need help 1st time 60e overhaul
02-20-2015, 08:38 PM
#1
need help 1st time 60e overhaul I have an 02 Silverado 5.3 4x4 4l60e with 215,000mi. It's my stock daily driver. It had developed a 3-4 flare about a month ago, so I r&r burnt fluid & filter and felt a slight change for the better. Also started saving as I'm on a real tight budget.
Yesterday it went to shift to 3rd and now i only have 1-2 and reverse.
It's parked in my drive now with a foot of snow but I do have a warm area to overhaul the trans at least! Planning on teardown this weekend and hopefully parts next week, then rebuild next weekend, install, then some pulls!
This is my first time removing and rebuilding a trans but I dont have a choice money wise I've only got about $800 and I'd love to have a higher stall converter.
Here's what I'm gathering as far as a order sheet.
Oregon performance master rebuild kit
Complete Bushing kit (makco transmission)
vette servo
Transgo boost valve
Transgo separator plate
Torlon check bals
Sonnax pinless fwd accumulator piston
I'm not sure if I'm missing things in the trans build but then I'd need a converter and clean out my cooler lines or buy and go standalone.
I do work my truck but not often, I've been babying the trans but i would love to be able to give it hell on the street often and know my trans should be fine and I've never had a high stall converter but i think I'd love it from what I've gathered.
Any tips or insight or leads to cheap quality part sources please let me know. I've gathered quite a bit of info offline I'm trying to sort through it
Yesterday it went to shift to 3rd and now i only have 1-2 and reverse.
It's parked in my drive now with a foot of snow but I do have a warm area to overhaul the trans at least! Planning on teardown this weekend and hopefully parts next week, then rebuild next weekend, install, then some pulls!
This is my first time removing and rebuilding a trans but I dont have a choice money wise I've only got about $800 and I'd love to have a higher stall converter.
Here's what I'm gathering as far as a order sheet.
Oregon performance master rebuild kit
Complete Bushing kit (makco transmission)
vette servo
Transgo boost valve
Transgo separator plate
Torlon check bals
Sonnax pinless fwd accumulator piston
I'm not sure if I'm missing things in the trans build but then I'd need a converter and clean out my cooler lines or buy and go standalone.
I do work my truck but not often, I've been babying the trans but i would love to be able to give it hell on the street often and know my trans should be fine and I've never had a high stall converter but i think I'd love it from what I've gathered.
Any tips or insight or leads to cheap quality part sources please let me know. I've gathered quite a bit of info offline I'm trying to sort through it
02-20-2015, 10:12 PM
#3
Could a screwed up maf or map cause this?
I feel like when i did knock sensors and intake gaskets/ air filter, cleaned tb and maf&map it was never as firm shifting.
I figured it was just the learned settings had cleared since the battery was unhooked over the weekend but it never got any better
I feel like when i did knock sensors and intake gaskets/ air filter, cleaned tb and maf&map it was never as firm shifting.
I figured it was just the learned settings had cleared since the battery was unhooked over the weekend but it never got any better
02-20-2015, 10:32 PM
#4
Moderator
A sensor problem can cause the PCM to command lower line pressure than it should, causing the clutches to slip and wear out.
However, I'm confident your 3/4 clutch is now toast.
Suggestions:
1. Make sure the rebuild kit has 7 frictions for the 3/4 clutch. If you specify a 4L65E rebuild kit it will always include 7 frictions and this is the only difference.
2. Get the Sonnax pinless 1-2 accumulator piston. While this works perfectly with the stock 1-2 accumulator springs, it does not work (without machining mods) with the Transgo HD2 1-2 accumulator springs. (Not sure about the Transgo shift improver kit, but I suspect not.). If you don't use it in the 1-2 accumulator, use it in the 3-4 accumulator.
Buy a trans pressure gauge - "ATD 5550" on Amazon for only $34. This will help ensure line pressure is good after the rebuild, ensuring you didn't make a mistake or have a sensor problem.
Here are some suggestions for a 1st time rebuild including books and tools:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...questions.html
I've helped a bunch of 1st timers here, but the initial success rate is perhaps 60%; the others had to remove the trans at least once to correct a mistake.
Don't want to discourage you, but it absolutely requires some special tools and the trans has over 200 different parts in it. If you miss one part, install it upside down or nick one seal, it won't work. Its kinda hard to forget a bearing in an engine rebuild, but it is easy to forget an o-ring in a trans rebuild.
However, I'm confident your 3/4 clutch is now toast.
Suggestions:
1. Make sure the rebuild kit has 7 frictions for the 3/4 clutch. If you specify a 4L65E rebuild kit it will always include 7 frictions and this is the only difference.
