2004R Governor, full throttle upshift RPM
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2004R Governor, full throttle upshift RPM
I've got a Level Three 2004R built by Bowtie Overdrives in my 6.0 powered streetrod. At present, it shifts at full throttle auto at about 5200RPM. I would like for it to shift at 63-6500RPM automatically. And yes, I can manual shift it, but for various reasons which take too long to explain, I want it to shift auto. I called Bowtie and talked to one of their techs and he said he could rework a governor to shift higher but he could not promise me any certain RPM, or even approximately what RPM. Without calling every shop in the country, I don't have a clue who to call. Does anybody on here have any idea how I can set this up myself, or know of a shop that has done this? I would think a shop with a dyno to check transmissions could do this or is there something about this that makes it impossible?
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The 200-4r governor doesn't have pins like the 350/400/700 govs do. And what works on the regular GM style doesn't work on the 200-4R the same.
The 200-4R has an exhausting checkball governor design. There are only two weights, a primary and a secondary.
You will want to work on the smaller weight. First remove the spring from the large primary weight. Then remove weight from the smaller secondary weight a bit at a time to achieve the desired results.
The issue is that you will alter the part throttle shift points much more than the conventional GM governors do. They mostly affected WOT shifts, the 200-4R governor has more control of all throttle positions.
You can play with the TV limit valve to get part throttle back down but you can end up spending many hours modifying the governor and changing springs out in the VB.
The best setup going right now is a KC code VB and the Monte SS or GN governor. It results in 5800-6000 rom WOT shifts and proper part throttle manners.
You could mod the MCSS or GN governor and probably get the other 200-400 rpm.
The 200-4R has an exhausting checkball governor design. There are only two weights, a primary and a secondary.
You will want to work on the smaller weight. First remove the spring from the large primary weight. Then remove weight from the smaller secondary weight a bit at a time to achieve the desired results.
The issue is that you will alter the part throttle shift points much more than the conventional GM governors do. They mostly affected WOT shifts, the 200-4R governor has more control of all throttle positions.
You can play with the TV limit valve to get part throttle back down but you can end up spending many hours modifying the governor and changing springs out in the VB.
The best setup going right now is a KC code VB and the Monte SS or GN governor. It results in 5800-6000 rom WOT shifts and proper part throttle manners.
You could mod the MCSS or GN governor and probably get the other 200-400 rpm.
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I really appreciate the info guys. I guess I'm going to have to invest in a shop manual or some how-to literature on the 2004R. I have worked on Torque Flites and figured out how to do them, but I've never been inside a 2004R. Guess I'll have to learn. I was really hoping somebody would know of a shop that had done this or perhaps had them ready to go in various RPM ranges, such asthe one you mentioned, 5800-6000 or, say 6200-6400 or whatever. With all the Grand National racers out there, I would think somebody would know. Maybe they don't turn those little V6 motors that tight,LOL. Thanks guys! Ron
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I also specialize in the 200-4Rs. Chris is also excellent with them and may have the VB you need. I just sold 3 of the KC valve bodies that will yeild 6K shifts with the MCSS governor and don't have any more at the moment.
The GN guys don't spin the motors that tight usually, they make mucho torque down low with the turbos. They may go to 6K but not much more and if they do they manually shift or go to a TH400 for all out drag cars.
The GN guys don't spin the motors that tight usually, they make mucho torque down low with the turbos. They may go to 6K but not much more and if they do they manually shift or go to a TH400 for all out drag cars.
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I also specialize in the 200-4Rs. Chris is also excellent with them and may have the VB you need. I just sold 3 of the KC valve bodies that will yeild 6K shifts with the MCSS governor and don't have any more at the moment.
The GN guys don't spin the motors that tight usually, they make mucho torque down low with the turbos. They may go to 6K but not much more and if they do they manually shift or go to a TH400 for all out drag cars.
The GN guys don't spin the motors that tight usually, they make mucho torque down low with the turbos. They may go to 6K but not much more and if they do they manually shift or go to a TH400 for all out drag cars.
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Ron,
I'm not a supporting vendor so I can't post a link or business info here, and that is also why Dana "PBA" can't post links to CK Performance.
If you pull the pan off there may be a paint code on the VB, that would help alot because it could save you the trouble and expense of replacing the VB.
I'm not a supporting vendor so I can't post a link or business info here, and that is also why Dana "PBA" can't post links to CK Performance.
