Storing The Car For Winter! Maybe STICKY Worthy?
#1
Storing The Car For Winter! Maybe STICKY Worthy?
Well I guess I will be the official poster for this topic Maybe just maybe this can be a sticky??
Here is the process that I am going to be going through. I will be as detailed as possible
- Fill the gas tank ALL THE WAY UP, and add a bottle of Sta-bil to it.
- Do an oil/filter change like you normally do, as well as fuel filter change. I am sure none of you changed it all year, now is the perfect time.
- Wash the motor. This is merely for your own sake of knowing that you have a clean motor under the cover. Also a clean motor is happy motor
- Obviously dry the motor, take it for a nice drive for A) to get rid of any standing water and B) this is the last drive of the year
- Wash the car with Dawn dish soap. Yes this will take OFF ANY WAX on the car
- Dry the car. I prefer to use a chamois
- Clay bar the car. This designed specifically for above surface bonded contaminants, such as tree sap mist, industrial fallout, over-spray, raod dirt/grime and road tar.
- Wax the car with a wax of your choice; this is a no brainier step. Do what you normally do here!
- After your done with the Exterior, now for the Interior. Detail the interior. Clean the dash, clean ALL glass, and vacuum every inch of the car.
- This step is where I clean my rims/tires. Wash the tires to get rid of any tire shine. Then I dry the rims, and polish them. I would not add tire shine when putting the car away for winter.
- Go over the car again to see if there is any water dripping from the rear taillights, under the mirrors etc, etc
- Air the tires up to 44 PSI, this will help stop flats spots being created for sitting in a particular spot for a long period of time.
- DO NOT JACK THE CAR UP! It is not good for the suspension, leave it on the gorund!
- Go over the car again, just spot-check everything.
- Don't forget the Damp Rid from Home Depot. This product takes any moisture out of the air inside the car. it fits perfectly in the cup holder of the center console.
- Stuff towels in your tail pipes and e-cut out. You do not want any critters making that their home
- At this point either A) disconnect your battery and take it in for storage or B) hook up a battery tender to it.
- Time to cover your baby up for a long cold 6 months. At this point kiss the car and say good night
This is all that I can think of for right now. If you guys have anything else to add or feel what I described is wrong let me know. And as for starting and driving the car, that is up to you. if you do that, you need to get the car all the way up to operating temps and drive it for a good 20 miles. This way you will burn up any condensation that is in the lines.
Here is the process that I am going to be going through. I will be as detailed as possible
- Fill the gas tank ALL THE WAY UP, and add a bottle of Sta-bil to it.
- Do an oil/filter change like you normally do, as well as fuel filter change. I am sure none of you changed it all year, now is the perfect time.
- Wash the motor. This is merely for your own sake of knowing that you have a clean motor under the cover. Also a clean motor is happy motor
- Obviously dry the motor, take it for a nice drive for A) to get rid of any standing water and B) this is the last drive of the year
- Wash the car with Dawn dish soap. Yes this will take OFF ANY WAX on the car
- Dry the car. I prefer to use a chamois
- Clay bar the car. This designed specifically for above surface bonded contaminants, such as tree sap mist, industrial fallout, over-spray, raod dirt/grime and road tar.
- Wax the car with a wax of your choice; this is a no brainier step. Do what you normally do here!
- After your done with the Exterior, now for the Interior. Detail the interior. Clean the dash, clean ALL glass, and vacuum every inch of the car.
- This step is where I clean my rims/tires. Wash the tires to get rid of any tire shine. Then I dry the rims, and polish them. I would not add tire shine when putting the car away for winter.
- Go over the car again to see if there is any water dripping from the rear taillights, under the mirrors etc, etc
- Air the tires up to 44 PSI, this will help stop flats spots being created for sitting in a particular spot for a long period of time.
- DO NOT JACK THE CAR UP! It is not good for the suspension, leave it on the gorund!
- Go over the car again, just spot-check everything.
- Don't forget the Damp Rid from Home Depot. This product takes any moisture out of the air inside the car. it fits perfectly in the cup holder of the center console.
- Stuff towels in your tail pipes and e-cut out. You do not want any critters making that their home
- At this point either A) disconnect your battery and take it in for storage or B) hook up a battery tender to it.
- Time to cover your baby up for a long cold 6 months. At this point kiss the car and say good night
This is all that I can think of for right now. If you guys have anything else to add or feel what I described is wrong let me know. And as for starting and driving the car, that is up to you. if you do that, you need to get the car all the way up to operating temps and drive it for a good 20 miles. This way you will burn up any condensation that is in the lines.
Last edited by TORCHD 02 TA; 10-11-2007 at 01:48 PM.
#5
if you want some ideas, check out the thread I wrote in the general maintenance section.
Trending Topics
#13
TECH Addict
iTrader: (61)
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: USA
Posts: 2,304
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Personally, I would wait till the beginning of the next season right before taking the car out for the first time to do the oil change.
For a car that is setting for a couple months during the winter the oil will tend to accumulate condensation due to the changing temps in the area it is stored (unless your garage is heated constantly) I only turn on the heat in my garage if I'm going to be working out there. Since you will not be driving the car and getting the oil up to temp. - the condensation will not be evaporated out.
So the best time to change your oil/filter, is right AFTER an extended storage time - that way you are getting rid of oil that contains water prior to starting up the car - instead of running the car for an entire season on oil that has been setting for months with water in it.
I know you stated to run the car up to temp for a while to burn off the condensation - by why bother doing that - why not just start the season with fresh oil that you know is good?
For a car that is setting for a couple months during the winter the oil will tend to accumulate condensation due to the changing temps in the area it is stored (unless your garage is heated constantly) I only turn on the heat in my garage if I'm going to be working out there. Since you will not be driving the car and getting the oil up to temp. - the condensation will not be evaporated out.
So the best time to change your oil/filter, is right AFTER an extended storage time - that way you are getting rid of oil that contains water prior to starting up the car - instead of running the car for an entire season on oil that has been setting for months with water in it.
I know you stated to run the car up to temp for a while to burn off the condensation - by why bother doing that - why not just start the season with fresh oil that you know is good?
#19
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Belton, TX
Posts: 694
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
you can jack the car up, just dont put have the suspension unloaded. (i.e. put the jackstands under the axle tubes so the suspension is still loaded.)
other than that, good info!
other than that, good info!