2. Get the Sonnax pinless 1-2 accumulator piston. While this works perfectly with the stock 1-2 accumulator springs, it does not work (without machining mods) with the Transgo HD2 1-2 accumulator springs. (Not sure about the Transgo shift improver kit, but I suspect not.). If you don't use it in the 1-2 accumulator, use it in the 3-4 accumulator.
Buy a trans pressure gauge - "ATD 5550" on Amazon for only $34. This will help ensure line pressure is good after the rebuild, ensuring you didn't make a mistake or have a sensor problem.
Here are some suggestions for a 1st time rebuild including books and tools:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...questions.html
I've helped a bunch of 1st timers here, but the initial success rate is perhaps 60%; the others had to remove the trans at least once to correct a mistake.
Don't want to discourage you, but it absolutely requires some special tools and the trans has over 200 different parts in it. If you miss one part, install it upside down or nick one seal, it won't work. Its kinda hard to forget a bearing in an engine rebuild, but it is easy to forget an o-ring in a trans rebuild.
02-21-2015, 02:08 PM
#5
Ok I'll get a pressure sensor.
I also am thinking i should geta return filter.
I feel great about being able to get this done the right way with all the info online and yall here on ls1tech. I've found trans go drill guides, suggestions and rebuild guides.
Im on the fence about the pinless
accumulator pistons vs the oem aluminum ones.
I was trying to avoid buying a shift kit and peicing together what's necessary
i don't think my kit comes with the check bal capsule I'll have to get that.
I also am thinking i should geta return filter.
I feel great about being able to get this done the right way with all the info online and yall here on ls1tech. I've found trans go drill guides, suggestions and rebuild guides.
Im on the fence about the pinless
accumulator pistons vs the oem aluminum ones.
I was trying to avoid buying a shift kit and peicing together what's necessary
i don't think my kit comes with the check bal capsule I'll have to get that.
02-21-2015, 04:17 PM
#6
Moderator
If the bores and the stock pins are fine, then the oem aluminum pistons are just fine. If the bores are worn, you really need the Sonnax pinless ones because the pistons have o-rings for good sealing.
The check ball capsule is #8634400, cheap and a good idea.
The check ball capsule is #8634400, cheap and a good idea.
02-23-2015, 10:48 PM
#7
The trans is out, I'm waiting on my torx plus 50 bit. And my pressure gauge. That'll be nice to have.
Been thinking about my list and making the nice converter happen with the budget. So I'm ditching some things. I'm now planning on.
Oregon performance master kit, i think this comes with a reinforced anchor band. And the 7 friction clutch pack but their not returning email to verify. Anyway that's $197
Also the sonnax performance pack. $158
vette servo $16
Circle d is $450 at first glance.
That's almost all the budget there.
I'm also trying to piece together the sonnax pak myself at a better price, any suggestions?
hoping my bushings and hard parts are in good shape. I know my trans electronics seemed fine.
Been thinking about my list and making the nice converter happen with the budget. So I'm ditching some things. I'm now planning on.
Oregon performance master kit, i think this comes with a reinforced anchor band. And the 7 friction clutch pack but their not returning email to verify. Anyway that's $197
Also the sonnax performance pack. $158
vette servo $16
Circle d is $450 at first glance.
That's almost all the budget there.
I'm also trying to piece together the sonnax pak myself at a better price, any suggestions?
hoping my bushings and hard parts are in good shape. I know my trans electronics seemed fine.
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02-24-2015, 10:57 AM
#8
Moderator
I would start with a 4L65E Master rebuild kit which includes the frictions, steels, bushings and molded pistons. Since the 6 friction 3/4 clutch lasted you 200,000 miles, the friction 3/4 clutch in the 4L65E kit should be plenty good. At 200,000+ miles I'm confident you need new bushings.
I just checked on the Transtar (the distributor many shops use) pricing this morning, and I think any local cooperative trans shop can sell you the master kit for $150 while still making a few dollars. Emphasize you will not be asking them for help.
A carbon band should be less than $25 even with some markup.
You really should get the Transgo separator plate (#46-96?) too for another $25. The trans filter costs them less than $10.
Since a shop orders parts several times per week (if not daily) they should be able to add those parts to an order without increasing the shipping cost.
The Sonnax performance pack has lots of nice parts that you will use. (Transtar may or may not sell that at a good price.)
And a Vette servo. And the check ball capsule ($6?).
I just checked on the Transtar (the distributor many shops use) pricing this morning, and I think any local cooperative trans shop can sell you the master kit for $150 while still making a few dollars. Emphasize you will not be asking them for help.
A carbon band should be less than $25 even with some markup.
You really should get the Transgo separator plate (#46-96?) too for another $25. The trans filter costs them less than $10.
Since a shop orders parts several times per week (if not daily) they should be able to add those parts to an order without increasing the shipping cost.
