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I addressed the different overrun spring cages in post 33 and 34 of my rebuild thread as well as the part number.
In my case, my new steel pistons didn't have the nubs to lock in the spring cage, so I ordered the new style spring case and everything worked just fine. My 4l60e was a '96.
Ok, thanks. Ya I have read threw your thread but really should read threw it again. Lots going on and a bit overwhelming lol. I have so many pages open right now on my phone.
How's your tranny working out for ya? Still going strong?
The 700r4l60e kit uses thicker steels but then has to use a very thin backing plate and snap ring.
Clinebarger, Dynamic396 and many other builders prefer to use the max thickness apply and backing plates to reduce the chance of coning. That requires using thinner steels as listed in post #36.
I don't have the experience to say which is better; just pointing out the difference.
And "better" might depend upon whether your priority is 100,000+ street miles or hundreds of track runs.
The 700r4l60e kit uses thicker steels but then has to use a very thin backing plate and snap ring.
Clinebarger, Dynamic396 and many other builders prefer to use the max thickness apply and backing plates to reduce the chance of coning. That requires using thinner steels as listed in post #36.
I don't have the experience to say which is better; just pointing out the difference.
And "better" might depend upon whether your priority is 100,000+ street miles or hundreds of track runs.
Ok, thanks for the explanation on the reason for using thicker vs thinner steels.
As far as my car's use...... I really do drive it hard, a lot of track sessions and once a year I go to power cruise where I run it pretty hard on a road course with many up and down shifts
So I would say my priority is track runs. I would say I only put 3-5,000 mi. on a season, "weekend worrier" with quite a few track outings/street dig runs
Info about the forward sprag given to me by PBA. I don’t think he will mind me sharing it.
The later 29 element sprag from Borg Warner has wider elements PN is A74658D (Transtar number). The elements are 12.7% wider than the normal BW sprag. It is a "dual cage" and one of the cages is nylon, and the other has bronze guides instead of the steel ones. It must be used with a 4L60E overrun hub.
I found the sprag you mention above but you say I must use the the 4l60e overrun hub, as opposed to what? I'm assuming that's what mine is......
Like most new things on ebay, it is available much cheaper elsewhere.
Google "35034 4L60E TRANSMISSION GASKET KIT 1993-2003" from a Transmission Parts store. You might see other kits you like there too.
Or ask at a local trans shop. I think Transtar charges about $27 for that kit.
3-4 clutch return spring
Forward clutch spring assembly
Forward sprag to input drum torrington bearing
Billet fwd piston
3-4 bonded rubber piston
Besides the billet forward piston and forward apply plate nothing else is ordered. What do you guys think? A good start to place the order?
On a "Bolt-On" car that sees a lot of Road Racing....I find the STOCK 6 Friction stack with .080" High Energies & .106" Steels holds up better to constant cycling/Severe heat than any other set-up. The 7 Friction Stack I mention earlier has served me well up to 600hp in Street/Strip vehicles & some 500HP Track cars. You have to stop & think of all the 100,000 plus mile 4L60E's behind "Bolt-on" Engines that are out there getting the snot beat out of them without 3-4 failures.
Good Pressure, Pressure Rise & Hydraulic Integrity is the key to success here.
Why Alto Red Forwards? While they work in this application....I doubt someone could prove they work better than Stock Borg Warner's at half the price???
Originally Posted by 98CayenneT/A
I found the sprag you mention above but you say I must use the the 4l60e overrun hub, as opposed to what? I'm assuming that's what mine is......
Probably means you cant use a 700R4 Overrun Hub, Not a concern for you.
Why Alto Red Forwards? While they work in this application....I doubt someone could prove they work better than Stock Borg Warner's at half the price???
No reason specifically, I jumped the gun a bit due to struggling to find forward clutches then went back threw performabuilts parts and as I thought I looked many times but must of missed them because they were right in front of my face, the BW forward clutches and overruns. Rookie mistake for I would prefer the BW HE. Just got a little ahead of myself and impatient I think
Off the list I posted the 3-4 setup is the only thing I did not order yet. Should I cancel the alto reds and go with the BW forwards instead?
