hardtrailz

Could probably do that sometime. I have the HID to stick in them.

I know a couple guys big into retro fitting other headlights, so I would think the freedom to just stick a good projector on a plate VS having to fit in a housing n such may allow for something decent to be done. I just never really played with them much myself.

VIP1

Except that H4 bulbs are dimmer than 9011 & 9012 bulbs that you can put into the LMC Housings.

H4 bulbs are not good.

H4 - Low Beam Mode: 860 lumen
H4 - High Beam Mode: 1650 lumen

9012 (Low Beam Bulb): 1875 lumen
9011 (High Beam Bulb): 2350 lumen

Big Difference. Even if you double them up, a single 9012 Low Beam bulb is brighter than (2) H4 Bulbs in Low Beam Mode.

InfiniteReality

iTrader: (6)

I forgot about the 9011/12 bulbs, but very true. I was just thinking about the better cutoff between the 2 with HIDs, which won't matter using halogens, lol. I know I never checked the cutoff between my LMC and Bosch housings with halogens

hardtrailz

The included lows are 9006 correct?

Are the 9012 higher wattage?

VIP1

I don't know if the LMC Housings come with bulbs or not.

The 9012 & 9011 bulbs are the same 55 & 65 watt as the 9006 & 9005 bulbs.

High beam: 9011 replaces 9005, both same 65 watt
Low beam: 9012 replaces 9006, both same 55 watt

Also, since the LMC Low Beam Housing has a bulb cap built in, you may be able to modify a 9011 High beam bulb to fit without causing glare.

Another good idea to help get every last lumen you can is to make or get a relay harness. I made my own for the H9 Projectors I put in my Formula.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/appearanc...l#post11372669

hardtrailz

They came with Sylvania bulbs. 9006.

I always run a relay with HID or LED, but never have with halogens. Did you try with and without to see if it really made a difference?

VIP1

I installed the relay harness mostly because I have a 55watt HID kit in my projectors.

However, a relay harness should help improve output to Halogen bulbs. I'm not completely sure about the f-body but on older cars it does indeed help (due to wire gauge, age, corrosion, etc). Either way, I'm running thicker wire than stock powered off the battery instead of the various connectors and longer/thinner stock wiring (the stock wiring provides the trigger for the relays).

I think the stock headlight wiring is 18AWG, and the harness I made is 14AWG.

hardtrailz

I know the truck wiring the LMC were intended for is too weak and they advise a harness, but the firebirds are said to not need the wiring upgrade.

Wonder how LED 9006 bulbs would shine out of the LMC. If I still have my old set laying around, maybe I can give them a test sometime.

VIP1

Which 9006 LED? Older style ones were bad and many of the newer ones aren't that good either. The only LED drop-ins I've seen that were OK replacements for a 9006 were ones that copied Philips design for their H11 and H4 series bulbs (H4 are hi/lo dual filament tho).

Some have different heatsink designs, but the basic emmitor arrangement looks like this:



Pretty much all the other copy brands really inflate their lumen ratings though. They quote the max lumen rating of the LEDs added up at max current from the LED spec sheet instead of what they are actually driving the LEDs at (which will be lower). I've seen conflicting info in their advertisements too. Such as claiming 60 watt combined output when the tech specs below that say 24 watt per bulb which means 48 watt total. That extra 12 watt in the Ad Title is imaginary marketing to make theirs look better than other listings.

Here is an example of one with a different heatsink and inflated claims:

hardtrailz

Halogen/HID/LED are all good at bullshit output claims. You just got to research what you buy as with anything. I have had plenty that either are different lumen or color temp than claimed.

I have a few different H1 LED bulbs but "think" I have a set of 9006 from a bit back someone gave me. Not sure which sink they have but thinking the ribbon style cooling.

I have the basic fin cooling design H1 LED in the truck installed in halogen based projectors and they seem to do pretty well. Better than halogen, but not up to HID output. But the halogen projector leaves dark spots with HID for some reason. Cheap light issues.

VIP1

The problem that often arises with LED drop in headlight bulbs is that the hot spot does away and you get extra foreground light, but lose distance light.

Some work alright and keep a close approximation of the original pattern. Others don't.

hardtrailz

I got both LMC lights in and they are a pleasure compared to stock. With the just the sylvania bulbs that come with them, it is a clearer brighter light. I did find a 9006 HID setup and a 9006 LED setup(but with some big cooling fins) that i will try at some point at least for pictures of out put. Likely be spring when it is warmer though.

I am glad to have done at least this upgrade though. My fogs look more yellow than the headlights when with stock sealed beams, the headlights were more yellow.

InfiniteReality

iTrader: (6)

Here's some of my testing of different housings with HIDs. I also tried out 5 different style bulbs with the last picture being the "best" (if you can call it that) bulb in a reflector housing.

Bosch RHD on left, LMC low on right. both with HIDs


Eurolight low beams on brothers car, 60mm Hella low beams on right. Both with HIDs


Bosch RHD housings with vinyl across bottom to reduce glare. HIDs


LMC in both low beam housings, HIDs


60mm Hella low beam projectors


BULBS

hardtrailz

Those Hellas do have a nice cutoff. One of these days i will go that route.

You did not try any LED bulbs though?

InfiniteReality

iTrader: (6)

Those paticular Hellas do have a nice cutoff, but the step they have is VERY annoying. Also don't run the latest Morimoto HIDs on them, the way the bulbs are designed and the limited space behind our headlight buckets, they break. I had both of my bulbs break, as well as 1 projector. The picture in my signature is with the Hellas.

No LEDs, I figured they'd likely be worse for the most part. I'd be interested in seeing some output shots if you ever do it.

_JB_

iTrader: (33)

X2 for the step on the 60mm Hellas, because of this I recommend NOT getting them. Not only are they annoying, but since the step is so high you cannot point them up enough otherwise you'll blind cars going around corners or cars on the right side of the road/intersection. The Hellas also do not light up the left side of the car as well as stock either because of the step.

They would probably be fine for high beams (if they could be adjusted high enough). Honestly I feel they were a waste of money and time, and plan on ditching them to try Morimoto D2S.

hardtrailz

let me know if you sell them. I would be interested in buying to at least play with or use on one of the other rigs.

pdxmotorhead

You get what you pay for with anything optical, there are plenty of companies that sell HID specific headlight conversion systems, some require cutting the sealer around the lens from the reflector but with some care you can have a nice setup.

No free-form reflector works with HID bulbs correctly. If you have un-fluted glass and faceted mirror like reflector its a free form light. (Ie: damn near anything currently sold... )

IMHO BI-Zenon bulbs are the best. They use a magnetic flap to control high and low beam so the bulbs last longer than the ones that turn on and off.

hardtrailz

If I did a custom build i think bi would be the way to go. I have been looking around here and HIDplanet and such for ideas. The flip-up headlights and somewhat lack of room is why I did a basic halogen upgrade for now, plus I had a sealed beam burnt out anyway so the justification was easy(and later they fit right in my Burban).
I was thinking I want to go with a BI projectors on a plate in the low spot and then stuff some kinda LED offroad light pod in the high beam spot for backroad usage. With the deer n such around here and the amount of country roads I drive I love my offroad LED on the truck and figure with the bI I would have spot for some