The Sonnax performance pack has lots of nice parts that you will use. (Transtar may or may not sell that at a good price.)
And a Vette servo. And the check ball capsule ($6?).
02-24-2015, 07:32 PM
#9
I have an 02 Silverado 5.3 4x4 4l60e with 215,000mi. It's my stock daily driver. It had developed a 3-4 flare about a month ago, so I r&r burnt fluid & filter and felt a slight change for the better. Also started saving as I'm on a real tight budget.
Yesterday it went to shift to 3rd and now i only have 1-2 and reverse.
It's parked in my drive now with a foot of snow but I do have a warm area to overhaul the trans at least! Planning on teardown this weekend and hopefully parts next week, then rebuild next weekend, install, then some pulls!
This is my first time removing and rebuilding a trans but I dont have a choice money wise I've only got about $800 and I'd love to have a higher stall converter.
Here's what I'm gathering as far as a order sheet.
Oregon performance master rebuild kit
Complete Bushing kit (makco transmission)
vette servo
Transgo boost valve
Transgo separator plate
Torlon check bals
Sonnax pinless fwd accumulator piston
I'm not sure if I'm missing things in the trans build but then I'd need a converter and clean out my cooler lines or buy and go standalone.
I do work my truck but not often, I've been babying the trans but i would love to be able to give it hell on the street often and know my trans should be fine and I've never had a high stall converter but i think I'd love it from what I've gathered.
Any tips or insight or leads to cheap quality part sources please let me know. I've gathered quite a bit of info offline I'm trying to sort through it
Yesterday it went to shift to 3rd and now i only have 1-2 and reverse.
It's parked in my drive now with a foot of snow but I do have a warm area to overhaul the trans at least! Planning on teardown this weekend and hopefully parts next week, then rebuild next weekend, install, then some pulls!
This is my first time removing and rebuilding a trans but I dont have a choice money wise I've only got about $800 and I'd love to have a higher stall converter.
Here's what I'm gathering as far as a order sheet.
Oregon performance master rebuild kit
Complete Bushing kit (makco transmission)
vette servo
Transgo boost valve
Transgo separator plate
Torlon check bals
Sonnax pinless fwd accumulator piston
I'm not sure if I'm missing things in the trans build but then I'd need a converter and clean out my cooler lines or buy and go standalone.
I do work my truck but not often, I've been babying the trans but i would love to be able to give it hell on the street often and know my trans should be fine and I've never had a high stall converter but i think I'd love it from what I've gathered.
Any tips or insight or leads to cheap quality part sources please let me know. I've gathered quite a bit of info offline I'm trying to sort through it
02-24-2015, 10:11 PM
#10
I'm a little bit worried about not having a warranty, but i do feel confident i can get it done right, and as long as i get the right parts i should be able to inspect everything thoroughly and call out issues. Although i may very well end up over budget and have to rethink the converter. Hell I may even get to a point were a reman with verter with three year warranty at advance is more logical for 1350.
There is tons of info I'm looking through also. I've been doing a lot of thinking haha.
Also I am now planning on something right along these lines.
trutech transmission level 1 kit $250
sonnax performance pack $155
Vette servo $ 15
There is tons of info I'm looking through also. I've been doing a lot of thinking haha.
Also I am now planning on something right along these lines.
trutech transmission level 1 kit $250
sonnax performance pack $155
Vette servo $ 15
Last edited by severancej; 02-24-2015 at 10:20 PM.
02-24-2015, 10:43 PM
#11
Moderator
You also need some special spring compressors.
Replacing the teflon seals without special tools is tricky, especially for a newbie.
When you open the pump halves, post pics of the pump surfaces and we can determine if they can be reused or need to be resurfaced or replaced.
Need to check wear on the inside of the reverse drum.
I'm also not trying to discourage you, but it takes experience to examine various parts to determine if they can be reused to need to be replaced.
It is unlikely you will save money trying to rebuild the trans yourself; there are just too many details that you trip you. Plus a few hundred dollars for the special tools.
Replacing the teflon seals without special tools is tricky, especially for a newbie.
When you open the pump halves, post pics of the pump surfaces and we can determine if they can be reused or need to be resurfaced or replaced.
Need to check wear on the inside of the reverse drum.
I'm also not trying to discourage you, but it takes experience to examine various parts to determine if they can be reused to need to be replaced.
It is unlikely you will save money trying to rebuild the trans yourself; there are just too many details that you trip you. Plus a few hundred dollars for the special tools.
Last edited by mrvedit; 03-04-2015 at 10:23 PM.
02-25-2015, 03:12 AM
#12
So far tonight, I've made what's going to be my spring compressor. As soon as i get the case opened up I'll be able to get it perfect. No problem!
