High stall TC guys, turn off your lockup TC!!!!
#1
High stall TC guys, turn off your lockup TC!!!!
This was one of the best things I have done. Had lockup programmed out with HP tuners and the car runs so much smoother. It's almost unbelievable. I have an 02 ss with the 3.23's and at 70-75 cruise in highway rpm's are roughly 2,200-2,300. What is fun is if you give it a little throttle the car goes forward as you would expect but the rpm's climb up to 3,000 or so and with long tubes, no cats and borla's it sounds awesome. Back off the throttle and nice and quiet. Have a 3,800 TCI in it. No way I's ever go back to the rattling, bucking and noisy lockup. I really have seen little to any rpm increase other than maybe 300 rpms at cruise. Around town you can tell the difference at all other than the freer revving motor. Kickdowns down are awesome too.
#4
I am sure it will use some more gas, but this is a 3rd car for me. Have a real good tranny cooler and the fans come on early. The car drives so much smoother and is so much more responsive, it is worth every penny of additional gas!!!
#6
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Install the Trans-Go HD2 kit and you can have your lockup...
After that, program your lockup speeds and shift points to your liking. I really don't recommend driving around town unlocked all the time with all that slippage.
After that, program your lockup speeds and shift points to your liking. I really don't recommend driving around town unlocked all the time with all that slippage.
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Just a thing I've always wondered, as I'm very ignorant when it comes to these things. How much more gas does the car use when its unlocked. I assumed its RPM/distance that determines what kind of gas mileage the car gets. But with the TC locked the rpms stay above 1500 even when I let off the throttle, as where unlocked the drop to 600.
I have my TC programed to lock up at 30 in D and 38 in OD and the way I drive I attempt to keep it locked as much as possible. Kep it in D so it locks at 30 till about 40-45, then let of the gas, shift to OD and coast for 3 seconds giving it enough time for it to lock in OD just when I give it more gas. Is this helping or hurting me, because I still only get 18 mpg (80%city 20%hwy)?
I have my TC programed to lock up at 30 in D and 38 in OD and the way I drive I attempt to keep it locked as much as possible. Kep it in D so it locks at 30 till about 40-45, then let of the gas, shift to OD and coast for 3 seconds giving it enough time for it to lock in OD just when I give it more gas. Is this helping or hurting me, because I still only get 18 mpg (80%city 20%hwy)?
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#9
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I'll leave mine on, with 3.42's crusing on the highway the raspy drone would make me go deaf. Besides, I set my minimum lockup point to 50mph so it's off until I hit the highway anyhow.
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Originally Posted by vMaster0fPuppets
Just a thing I've always wondered, as I'm very ignorant when it comes to these things. How much more gas does the car use when its unlocked. I assumed its RPM/distance that determines what kind of gas mileage the car gets. But with the TC locked the rpms stay above 1500 even when I let off the throttle, as where unlocked the drop to 600.
I have my TC programed to lock up at 30 in D and 38 in OD and the way I drive I attempt to keep it locked as much as possible. Kep it in D so it locks at 30 till about 40-45, then let of the gas, shift to OD and coast for 3 seconds giving it enough time for it to lock in OD just when I give it more gas. Is this helping or hurting me, because I still only get 18 mpg (80%city 20%hwy)?
I have my TC programed to lock up at 30 in D and 38 in OD and the way I drive I attempt to keep it locked as much as possible. Kep it in D so it locks at 30 till about 40-45, then let of the gas, shift to OD and coast for 3 seconds giving it enough time for it to lock in OD just when I give it more gas. Is this helping or hurting me, because I still only get 18 mpg (80%city 20%hwy)?
#13
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All of these symptoms just point to the tune and not
the converter. Turning it off is just giving up. If you
want it to jump up when you give it gas, fix the lock
and shift points. If you want it not to buck, get your
fuel and spark right (or unlock before you get to the
place that's mis-tuned). If your lockup is noisy then
fix the apply pressure / PWM. It takes some time to
school it (which a session tune may not want to
spend) but there's nothing difficult about it, just a
lot of personalized preference tweaking.
the converter. Turning it off is just giving up. If you
want it to jump up when you give it gas, fix the lock
and shift points. If you want it not to buck, get your
fuel and spark right (or unlock before you get to the
place that's mis-tuned). If your lockup is noisy then
fix the apply pressure / PWM. It takes some time to
school it (which a session tune may not want to
spend) but there's nothing difficult about it, just a
lot of personalized preference tweaking.
#14
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I deleted 3rd gear lock-up and have it set for 42mph in 4th. That way 3rd is always available for max power short bursts, and 4th is set for cruising at a speed where it doesn't bog. I've always understood that extended cruising unlocked at highway speeds will overheat and thus fry your transmission - I think you're playing Russian Roulette with this one.
#15
It may be that the tranny will get hotter. Have not noticed the temp to increase at all on the tranny temp gauge. Weren't all older transmissions non-lockup 10 years or so ago? If I bought a th350 or th400 those don't have lockups right?
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agreed they were non-lockup, but if im not mistaken they can take QUITE a bit more abuse/heat than the 4l60 . not saying you are gonna hurt anything just stating that the car will use more gas and the trans will get hotter.
again- to each his own, but most people will take advantage of the lockup if they got it..
again- to each his own, but most people will take advantage of the lockup if they got it..
#17
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Those old non-lockup transmissions came with
converters in the 1000-1500RPM stall speed range.
The people who drive them on the street would
tend to use 2000-2500RPM stall speed converters
for "street/strip" duty depending on highway RPM.
A far cry from what we get away with, having
lockup as an option for the highway.
converters in the 1000-1500RPM stall speed range.
The people who drive them on the street would
tend to use 2000-2500RPM stall speed converters
for "street/strip" duty depending on highway RPM.
A far cry from what we get away with, having
lockup as an option for the highway.
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Yeah turning off lockup is bad advice cuz I have been there done that and know I need lockup. My damn tranny right now runs so damn hot without a lockup. Also I think non lockup with an A3 doesn't quite have this heat problem cuz you're running the engine and tranny at a 1:1 ratio. In OD, trans is turning faster than the engine and creates a lot more heat. Is that right? That makes sense in my head anyway.