Mercier

iTrader: (15)

It's raining again and I mostly wanted to post a pic of my redneck car tent setup that my neighbors are _very_ impressed with...so here goes.

Car is a 2007 CTS-V. Bone stock. One option I will likely keep is the GMPP (Borla?) exhaust. Trying to do this once and then make only minor tweaks for the rest of the year. Not my usual style but I am committing to having at least one of my projects running *and* driving at all times. I want to primarily road race this car but it will be my first time.

Any and all feedback is welcome and requested. First V and first time I've jumped so "in with both feet" on a project.

TBDs:

Fuel pump
V2 brakes - seen done with GM accessory wheels..will this fit with 7-spokes?


Parts list acquired and plan for them so far:

*Hone/re-ring/bearings stock LS2 bottom end
*Improved Racing scraper and baffle
*CNC LS9s - likely mill but need to cc them as GM publishes 3 different chamber sizes
*Cam Motion Solid Roller ~22x/23x/6xx/6xx @116 - spec sheet somewhere
*Morel 5452s
*BTR .660 duals w/ Ti retainers
*Harland Sharp SL927As
*Accel Ceramic wires
*Kooks 1-7/8" ceramic coated
*FAST 102 with "High HP" mid-length/grey runners
*Stock LS3 rails, injectors, etc.
*LS2 TB - will self port or **maybe NW 102 if the right deal
*ATI 10% UD crank pulley
*Holley "Tall" polished valve covers
*Fidanza aluminum flywheel
*McLeod RXT
*C6 slave w/ Tick supporting bits
*DW320 Fuel Pump
*Racetronix Hotwire kit w/ upgraded bat leads
*KW V3 coilover kit
*Creative Steel poly bushings - every one they make - DECIDED ON RED
*RevShift rear diff mount bushings(might have to cut these?)
*Addco sway bars with Hotchkis mounts
*Rear Upper Pin mounts
*Adjustable toe rods
*CS Wide Trailing Arms
*CS 8.8 swap
*Self-built 8.8:
*Tru-Trac
*4.56 Gears
*Stock 7-spoke wheels for now.
*Have another set which may be widened
*360 Forged Split Sevens...will run these when I can afford the tires!

*V2 front brake upgrade - grabbing parts slowly

When I bought it:



And the money shot:

bigti99a

iTrader: (16)

Geaux CTSV. eh would say if you wanted you could move to a 25% balancer. i have had no issue with my powerbond. ATI=$$$ Powerbond=$. surprised you went solid roller not that there is a real issue with that. i also have the pacesetters. seeing the coating gone by the bottom of the primaries and the collectors and surface rust everywhere pisses me off every time i am under the car. wish i would have gone stainless but i am the only one who ever sees it so screw it. otherwise i think you will have yourself a nice ride. these cars do better at HPDE type events rather than in a parking lot.

Mercier

iTrader: (15)

Thanks for the kind words.

This will be an occasional driver to work and on weekends but mostly track. The way I see it, it's not going to kill me to pop the valve covers every few thousand miles and check lash...though the CM low lash solids I hear often don't need adjusting even out to 20K+ miles. I figured it worth it for the additional RPM potential which should net more on the top end. I don't expect headers to last forever but I wanted the reduced underhood heat of the ceramic coating and wasn't ready to buy $1000+ stainless and then pay even more to have them coated. If Sanderson had something for me, I would have bought that.

Louisiana is HOT. What's the A/C experience at idle with the 25% UD? I bought the ATI as I got a deal on it for $200 as a blem.

Mercier

iTrader: (15)

Demolition 80% complete..

bigti99a

iTrader: (16)

yeah LA is a little warmer. i dont run AC that often as i generally have all the windows down and cruise. I am going to be in NOLA next weekend and they are calling for 85 when it is 60 in MD right now. but i had a 25% on my fbody with no issues and expect none on this car. but we are talking what maybe 2-4hp? and after a long drive it still is hot as **** under the hood coating or not. an aftermarket hood with extractor would be best if one is ever made for the car worth owning.

