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Well damn. And that was with cathedral port heads and less RPM than I will turn. So I'll just tape the box back up and list them. Not much point in another back to back with just a few more cubes. Puts me into June but I guess that's more time(patience) I can spend doing the bottom end refresh.
Pacesetters are certainly better flowing than stock manifolds and we are limited on choices. See above for a link to the difference bt small and large primaries. You will see improvement everywhere, so long as it's well tuned. No downside to the big tubes on any LS motor 346ci or bigger.
Just ordered. Thanks for the tip!
Kooks are arriving at the end of the month so just going to sell the PSs.
Originally Posted by jmilz28
What's your budget here?
Basically trying to keep my total cash in the vehicle to around $20K. I've gotten some amazing deals on a lot of this stuff just being in the right place at the right time with a little cash so I am actually around that budget. I know the LS9s would be fantastic for FI and I may do that with them later but I got them for $1100 shipped, brand new. GM CNC so nothing special but at least the intake wing is gone. In the context of this build, titanium intakes and sodium-filled exhaust valves for RPM ability..otherwise I would have just used regular old LS3s. And for the price..I paid quick and asked no questions.
Now if autocross ends up being a regular thing I enjoy, budget goes up.
I'm expecting the gift baskets from my neighbors to start arriving on my doorstep at any moment.
These stands are fricken awesome and cheap. $50 and maybe $40 for the wheels. I will have to put it on the big-boy stand to do the bottom end work but for wheeling into the garage they are unbeatable. Stands on its own even with the transmission hanging off the back. Put a jack under the tail just for peace of mind tonight but likely unnecessary.
Maryland Speed. $1150 shipped, coated, with the non-cat connection pipes. Hopefully I can reverse some of this bleeding with a sale on the other headers. It honestly hurt my inner cheap-*** pretty badly to pay that much for headers but I gather this was a good deal compared to typical retail. Still seems over-priced even if they are driving the bandwagon.
Maryland Speed. $1150 shipped, coated, with the non-cat connection pipes. Hopefully I can reverse some of this bleeding with a sale on the other headers. It honestly hurt my inner cheap-*** pretty badly to pay that much for headers but I gather this was a good deal compared to typical retail. Still seems over-priced even if they are driving the bandwagon.
I paid more than that for my ARH and catted Y on my old f-bod 8 years ago, no ceramic coating. I think you did great and you WILL be glad with the extra ponies AND several years down the road they still look good. FWIW, I made more power and torque than most bolt on Ls1s with the big tubes and I was ready when the cammed LS3 went in. Trust me, when it's all together you'll feel this was money well spent. Nice build and keep the awesome pics coming!
Don't forget to dent those two primaries by the steering shaft pretty well. It hurts to take a hammer to such beautiful and expensive tubes, but it's necessary, ESPECIALLY when autocrossing. I didn't dent them enough when I first installed them and they recently started vibrating on right-hand turns. I pulled them again and dented more last week and problem solved, but something I would rather not have done again.
Honestly, autocrossing isn't something I'd readily jump into with this car. It's just too heavy, even with the low gearing. If you get into it and them jump into a stockish miata or similar, I think you'd have a revelation.
Road racing is where these things shine, but it's a bit more pricey.
Also: Regarding underhood temps; the previous owner of my car removed the cowl gasket on the top of the hood. The car was originally from Miami, so I can only guess it was to alleviate some underhood temps. It also has a 160* t-stat and stays fairly cool. The wrapped headers also keep the heat down. Even so, my AC still isn't 100% at idle with the stock crank pulley. It's tolerable though. My back just gets a little sweaty in summertime, and I'm not generally a "sweaty" guy.
The only downside I can think of is that high speeds may show some signs of hood flexing because of the lack of engine bay pressure, but I haven't taken this thing above 100 mph in years and didn't notice any flex on my 1-2 high speed runs when I first got it.
Ok OK so this is how long I've limited myself to the strip and offroad... I was speaking out of school and had to Google the difference. I am interested in road racing. Let the flogging begin.
This is kinda why I was leaning toward a drag-friendly rear gear and maybe just accept using 5th gear a little on longer course stretches. That way I can have some fun at the strip since I can do that every Friday night. In ROAD RACING I don't think I'll ever see 1st gear so what's the harm in choosing a rear gear that puts me through the traps near the top of 4th gear? Or is 5th gear a no-no in racing situations?
Man the header denting is going to be painful. Especially when the ceramic starts cracking off.
I've done some AC work on the side before and I am hoping that with the underdrive I can still maximize the charge and system and not end up too sweaty. I'm not normally a "sweaty" guy either but I've picked up a nice layer of natural insulation in my thirties that doesn't help with cooling.
Obviously dumping the clutch in 5th at the end of the 1/4 is a BIG no but what about occasionally catching it in a long straight in a RR situation? Like >=140MPH...if I ever even get there.
Obviously dumping the clutch in 5th at the end of the 1/4 is a BIG no but what about occasionally catching it in a long straight in a RR situation? Like >=140MPH...if I ever even get there.
Ok so I can drag well in 4th and hit 165 in 5th with 4.56-ish. Seems obvious. Obvious that I might accelerate the need for a rebuild but that is something I have the tools for and want to learn anyway. And I drank the Magnum Kool-aid already hence the Jeep. I'll get one for the V soon. Hoping the lightened clutch/flywheel will lighten the load on the stock synchros for a bit.
May I ask you to find some time to respond to my lengthy response to your lengthy(and appreciated!!) response to mine?
Generally speaking, for manuals and differentials, if you are smooth on the transitions you can make them live longer. It's all about not powershifting, being as smooth and gradual as possible (granny) shifting and coming on/off the power. This will slow you down a lot down the 1/4 but may(?) not make as big a difference in road racing? Of course in road racing, applying that torque in turns complicates things and may put you back at square one. I haven't road raced so I can't speak first hand but I made a 10 bolt live a decently long life behind a cammed LS3. I shifted like a granny but didn't drive like one so I would think applying some of the same techniques might give you time to save up for the heavy duty rebuild parts.
Got the diff out..minor jackpot here. It's the 4th iteration and I made a good deal on it. So that cash is headed with me to pick up the Swift springs.
There's just no way this is a 100K mile engine unless they ran fricken Dawn liquid soap instead of oil. Not complaining yet but just a little strange. (Twilight Zone theme plays in the background)
There's just no way this is a 100K mile engine unless they ran fricken Dawn liquid soap instead of oil. Not complaining yet but just a little strange. (Twilight Zone theme plays in the background)
No way. Religious oil changes with great synthetic oil will allow this.
Picked up the springs this afternoon..$150 BNIB though been sitting a while from the looks of the stickers. No matter. New.
First a pic of where I went to get them. I've always loved this sign and I figured non-Louisianans would get a kick out of it...as kids we always had predictions of some mega-church filled to bursting with pumpkins.
05-05-2016, 10:31 PM
