z99ls1

iTrader: (12)

So im pulling my tranny tommarow to put in my Circle D converter. Any advice about pulling the tranny or any advice at all would be good. I am hoping that I don't have to cut my y-pipe.

garygnu

install new seals.presoak all the exhaust bolts.do you have wobble extension?do you have a home made cradle for your jack?

z99ls1

iTrader: (12)

Like the seal in the back of the tranny? And I don't have any bolts on the exhaust. I have headers with ory so if I can't get the tranny down with the ory there I will have to cut it. Also I will be doing it on a lift and I will have a transmission jack.

Jays_SSZ28

iTrader: (2)

The Y pipe has to be disconnected somewhere to allow the engine to tip back far enough to reach the top and drivers side top bellhousing bolt.

Theres a seal in the front of the trans like the one in the back, the converter pump drive tube goes through it.

And leave the dipstick tube alone, take the stick out, drop the transmission out with the tube still bolted to the head, then when you put it back up, guide the tube in the hole.

NVR_SPDS

iTrader: (39)

If you want to, you can pull the intake to get the top bolt.. It can be a pain in the *** from the bottom.. BE careful with the stupid little e-clips too. They can vanish in a hurry.

z99ls1

iTrader: (12)

What if I cut the y-pipe on both sides behind the header flanges and cut where it goes into a single pipe a little further back and when I get the transmission back in I can just get it welded back. Will that work?

DSkyles

iTrader: (1)

i left my exhaust on....just dropped it off the hangers and dropped the panhard bar.

Anthony Williams

iTrader: (3)

Get the car up high as possible, I put mine up on flat bricks under the jackstands. Treat the torque converter bolts like it is a one shot try when removing them-use a high strength torques socket NOT ONE WITH A HOLE IN IT! and make sure you are square on them before you try and loosen them, and replace them. The TC needs to be fully seated, if it is too much space between the flexplate and TC you will need to shim the TC mount pads with some washers, I used hardend washers with ARP bolts as they are slightly longer than the stock bolts. And just my 2c I would replace my Flexplate with a SFI cert. one stock ones tend to crack, PM me if you want the name of mine that cost $60 bucks, and with the trans out replace the oil pressure sender if you have over 50k mi. Good luck

There are some good write ups in here on trans r

z99ls1

iTrader: (12)

Thanks guys. I will be doing it in school today hopfully. My goal is to get it done by 4 so I can pull tranny, get it back up and drive it back home with everything together. Might not happen since we usually don't get out to the shop tell 10am and this is the first day back, but who knows. Thanks for the advise and wish me luck lol

z99ls1

iTrader: (12)

Well I got to it after lunch today so I only had a cuple hours to wrok on it. I have all the bolts out on the belhousing, but the very top one. I am going to need to cut my exhaust so the transmission will tilt back a little further so I can get that very top one. Can I cut the exhaust off with a hack sall somewhat easily?

DSkyles

iTrader: (1)

Did you drop the panhard bar? I got an extra couple inches by doing that.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

How did it go? I hope you read the Installations guide at the top, pay particular attention to the converter spacing parts. I think with most after-market converters you will need to shim them. I had to with both of mine.

SS SLP2

iTrader: (8)

disconnect at the point the y pipe connects to the main pipe, the trans should then lower enough to reach the top bolt with a wobble and severl long exten and the trans will remove down betweel the y pipe
Johnny

LaBLKv6Z

iTrader: (13)

Pulled my trans last night, I had to cut my exhaust also. Made a cut about one foot after the Ory with an angle grinder but a recipricating saw would work. I also noticed that the rubber tubing on the MAF came loose when I tilted the engine back. You may want to remove it when you want to level the engine/trans back together. I used a pump through the dipstick tube to get the fluid out of the pan without a huge mess, worked great.

z99ls1

iTrader: (12)

yea I got it out and in today. I cut the pipe about a foot after the orry with a angle grinder. Now I have it all bolted to the motor, but I still need to check my spacing and stuff. It looks like about an 1/8", but i will be measuring it with the drill bit tommarow when im ready to bolt in the converter. After that I just need to fill it up and reconnect everything else.

Badazz 97 TA

iTrader: (18)

did you fill the new converter with fluid before you put it on?

z99ls1

iTrader: (12)

Yep, put in a quart

z99ls1

iTrader: (12)

Also should I have replaced the front seal in the transmission where the converter hub goes in?

LaBLKv6Z

iTrader: (13)

You should be alright, I'm changing mine since its only $4 and I'm waiting for the arrival of my circle D.

z99ls1

iTrader: (12)

I only have 40k on it now so I think it should be good. What Circle D stall did you go with?