Engine assembly: ring oil
#2
I use regular 5w30 non synthetic motor oil. give the bore a good wipe with a rag then drizzle in just enough to fill up the upper ring land to the top of the piston. don;t worry it'll seep by and wet the rest of the ring pack.
#5
Light coat of lube on the cylinder walls and install pistons dry. Making sure that your cylinder bores are absolutely clean is most important, every engine builder uses a slightly different way of lube/installation, and if their process didn't work they wouldn't continue using it.
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When I was building production rebuilt motors I just used a concoction of WD-40 and non deter 30 wt in a squirt bottle. However when building my own I would just apply a thin film of lubriplate to the cylinders and install the pistons and rings dry. In theory you do not want excessive combustible material in the ring lands when you fire the motor because it will burn and leave carbon byproducts which supposedly can interfere with your ring seal.
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Originally Posted by nesikachad
STP oil treatment works good.
Nice and sticky to make sure it stays there until the oil pump burps all the air and gets the juices flowing.
Haven't blown one up yet using it!
Nice and sticky to make sure it stays there until the oil pump burps all the air and gets the juices flowing.
Haven't blown one up yet using it!
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I am an engine builder and this is the sure fire way to insure proper ring seal.First clean the bores with WD-40 or Amsoil MP leave them a little wet then get your self some quickseat powder from total seal rub it in the bores lightly coat the piston skirts with oil, offset your ring gaps and assemble.
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I am an engine builder and this is the sure fire way to insure proper ring seal.First clean the bores with WD-40 or Amsoil MP leave them a little wet then get your self some quickseat powder from total seal rub it in the bores lightly coat the piston skirts with oil, offset your ring gaps and assemble.
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Would quickseat powder be appropriate for a potentially high mileage street motor, or would this just be used to ensure quick break-in on race engines? Or would this also depend on the particular hone pattern on the finished bore? Along with the hone pattern, wouldn't ring material affect which assembly lubes and such would be proper? With so many opinions on build clearances, break-in, materials, and such, I have always wondered how much actual data is available. I have never personally met anyone with access to anything other than anecdotal "this is what always worked" type info.