RollinSScamaro

iTrader: (25)

I have been doing some searching and trying to figure out the proper bolts to buy. I keep reading about some being too short. Sounds like the ARP's may not work. Will stock length work? Any input or part numbers would be greatly appreciated. None of my parts come with new bolts due to being used. Thanks!

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

My suggestion is, measure the depth of your hole in your converter foot. Figure out your flexplate depth plus any shims need to get the converter spacing correct. Then add that up, and get the closest length bolt but one size smaller for maximum engagement. Alternatively, you can get a longer bolt and cut it just a tad short of your measurement. Example. Converter hole .75, flexplate .25, washers .10. Total 1.10. Buy a bolt thats 1.00 and youre golden. Or if 1.00 isnt available get a 1.25 and cut it back to 1.00.

Circle-D_Brian

20mm UHL 10x1.5 is probably what you need. Shoot for grade 10.9 or above. I think ARP makes a nice 20mm UHL bolt. As suggested above, measure and double check. On a side note, sand the coating off the flexplate where the converter pad sets. We have seen that wear and loosen your converter over time.

-Brian

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

try the bolts first in the convertor before it goes up in the car. I've encountered different sizes along the way. OEM was M10x1.50,TCI 2800 was M11x1.50,don't remember what the Yank SS3600 was.

roninsonic

iTrader: (3)

THIS.

I have a TCI as well. They're a little thick.

Just use a vernier caliper like a depth mic and measure how deep the blind holes in the converter are, measure the thickness of your flexplate, add those two together, add in shim thickness if you need them, and subtract 30 thousandths or so. BOOM, that's how long of a bolt you need. Get 10.9 or better. I got nice cadmium coated 10.9's at ace with a flange style head, worked great.

RollinSScamaro

iTrader: (25)

OK great info guys. Now how difficult will this be if it take it to a Trans shop? Is this something I can figure out before taking it to them? I wouldn't of thought it would be such a big deal to get correct bolts lol. Is it like this with any flex plate upgrade due to thickness? I appreciate all of the help

RollinSScamaro

iTrader: (25)

I guess it was mentioned this can be mocked up before install.. just put the converter and flex plate together and start making measurements? I can maybe get the thread pitch and size from yank. Any other thoughts? Thanks

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

as with any flexplate upgrade or any torque convertor installation,distance from convertor pads to bellhousing surface is critical to ensure proper transmission pump engagement and then that distance is calculated,along with proper thickness of shims(between flexplate and convertor pads) and thickness of flexplate is used to acquire needed bolt length.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Correct, unfourtunately you need the trans mated to the engine. However, you can get your converter and flexplate measurement first and have those ahead of time. Most likely you will need a shim. So, to prepare ahead of time you could do this, get a bolt the exact length of the converter hole and flexplate depth. Most likely won't find one so get three and cut them exact. Then, when you add your shim, it will put you at a good engagement depth into your converter foot. Since its a blind hole and not very deep this is important.

RollinSScamaro

iTrader: (25)

OK thanks guys. I'll try to get the bolt depths figured out and talk with a transmission shop to see what all they can do for me as far as shims and install. Being I've never done Trans work myself it's harder to understand but I'm starting to put and picture together in my head of what you guys are talking about. I really appreciate the help. If anyone else has input to add feel free. Thanks

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...allations.html

roninsonic

iTrader: (3)

It's SUPER easy, man. If you have basic hand tools, a jack, and some jackstands, it's easy as hell... Although a tranny jack makes it even easier. If you want to try tackling it yourself, let me know. I've got a pretty good transmission install guide from a vendor on here that I've annotated and made notes (such as torque values, what locktight, measurements, and such) that I could give you.

As far as converter to pad distance, ect...

1) Fully seat the converter into the tranny. Should be three distinct drops. The third one can be a bitch. Just keep twisting the converter and jerking it a bit, it'll eventually go. Once it's in all the way, measure the distance from the face of the bellhousing to the pads on the converter. Should be around 1.125". As long as it's over an inch, you got that third clunk and you're good.

2) once you've got the tranny bolted to the block, push the converter as far into the tranny with your hand as you can and get a bolt hole lined up. Use drill bits to measure the gap between the flexplate and the converter pad. General rule of thumb is between 60 and 187 thousandths is good, any more and add a 60 thousandths shim between the flexplate and converter.(SAE grade 10 washer at the parts store are usually pretty close to that, buy a package if needed and measure thickness to get a matched set).

OR... you can be **** retentive like me and do things like aim for 125 thousandths on the nose or order shims from mcmaster carr in the exact size you want.

For real, super easy.

RollinSScamaro

iTrader: (25)

Thanks guys. It's making it half tempting to do it myself and save some cash. My biggest concern is getting the right bolts and shimming properly.. I'd really hate to screw it up and cost myself some serious problems. Do you have a link to the install guide? Maybe reading it more will make me feel more confident doing it myself.

RollinSScamaro

iTrader: (25)

This is great info! Thanks