Last edited by 98CayenneT/A; 03-19-2016 at 10:09 PM.
Ok, thanks. Ya I have read threw your thread but really should read threw it again. Lots going on and a bit overwhelming lol. I have so many pages open right now on my phone.
How's your tranny working out for ya? Still going strong?
Still awesome and approaching the 15,000 mile mark. Fluid's clear as the day I poured it in.
Just a heads up that I'm on a "Road Trip" with my wife and two dogs for the next 8 days. Destination is North Carolina; goal is to hike in areas where he dogs can run loose.
(If you know of good hiking paths there, PM me.)
I probably won't be posting much here this coming week, but I know Clinebarger will take good care of you and he knows 100x more about transmissions than I do anyway.
Just a heads up that I'm on a "Road Trip" with my wife and two dogs for the next 8 days. Destination is North Carolina; goal is to hike in areas where he dogs can run loose.
(If you know of good hiking paths there, PM me.)
I probably won't be posting much here this coming week, but I know Clinebarger will take good care of you and he knows 100x more about transmissions than I do anyway.
Ok, thanks for the help up to this point, I really do appreciate it. Have fun, hiking in beautiful country is awesome.
As of right now I'm just waiting for parts for the input drum and probably won't start anything new for not wanting to confuse myself and so stuff stays somewhat organized in my work area, I think I finally got the input drum parts and sequence down in my head and making sense. I'm actually having fun so far. Crazy someone thought of this to make a car go forward lol......just a rookie thought
Also checked a few things a little closer... I do not have a digital caliper at this moment but down in the picture below it seems I have about a .005" - .007" step on the input shaft where the arrow is pointing. Also after looking closer, the input shaft to pump bushings have some wear and minor scoring.
I'm assuming the shaft absolutely needs replaced and obviously the pump bushings.
Just a heads up that I'm on a "Road Trip" with my wife and two dogs for the next 8 days. Destination is North Carolina; goal is to hike in areas where he dogs can run loose.
(If you know of good hiking paths there, PM me.)
I probably won't be posting much here this coming week, but I know Clinebarger will take good care of you and he knows 100x more about transmissions than I do anyway.
Don't forget the Carolina-style pulled pork and bbq sauce!
Another question, if I get a new input shaft and drum, I will be using the billet aluminum forward piston and the aluminum overrun piston. So if I get the sonnax reinforcement sleeve kit I would need the one for aluminum forward piston and aluminum overrun correct? 77733-02K ? And if this is correct..... Why is it so much cheaper than the sleeve kit used for steel forward and steel overrun pistons?
Checked the 3-4 check ball capsule today with absolutely no leaking. Should I still replace it?
If it's not leaking, Leave it be.
Originally Posted by 98CayenneT/A
Also checked a few things a little closer... I do not have a digital caliper at this moment but down in the picture below it seems I have about a .005" - .007" step on the input shaft where the arrow is pointing. Also after looking closer, the input shaft to pump bushings have some wear and minor scoring.
I'm assuming the shaft absolutely needs replaced and obviously the pump bushings.
That doesn't look very bad at all, But without inspecting it myself...It's difficult to give a 100% go ahead. Always replace both Stator Bushings!
Originally Posted by 98CayenneT/A
Another question, if I get a new input shaft and drum, I will be using the billet aluminum forward piston and the aluminum overrun piston. So if I get the sonnax reinforcement sleeve kit I would need the one for aluminum forward piston and aluminum overrun correct? 77733-02K ? And if this is correct..... Why is it so much cheaper than the sleeve kit used for steel forward and steel overrun pistons?
77733-02K is a service kit for people in your situation....That needs to swap the Drum but doesn't need an entire kit. Only comes with a Sleeve & Inner piston seal.
Last edited by clinebarger; 03-20-2016 at 07:53 PM.
03-19-2016, 10:11 AM
