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Here's my basically free diff. It's already customized with an oversized inspection port. The red plastic axle plugs are a nice touch with the gaping hole in the back.
Going to have to clean this one well and inspect hard for cracks.
That looks like a well cared for ls motor. My 156k ls1 was almost that clean when I sold it. I wouldn't be overly suspicious.
Ok, Ok. I'm over it. I'm still going to lightly hone, re-ring, and re-bearing. Because I bought the bearings..and the dang tools. And most of all that $9 worth of Plastigage!
Dismantled that 8.8 and I must say I should have bought more rear ends instead of Powerball tickets. Having a lot of luck with the rears.. Looks like this one was damaged in shipping or removal. There were chunks of the rear cover all over the gear set but not a scratch on the gears. So it a) wasn't turning when the cover was destroyed and b) it never turned after. Could have just cleaned it out and run it with a different cover but I already have the Tru-trac and 4.56s are on the way with install kit, etc. Guess I have innards to build a road-trip pumpkin if I want now!
New Truetrac Diff came in..MADE IN TAIWAN stamped right into the housing. Shame on you, Eaton. At least could have put it on a sticker I could peel off! :-P
Some aluma-****.. You guys saw the condition of the diff. Used a little regular degreaser to cut into the 1/4-inch layer of greasy dirt on the outside... Then Nu-Brite. If you have worked with A/C you know this stuff..if not you should. Just don't know it with your eyes, nose, or skin. Treat it like bleach. Aluminum bleach. Everyone should have some.
Any HVAC store that sells to the public but have seen at amazon too. I find that aerosol stuff foams out of the can and it doesn't lay down as evenly. This stuff sprays on like water and starts foaming after about 10-20 seconds. It gets in all the cracks and such and then starts foaming. It is relatively expensive($25-$50/gal) but it is designed to be mixed 3-4:1 with water so it lasts. I use it 2.5:1 or so usually but haven't done any real A/B testing to tell if it works better at that concentration. I plan to do my accy brackets, alternator, and PS pump housing. Probably control arms too. I did a bell housing on a previous Jeep project and it turned out fantastic also. Tempted to put some old heads back on and do my block!
I sprayed the stuff on my rear rotors and it didn't react at all. One of my brothers is a super whiz chemical engineer. I'll call him this AM to get the downside, if any.
Im building up a Jeep (XJ) as well and plan on using this for my intake, the degreaser just is not cutting it!
As long as it is aluminum, it will do the trick. Keep in mind it won't eat through thick grease itself; you have to get any caked on layer off. Now that I wrote that, I'm definitely doing my block to see how it goes. Can just coat the sensitive areas with some light grease! Well that, and the fact that I'm addicted to bad ideas.
Talked to my brother and did a little research of my own. It's just caustic soda/lye but I guess in a pretty blue and safe(er) concentration.
Eats the outer layer off. It's a strong base so can be neutralized with an acid like vinegar. So technically if you didn't want it to etch very far, douse with vinegar after and then hose it off well.
Here's a video of the same stuff(though high concentration going at a piece of aluminum foil..short verision is: don't fall asleep while waiting the ten minutes for this stuff. And go in stages to make sure you don't go too far. Nothing wrong with hosing it off, and deciding to put a little more on for a little longer but like haircut, you can't glue it back on!
Learn some Finnish while we're at it...now REAKTIO!!
Wear gloves/goggles while diluting the mixture. If you're accident prone, make sure you have vinegar in the house.
I'm drawing a blank right now due to lack of sleep, but my gut wants to say that caustic stress cracking and other damage mechanisms won't be an issue as long as you apply it when at ambient and all of the solution is rinsed thoroughly before getting up to temperature (>180-200F).
Wear gloves/goggles while diluting the mixture. If you're accident prone, make sure you have vinegar in the house.
I'm drawing a blank right now due to lack of sleep, but my gut wants to say that caustic stress cracking and other damage mechanisms won't be an issue as long as you apply it when at ambient and all of the solution is rinsed thoroughly before getting up to temperature (>180-200F).
FYI, not Mercier's brother.
Just checked with another chem-E and consensus is that 10-15 minutes with a 10-20% solution might take off like .0001. So I am going to do my block. Will see what happens!!
As far as the spacers required for the Hotchkis billet sway mounts (mentioned earlier in this thread), is this that item? If not, what would this be? In the box with some of the mounts(see first pic bottom right in plastic - two black blocks with bolts).
Making some progress. Got her up to 85MPH with no engine and suspension barely bolted together! Rented some shop space with a lift and should be making significant progress more quickly now. Off my back finally and my neighbors aren't pissed anymore. Well..they may still not like me..but not for the POS in the driveway, for my winning personality!
Nevermind all the Cobras. Shhhhh..ahem, Sssssss...they are sleeping.
05-08-2016, 09:29 PM
