on the new pan will help.
Back to