Naf

iTrader: (1)

I have it the hottest, and when i ran a 25% ud my ac kept up with me...

Btw may i suggest upgradin the bushings to poly...

You did most of the work, so its a little more for a firmer feel

Also if you want louvers just get the alu add ons if you want better heat extraction...track spec t1 center louver... Am gettin this for my next project

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

With Maryland Speed running constant specials like free ceramic coating on Kooks headers, I would go that way. You're doing this right and those headers will bug the SH*T out of you every time you look at them once they start rusting. Just as or more important, go with the 1 7/8 primaries. There is no reason at all to go with the smaller tubes, the bigger ones will net you power everywhere. You're doing this build right otherwise, don't slack on that part, you WILL kick yourself later. http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...eaders-10.html
Everything I have seen says V2 brakes will fit under the 7 spokes...just.
Make sure to upgrade that power steering cooler since you'll be tracking it. This is a must.
Nice starting point, good find on that V!

Mercier

iTrader: (15)

Hmm. Got a good deal on the 10%. May see if I can horse trade up. Have a couple of weeks before the crank scraper is available. It is hot where you are for sure, but low humidity. Generally the issue you run into here is days of 100 degrees AND 100% humidity. No joke; we get 20 of those a year. Maybe those will just be truck days.

Have everything available in poly on the bench already. Went with the black poly from Creative Steel for most of them which is their slightly softer poly. Will I be sorry about that decision on the track?

My last fast /car/ was a '04 Cobra and I loved the heat extractors on those. I'm not worried about hacking up the car at all but am trying for a sleeper effect on the street. Will have to ponder this a bit. On my Jeep I have a couple of bilge pumps with hoses that I plan to just have blowing cool outside air against the underside of the hood, venting the engine compartment at lower speeds. Possibly find some room for one of those. On the track at speed, are there still underhood temp issues?

Thanks for the input!

Naf

iTrader: (1)

Try 120 with 95% humidity for the month of august and 125+ with 5-10% humidity from now till about September...

At speed the underhood temps are very manageable.

Mercier

iTrader: (15)

Dangit...already purchased the Pacesetters. Lemme see if I can sell some other parts out of the garage and move up. Coated Kooks does sound pretty good. I wouldn't mind having a few pieces left to upgrade where I can actually see some measurable benefit..so maybe run them for a year or so and then move up. The PCs were $450 shipped with direct connections to the existing exhaust so maybe I just treat them as a consumable. I'd hate selling them to someone as good if the reason I am selling is that they aren't.

Any particular power steering cooler or is this something where I can plug in most generic units? This is uncharted territory for me.

Thanks!

Mercier

iTrader: (15)

Ok, Ok...your heat can beat up my heat.

So idle and low speed. I may have to try my redneck boat hack.

In the Jeep world, it is common to just put some washers between the hinges and the hood, raising the rear of the hood slightly and basically effecting a wide and short cowl scoop from the hood. Might be an option for track days.

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

I thought the underhood temps on mine was hotter than 2 hells when I first got it so I took the weatherstripping off the radiator cover and off the firewall/cowling to see if I could get a little air flowing through there without spending any money or time. This helped immensely and I don't give under hood temps a second thought at this point. I'm in the Carolinas which isn't necessarily the snow belt.

I've gotten flack for suggesting this in the past because of the old "promoting air thru the radiator" argument, (which has validity on a car with very little open frontal area like a Vette or F-body) but on a car with as much open grill as this one has, I didn't expect it to be and it hasn't been an issue.

The engine bay does get a little dirtier now but I think that's a reasonable trade off.

Mercier

iTrader: (15)

This sounds like the ticket. Dirt will find its way into vents as well unless the thing goes straight from track to trailer to garage. And if ever that is my situation please shoot me. I intend to drive it and it will get dirty. I rather appreciated the "driver" paint condition when I arrived to pick up the car--my OCD won't keep me up at night over every time I thought I saw someone ding the door or race a shopping cart a little close to it.

