VORTECFCAR

iTrader: (2)

It's not going so hot, I just pulled it out because I had a 2-3 flare at WOT that I couldn't track down. I had another fresh stocker laying around that I'm running in the car right now.

I'll be going back into the one I built once I get some motivation. I'm just ******' annoyed with it right now.

dknight16

Dipstick stop

VORTECFCAR

iTrader: (2)

Thanks.

As an update, I'm waiting on a new seperator plate from Probuilt to try to fix the flare issue. Sorry for the dissapointing end to the thread so far.

8a8mfh

iTrader: (3)

But what a coincidence, I bought a 3-4 clutch set from him and used his suggested seperator hole sizes and guess what my trans did? YEA 2-3 flare!
Guess what else, pull that piece of **** 3-4 set out of there and take a pic of it, I'm dying to see it, I bet it has burn marks ONLY where the apply tangs are---meaning the bottom plate, the one that sits on top of the plate with the tangs is too thin.
I'll post pics of mine if you post pics of yours. Toss the piece of ****, put the thick original one back in and as many frictions as you can fit, I fit only one or two more than stock and used the thick top plate also.
Then drill the holes that transgo says to drill to .093 to .093, not to whatever whoever tells you to drill them to.
At least thats what I did, and it worked perfect.

PBA

The thin 5 finger apply ring (.052"-.055" thick) requires the .128 flat pressure plate to sit on top of it. This was used in almost all 700R4's. You cannot have this thin 5 finger apply ring as a apply plate against the clutch, it will not work. In 1993 GM went to a one piece (apx. .223" thick) apply plate. I use both setups. Changing to the one piece will not effect the apply of the clutches, it is just a different type of apply pressure plate setup. The clutch clearance has a lot to do with the clutches having a 2-3 flare. The band release hole if too large when combined with a larger 3rd gear feed hole can do this also. The .093" 3rd gear apply hole works most of the time, but where the HP is high I have found that you need to go larger on the 3rd apply and smaller on the band release hole. Does this work every time? No, the same for the .093" apply does not work for certain applications. TransGo went with the small hole .093" for a couple of reasons, torque management and they got tired of trying to help people when they started to go over 450-500HP. They left this field to the ones who specialize in these units. The TransGo Performance Shift kit has gone through many changes over the years, trying to make it a one size fits all type of Shift kit. They are already making another change to this kit.

8a8mfh

iTrader: (3)

No ****. I put your set up in the transmission as it came. IMO it doesn't matter why it slips, if it burns only the small area where the tangs are it's too thin.

VORTECFCAR

iTrader: (2)

I'd like to pull the thing back apart and check to see if the are signs of wear like you said 8a8mfh and I might when I get some time. Honestly, this project was supposed to be something that I did over the winter and had in my car for the summer to enjoy.

Naturally, it turned into a big steaming ball of **** that cost me nearly a grand and rediculous amount of time.

Meanwhile, I'm running a stock trans with a super servo that I'm scared to beat too hard for fear of ruining my fun altogether and having two broken trans' laying around.

If anyone wants to buy this thing and continue to the legacy I'm open to offers.

Going back to stock will probably be next years winter project. How bad can I **** that up.

Kiss_My_99SS

iTrader: (8)

How do I need to set up the 3/4 clutches and do I need to drill the holes to what trans go says or PBA?

transam69230

iTrader: (49)

Nick why would you say something like that. Trust me i know its hard to get **** working right, and it takes time, i am sure you will figure it out, just don't put it back to stock it sounds way to nice. ( if you really want to put it back to stock i would be more than willing to take that 12 bolt off your hands though)

8a8mfh

iTrader: (3)

I had my trans in, out and apart at least three times one day, using floor jacks. Thats just me though, when is wrong it has to be made right asap. Don't give up.
I made the most progress when I stopped listening to everyone elses specific set up, and listening to what made sense. Example: 25 year old technology like the 700R4 3-4 clutch pack that probuilt sells and the resulting thin steel with burn marks in five small spots vs thick revised 4L60E steel with even wear and nice firm shifts.
I will give credit to Dana for his efforts and williness to help. He's very good at building his own transmissions, but he's not accurate at helping build one over the internet. I believe everyone has that problem to some degree no matter what's being built. Plus the fact that every trans application is unique.

VORTECFCAR

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the anectdotes and encouragement guys.

I'll keep you in mind if I decide to lose the 12 bolt Ryan.

Frank (performabuilt) is right about the pressure issue. After driving a stock trans on the same tune it's become my belief that the 2-3 flare isn't a result of just a couple miss drilled holes. The stock trans shifted 1-2 harder than the 'rebuilt' unit ever did. Of course when I talked to PBA, we didn't talk about a possible pressure issue because I hadn't driven the stock trans hard yet and witnessed the difference.

I hate calling the pros to ask for advice when I don't have the time to get dirty and troubleshoot (although everyone has been very helpful).

One of these days...