I cut the heads off 2 M6 1.0 metric bolts to guide my valve body back on.
I've built a makeshift trans cradle for floor jack saddle.
Also i found some info on trans-go drill sizes for each hole in separator plate and some suggestions on modifying those sizes for a stall, from Dana supposedly, I'll post it even if my rebuild fails my thread might help others. There's also some hocus pocus sounding tips which I'm not sure I'll do our not. Here's the link, let me know what yall think.
http://www.pacificp.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7235&view=next
I'm feeling confident guys, I've had my hands in quite a number of machines, vehicles, and motorcycles to much success. I appreciate the insight and forewarning haha.
I cut the heads off 2 M6 1.0 metric bolts to guide my valve body back on.
I've built a makeshift trans cradle for floor jack saddle.
Also i found some info on trans-go drill sizes for each hole in separator plate and some suggestions on modifying those sizes for a stall, from Dana supposedly, I'll post it even if my rebuild fails my thread might help others. There's also some hocus pocus sounding tips which I'm not sure I'll do our not. Here's the link, let me know what yall think.
http://www.pacificp.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7235&view=next
I'm feeling confident guys, I've had my hands in quite a number of machines, vehicles, and motorcycles to much success. I appreciate the insight and forewarning haha.
02-25-2015, 08:43 AM
#13
Moderator
OK, it sounds like you know what you are getting into and have the enthusiasm to tackle it. A bunch of members here have recently rebuilt their first trans and are very proud of it.
PM me if you get stuck - PMs get emailed to me and I am always on email.
PM me if you get stuck - PMs get emailed to me and I am always on email.
03-04-2015, 01:12 PM
#16
Moderator
Yeah, looks OK to me.
Post pictures of the inside of the pump halves where the pump rotor spins. I don't have the experience to evaluate them, but the pro builders here do and, if necessary, I will forward them to one.
Verify that the inside of the Reverse drum is perfectly smooth; this is were the teflon rings on the stator shaft run.
Post pictures of the inside of the pump halves where the pump rotor spins. I don't have the experience to evaluate them, but the pro builders here do and, if necessary, I will forward them to one.
Verify that the inside of the Reverse drum is perfectly smooth; this is were the teflon rings on the stator shaft run.
03-04-2015, 03:52 PM
#17
Hey, another guy with a Chevy truck!
We're in a similar boat, although on my 96' Silverado the 3rd and 4th gear are gone. I'm rebuilding with a kit from Trutech. I had already bought a bunch of valve body stuff for a VB overhaul/reman already and then before I could bother doing it the transmission took a dump, so I got a rebuild kit.
We're in a similar boat, although on my 96' Silverado the 3rd and 4th gear are gone. I'm rebuilding with a kit from Trutech. I had already bought a bunch of valve body stuff for a VB overhaul/reman already and then before I could bother doing it the transmission took a dump, so I got a rebuild kit.
03-04-2015, 06:04 PM
#18
Cool I'm definitely excited to get this done, I'm missing getting out and playing in the snow we keep getting.
I ended up getting
Level 1 kit
new complete valve body
Shift improver kit, which is the vette servo, springs, separator plate, And accumulators.
Rev input drum
4 Pinon rear planet
Ovverrun hub and the bronze sprag Bushing (these two had worn together badly, not sure why but the actual sprag and it's races were fine?)
I was thinking about a trailblazer converter, I've heard it may keep the truck a bit more into its power band, and their cheap cheap like a hundo. If not I'll go stock as a rock, my budgets all gone for any good converter. .
I ended up getting
Level 1 kit
new complete valve body
Shift improver kit, which is the vette servo, springs, separator plate, And accumulators.
Rev input drum
4 Pinon rear planet
Ovverrun hub and the bronze sprag Bushing (these two had worn together badly, not sure why but the actual sprag and it's races were fine?)
I was thinking about a trailblazer converter, I've heard it may keep the truck a bit more into its power band, and their cheap cheap like a hundo. If not I'll go stock as a rock, my budgets all gone for any good converter. .
03-04-2015, 08:11 PM
#20
Moderator
Your pump looks good, much better than I expected.
When assembling, remember the O-ring and metal ring on the bottom of the pump slide.
Remember the filter on the side of the pump.
Are you going to replace the stock pump spring with a stiffer high RPM spring?
Getting the spring in can be a challenge. Last time I squeezed it with Channel locks smaller than the space, positioned it over the space and with one quick tap of hammer it slid right in.
When assembling, remember the O-ring and metal ring on the bottom of the pump slide.
Remember the filter on the side of the pump.
Are you going to replace the stock pump spring with a stiffer high RPM spring?
Getting the spring in can be a challenge. Last time I squeezed it with Channel locks smaller than the space, positioned it over the space and with one quick tap of hammer it slid right in.