You guys are a bad influence already...Kooks coated ordered. A month lead time though. Guess I'll post the PSs up for sale and if they don't sell and I'm ready before the Kooks are, I've got a bridge plan.

bigti99a

iTrader: (16)

i wouldnt hesitate running the pacesetters. just know what you have and how they will look. i dont think there is any big difference between 1 3/4 and 17/8 primaries. both will support all the HP your going to have. but yeah the under hood temps on this car just seem way higher than other vehicles i have had.

i would also put a good set of brake lines on it. or at minimum make sure the front brake line recall is completed.

Mercier

iTrader: (15)

Well by the time they look bad, I'll have a reason to put the Kooks on. You know what? I'll do a back to back dyno on them once I get things dialed in. That's worth the $400 I paid and then I'll know...and can probably still get a few bucks for them. I had the thought that the smaller primaries would be better on the relatively small displacement with the big(ger) heads..but then worried I was simply trying to justify my purchase.

I do plan to acquire some braided lines. Figured I would get the V2 brake stuff in and assess. If the stock lines are an option, should I consider any braided upgrade designed for the V1 to work?

Thanks!

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

In general, I think your main error (from my point of view) is keeping and maintaining the stock LS2. Your time and money will be more effectively spent on something like a 427 LSX, which will support a big blower in the future if you decide you want to invest in that. If you're sticking with the LS2, consider picking up a Cloyes True Billet 9-3672TX3Z timing set and a Katech KAT-A2390 oil pump. Pulling your ATI damper later to put those on sucks.

As your finances rebuild, consider the following:

• CG Lock ($60) and practice the CTS-V brace position...
• SRP aluminum pedals, which will help you heel-toe easier
• GM Tech 2 from AliExpress ($255) to do ABS solenoid purges and a bunch of essential troubleshooting--will pay for itself within 2 dealer visits
• RacingBrake BL-920 stainless brake line kit ($155)--don't get the Goodridge kit because it leaks.
• Bumax 88 and 17-4 PH hardware for the transmission brace and select engine and underbody mounts that can rust horribly ($250-300)
• Alradco aluminum radiator ($500)
• RX Speed Works Monster Catch Can kit ($450)
• STS aluminum front spindles (about $500)
• AMSOIL EaAU6080 air filter ($70), EaPF15 pre-filter ($22), Spectre 990003 3-5/8" to 4" MAF adapter sleeve ($10), and Spectre 9604 4" velocity stack adapter ($15)
• MTI Racing spark plug wires (about $180); check for contact with headers and also consider titanium spark plug boots
• NGK TR6IX spark plugs, gapped to 0.040" ($60)
• PA15-VETTE iPhone integration kit ($190), if you're an Apple guy, and a Mountek Snap+ or GRIP regardless of which side of the fence you're on
• ANZO LED tail lights ($370, or $520 if you get the complete kit)
• Full 4-corner steam vent plumbing ($150) and EVAP relocate ($60)
• Katech KAT-A4425 serpentine belt tensioner ($120)

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

Sorry brother, this just is not correct, even on a bolt on car. With a heads and solid roller cam, the difference will be distinct. Here is but one example: https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...yno-sheet.html

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

This is the one I used, which I was able to drill a couple of holes and mount it to the stock bracket, removing the stock excuse for a PS cooler.
Pacesetters are certainly better flowing than stock manifolds and we are limited on choices. See above for a link to the difference bt small and large primaries. You will see improvement everywhere, so long as it's well tuned. No downside to the big tubes on any LS motor 346ci or bigger.