If you pull the pan off there may be a paint code on the VB, that would help alot because it could save you the trouble and expense of replacing the VB.
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No problem, *boss13*. Happy to help if I can. I'm probably not the guy to ask really, for this reason. I took the easy way out. I bought flexplate from Summit , A Hughes Performance #HP4004 and a set of Metric crank bolts to fit the LS2, and then I ordered a Precision Industries Vigilanti 3000 stall with lock-up, convertor and bolted it together. All the holes don't work on the housing but the alignment dowels and the main ones at the crank centerline do. As I recall, you leave 1 out and add one, but I can't say for sure. Anyway, it doesn't seem to cause any problems, at least not so far. I really like the 2004R because of the closer gear ratios, and then it also has a slightly higher OD ratio which works great with my 4.10 gears. If you are wanting to run a stock type convertor, I think you have to run a spacer on the crankshaft, but I'm going to have to let someone else explain that because I'm really not familiar with the details. Hope this helps. Ron
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No problem, *boss13*. Happy to help if I can. I'm probably not the guy to ask really, for this reason. I took the easy way out. I bought flexplate from Summit , A Hughes Performance #HP4004 and a set of Metric crank bolts to fit the LS2, and then I ordered a Precision Industries Vigilanti 3000 stall with lock-up, convertor and bolted it together. All the holes don't work on the housing but the alignment dowels and the main ones at the crank centerline do. As I recall, you leave 1 out and add one, but I can't say for sure. Anyway, it doesn't seem to cause any problems, at least not so far. I really like the 2004R because of the closer gear ratios, and then it also has a slightly higher OD ratio which works great with my 4.10 gears. If you are wanting to run a stock type convertor, I think you have to run a spacer on the crankshaft, but I'm going to have to let someone else explain that because I'm really not familiar with the details. Hope this helps. Ron
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Sort of. I'm running an Edelbrock #1407 carb on the GM intake, and also , I'm using L92 heads, which really doesn't make a difference, but just to explain. They sent me a "universal kit" which contained, what else?, a universal TV cable, a weird looking bracket for it and a small laser cut piece which fit on the side of the carb. I threw away the UGLY cable and weird bracket, but I did use the little laser cut bracket. I bought a LOKAR stainless TV cable and their carb bracket to use with it and it works fine and IMHO looks better. Bowtie does make other kits for several different carbs and even the LS1 FI setup. You can even get the LOKAR cables with them, I think. THey show them on their web-site. Ron
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thx for the info it did help.I also like my 200 it puts more horses to to the wheels according to its size and weight. I want to stay fuel injected so I'm gonna contact bowtie and see if they have any fabrications. Do u know the web address?
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Yes. First question, just the usual www and then Bowtie overdrives.com. Second question, yes. Just click on search at top of page and then type in 2004r tv cable on the drop down and click the dot for threads. You'll get a lot of info and somewhere in there you'll run onto a member with screen name of *LS1MCSS*. This guy has the exact info you need, including several pictures. Good luck! Ron
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The kit that Bowtie Overdrive has for an LS1 won't work on a throttle body newer than 99. The 99 and older throttle bodies have a smaller side plate on them and that is what the kit is designed to fit. If you use and aftermarket throttle body, or anything other than 98-99, you have to build a mounting point for the TV cable.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...e-bracket.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...e-bracket.html
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Sort of. I'm running an Edelbrock #1407 carb on the GM intake, and also , I'm using L92 heads, which really doesn't make a difference, but just to explain. They sent me a "universal kit" which contained, what else?, a universal TV cable, a weird looking bracket for it and a small laser cut piece which fit on the side of the carb. I threw away the UGLY cable and weird bracket, but I did use the little laser cut bracket. I bought a LOKAR stainless TV cable and their carb bracket to use with it and it works fine and IMHO looks better. Bowtie does make other kits for several different carbs and even the LS1 FI setup. You can even get the LOKAR cables with them, I think. THey show them on their web-site. Ron
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It's going to be hard to get the correct geometry with it hooked to the gas pedal. Having the correct geometry will make or break the life of the tranny. Here is a link with some drawings that you can look at.
http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sum...o/700R4p1.html
http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sum...o/700R4p1.html
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My bad. Sorry! I was on Bowtie's site the other night, and saw their fancy (read hi-dollar) kits that has the adjustable plate and braided stainless cable. I guess I just took it for granted it was made by LOKAR.