Rotary Buffer gets it done!
#1
Rotary Buffer gets it done!
Long story made really short.
2001 Chevrolet Silverado
117k WORK TRUCK
Very neglected (5 yrs since washed/waxed/cleaned)
Customer just wanted to compounded
We spent bout 1-2 hours on the hood alone with a D/A Porter Cable.
LCC Pads
Green (corse) M105 @ 5
Yellow Cutting M105 @ 5
Orange Swirl/Cutting M105 @ 5
White Polishing M205 @ 2-3
Looked good all things considering but we had a whole truck to do and not 40 hours.
So I said frig this and pulled out the Rotary
The pic you see is the driver side door.
LCC Pads
Orange M105 @ 2 +1 click Med press. Med arm speed (Rotary)
Orange M105 @ 5 on the DA
White M205 @ 2-3 on the DA
Wiped clean, pulled the tape, took a pic
Corrected a honest 90% and there are sometimes you need to pull out the big guns. No paint depth checker but will get one soon. This tool does work when its needed. Most cars dont need it but having both has a place in my tool bag.
Feel free to ask questions or comment.
#5
Thanks. I finally got a car with bad enough paint to see how much you could correct. I have a wool pad but Orange / m105 is a work horse for us.
The D/A did a fine job, when I did not have time to be there all night, time is $$$ and this is the practice that people need to see what works and what does not.
The D/A did a fine job, when I did not have time to be there all night, time is $$$ and this is the practice that people need to see what works and what does not.
#6
TECH Addict
iTrader: (31)
On hard paints when you're in a hurry, you can actually do the final polish with a rotary too without leaving buffer trails. I've done that when time is tight. Some times really soft paint needs a rotary with black pad and a fine micro polish to finish down without micro marring. I love my rotary! I still use a DA most of the time though.
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#8
TECH Addict
iTrader: (31)
Yep!
I know 105 works well, but I hate the dust! How do you feel about it? The easiest way to get rid of it is to wash the car off, but that is extra work. I stay away from it as much as possible. Megs D300 with a yellow or orange pad is my first choice when going heavy. That combo works about the same as 105, but not nearly as dusty.
I know 105 works well, but I hate the dust! How do you feel about it? The easiest way to get rid of it is to wash the car off, but that is extra work. I stay away from it as much as possible. Megs D300 with a yellow or orange pad is my first choice when going heavy. That combo works about the same as 105, but not nearly as dusty.
#9
Yea, on older paint (see dry) or single stage, they recommend M80 or M83 (i will double chk), I may get some of that. We just bought a 1 gall cont of M105, so we are good for a while.
To be honest, I got some dust off but more to do with the over loaded pad (need more pads and a brush to "clean on the fly".
When I did my passes, anything dusted up, I went over it again and was able to clear out 95%. IF it was bad, regular speed detailer and microfiber.
I found the D/A was worse with dusting up then the rotary as the DA had a harder time cutting up dusted compound vs the rotary blasting through it. This was a case where we needed to blast through layers. On a car with lets say minor swirling I would probably be pulling my hair out with dust up issues.
To be honest, I got some dust off but more to do with the over loaded pad (need more pads and a brush to "clean on the fly".
When I did my passes, anything dusted up, I went over it again and was able to clear out 95%. IF it was bad, regular speed detailer and microfiber.
I found the D/A was worse with dusting up then the rotary as the DA had a harder time cutting up dusted compound vs the rotary blasting through it. This was a case where we needed to blast through layers. On a car with lets say minor swirling I would probably be pulling my hair out with dust up issues.