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

The more I look, the more I am in line with Fuzzy's rec on the 427 LSX. If you're going to stay heads and cam only, rather than working over the LS2 and using LS9 heads, I'd snag a low mileage LS3 and sling your cam in it. Maybe have Advanced Induction work the heads for some extra oomph without breaking the bank. You could be at 500 to the tire pretty easy. Now, if you plan on pressurizing this engine, Fuzzy's rec is probably the best if you don't mind the extra 80lbs on the nose from the iron block. Another route for big power without the extra weight on the nose would be an LS7 bottom end and LS9 heads and blower setup. Mark Stielow has used that combo with great effect in his cars which see lots of track time. Let budget be your guide here...but get the coated 1 7/8 headers. If you were never going to be more than bolt ons, I'd say coat your Pacesetters and be happy. Given you're already looking at heads and solid roller cam, your headers are leaving significant power on the table. What's your budget here?

Mercier

iTrader: (15)

***(Adding responses to some things I missed)

Thanks for confirmation on the brakes. Going to order that stuff in the next couple of weeks.

Gears - I was mainly looking to end a 1/4 mile run somewhere near the top of 4th gear. Seems like 1st gear would never be used in autocross anyway, and maybe some sticky tires at the strip might make 1st somewhat usable? Those were my assumptions. I am not at all concerned with 1/4 mile times for this car as I know this is the wrong car for it but figured why not? I am also building my own diff up so I can change gears for $150 and a little time...I'll have all the tools and likely only futz it up a few times before I get it right. 3.55s are stock in a Cobra diff so I can get them for the price of dirt so it works out financially..but new 8.8 gears are fairly cheap too.

Have a crank pin kit I bought for the Jeep. Has an extra pin in it!

I have the philistine master cylinder kit in hand. Will be installing. Which slave cylinder should I have? I have the Katech spacer but then decided I didn't want to run the stock V slave. I have the following currently form Tick:

GM Slave Cylinder & Throwout Bearing for 2005+ Corvette & Z06 242376341
Tick Performance Upgraded LS7 Slave Line for 2004-07 CTS-V TPUSLCTS1

I have an opportunity to pick up a set of swift springs locally BNIB for likely half of retail. I'll check your thread and likely go make a deal on them. Are the springs that come with the (normally very expensive KW kit) really bad?

I'm committed to using Max's stuff. He's been real good to me and If it doesn't work out, I don't mind changing that much..though I believe he'll stand behind the product. That being said, he is allowing me to swap the blacks for reds since I haven't opened them yet. So I'll have stiff but it will be Creative Steel.

I'll take a look at what I have with the Hotchkis brackets, but yes, the billet ones. Thanks for the tip; will track this down if I don't have them already. I think I got some end links with the suspension parts lot I purchased. Will check into this.

I am not sure of the brand of the toe rods. Likely BMR but they aren't the signature RED so I am not 100% sure. Thease were also part of the lot and brand new but no box or instructions. I'll call BMR and get it figured out.

Thanks for putting a lot of thought into your response. I asked for input and this is a lot.

I don't disagree with you in the context of unlimited budget and not wanting to pull the engine twice. Since I didn't state it before - the budget I want to try to stick to is maybe +/- $1K-$2K what I've already purchased. I actually enjoyed pulling the engine and don't mind the idea of doing it again later once I've wrung every bit I can out of a stock bottom end 6.0. I'm usually working on things that didn't come with the drive train I'm pulling/working on so a lot less straightforward and a lot more hair pulled..this was nice if you can believe that. I have another LS2 and a LY6 short block in the garage that I do have future plans for more cubes. Maybe even sell those and go "real big" but I've decided I am going to do max-ish effort on a budget LS2 bottom end.

I don't know if I'll like autocross or if I even have a propensity for it. I like to think I can pick up anything but trying to be realistic that it might not work out.. so I want to keep my total investment in the car to about $20K until I *know* I like it. If I do, I will have no problem selling some other projects and going real big.

I should have mentioned that I have a single Hex-a-just setup and a couple of new Comp or similar double setups around somewhere..I have a tendency to ****** up good deals from the classifieds even if I don't need them right away. I will dig them up and see what they are. Planning to run an Edelbrock two-piece timing cover I already have around so I may be limited to the single. Will have to test fit and see.

I have a Melling 10296 and was planning to run the heavy spring. How does the Katech compare?

Other responses/comment inline:

Thanks again for the feedback.