Right now, the sight of a 4L60E or smell of trans fluid makes me want to

PBA

I sent him the needed parts (if the problem is as described) to solve this. When VORTECFCAR gets back into town, we'll go from there.

runamuk

Damn!!!

I'm in the process of rebuilding my first auto trans when I stumbled on this thread.

My first big question is when I pulled the trans apart (this was purchased thru the classifieds) the filter was gone, so I knew somebody had atleast been into the pan, then I pulled the pump out and I noticed there is no band or thrust washer between the pump and input drum???

Then I read all the way thru the thread and now I'm second guessing even attempting this build.

FLT

iTrader: (1)

Do you have a manual to rebuild this unit? If so it should give you a complete break down of the trans. If so which manual are you using? Look for a picture that has every part in order in which it should be assembled. It sounds like the unit that you purchased had been in need of a rebuild as you can see.

jfman

iTrader: (6)

Are the ford trannies easier to work on in general?

I replaced a pump on a 4r100 trans and replaced the first set of clutches and discs directly behin the pump (using no manual, just a blown up view from the parts microfiche) and it wasnt so bad. But this looks like a nightmare.

02 BLK WS6

iTrader: (11)

3-4 clearances should be set to .015-.020 for performance builds. I set mine to .012 after they were soaked in tranny fluid. 2 years and going strong. I'll be pulling it out at the end of this season to refreshen the tranny and have the converter restalled.

VORTECFCAR

iTrader: (2)

Wow, thread zombie...

It's been a long time since I thought about the old 4L60E. The car's gone (put a stocker back in and sold it), but the star of this thread still sits in the corner of my garage. Anybody need a core?

It was a fun experience, but ........never again

Nick

lt170chevelle

iTrader: (2)

yeah it takes allot of patients and nerves when doing trannys yourself.And i know how it is when you seem to have done everything right and it still not work as it should. i once had my tranny out 3 times in the same week....i wanted to just drive it in a wall after that..ended up getting another tranny for really cheap that was rebuilt.but just recently got curious recently and found a damaged part that was overlooked among the others parts that i had broke at the time.but anyways man this was starting to be a really good informative thread..too bad it turned for the worse.

TightSS

Yeah....I was almost convinced. Found videos...rebuild kits....tool rental..

NO WAY>>..this is EXACTLY what I don't have time for. If YOU DO, GO FOR IT.

Think I'll pop for one thats done!!!

Who knows might have been a simple error. But personally, I don't have time to do this more than once. I will take my chances doing the R&R of the trans, and limit my risk there.

Man...thanks for the pics, blood, sweat and TEARS...SOLD ME ON A COMPLETE UNIT......(do you work for someone....and was this the plan?)jk

I'm sure it can be done. But I don't have MONTHS to mess with...I want to DRIVE my car....

Last suggestion........ASK PAULSON FOR A BAILOUT!

tattmann

I found this article kind of interesting. I do however have to point out the blatantly obvious here. There were several people that said do not go with the transgo kit to change the shifting ability of this transmission. These peoples advice were ignored, and the person that created this thread continued anyway. The end results, a tranny that wound up in the junk pile so to speak. I myself tried a shift kit in a tranny years ago, and had the same results. Junked. This thread was dropped into the abyss for roughly a year because of the disappointing results of a failed rebuild. I myself am currently rebuilding a 4l60e, and will not be making radical fluid path changes. I want this tranny to last. If I wanted harder firmer shifts, as it sounds like the articles author did, I would put a billet servo setup in it. One with a super hold 4th gear piston in there. From research I have done, most everyone says this same thing. "For firmer shifts, change out the servos for those made to do the job." anyway, when rebuilding a tranny, listen to the negative comments as well as the positive? sometimes the negative comments are made by people that have been there and tried that and know from personal experience. Rebuilding a tranny doesn't have to take months to do. I own my own business and spend about 100 hrs a week there operating it. I took about 2 weeks rounding up all the special tools to rebuild a 700r4 a couple of years ago. Once I had them, it was all downhill from there. I have been stopped a couple of times while rebuilding this 4l60e due to finding damaged parts not included in my rebuild kit, but still, on teardown, it only took me a few hours to have it all torn down. With the tools and proper rebuild parts, it shouldn't take you more than a day to rebuild one of these. That includes a few breaks here and there to stretch and grab a drink and clean up. it's not that difficult a job. For those who have the funds to purchase a new or freshly rebuilt tranny, I salute you. I personally don't have a couple grand to drop on that. I would rather spend a little money on a kit, and get a little dirty and learn while doing it. That plus the feel of getting it done and having it work is a great one! Me, if I mess something up, the only *** to kick is my own, and I know what I do. I wouldn't necessarily be trusting someone else to fix it for me. The tranny I am fixing now is because of something like that. I went to pull the bolts out of the 4wd unit, and found it barely held to the tranny by finger tight bolts, and half of the nuts and bolts that normally hold all this in the vehicle were missing. Once again, when I do it myself, I know what's done and can trust myself.