D2 coilover advice/help
09-17-2016, 09:38 AM
#1
D2 coilover advice/help I just ordered wheels and tires for my V (F14s) (245/35 front, 285/30 rear) I ordered one size smaller diameter because I was planning to order D2s and drop the car. After reading a few threads about running the D2s as a "true" coilover I have a couple questions...
1) will setting them up as a true coilover take up more space? (Losing space between tire and spring)
2) opinion on tire size? (Maybe to small)
3) with the tires I have on order.. would I be able to get low enough to tuck them without being "slammed" ?
Im asking these questions now because im having 2nd thoughts on my tire size selection can still change it if need be, also I want to lower the car and make it handle better and was wondering if I should just run the D2s as they are or set them up as a true coilover.
This is my weekend car, driven aggressively on the street and will see the drag strip about once a year. I'm trying to get it ready for the 408 stroker transplant it's going to under go next month!
1) will setting them up as a true coilover take up more space? (Losing space between tire and spring)
2) opinion on tire size? (Maybe to small)
3) with the tires I have on order.. would I be able to get low enough to tuck them without being "slammed" ?
Im asking these questions now because im having 2nd thoughts on my tire size selection can still change it if need be, also I want to lower the car and make it handle better and was wondering if I should just run the D2s as they are or set them up as a true coilover.
This is my weekend car, driven aggressively on the street and will see the drag strip about once a year. I'm trying to get it ready for the 408 stroker transplant it's going to under go next month!
09-17-2016, 11:02 AM
#2
TECH Apprentice
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: GA
Posts: 350
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1) the space that will be taken up is the space that the spring will use when located and set up as a true coil over. this may affect your tired width, but ultimately you best bet is do the measurements of coil width and the width of the tire where it will sit with the offset of your rim.
2) I would recommend sticking close to 26" outer diameter as much as possible
3) That will depend on your cambers really. you should be ok with the 245s, but with the 285s you might want to consider rolling the fenders.
I have D2 coilovers and I am an aggressive driver who takes the V out of the track maybe 1 or twice a months. they are not set up as true coil overs and I don't have a problem as they are now. My fronts are 3/8'' from tire to fender lip and 1/2" to tire and fender lips on the rears with no rubbing and 3 other passengers. My dampeners are 10 clicks from full hard and besides a ball joint issue I am currently having, I am happy with the set up.
2) I would recommend sticking close to 26" outer diameter as much as possible
3) That will depend on your cambers really. you should be ok with the 245s, but with the 285s you might want to consider rolling the fenders.
I have D2 coilovers and I am an aggressive driver who takes the V out of the track maybe 1 or twice a months. they are not set up as true coil overs and I don't have a problem as they are now. My fronts are 3/8'' from tire to fender lip and 1/2" to tire and fender lips on the rears with no rubbing and 3 other passengers. My dampeners are 10 clicks from full hard and besides a ball joint issue I am currently having, I am happy with the set up.
09-17-2016, 11:23 AM
#3
I think I might just go with the recommended sizes for the F14s (245/40,275/35) I'm scared that I'll have to small of a tire and have a 4x4 look and will have to lower the car more than I would like to get it to look good.
Has anyone ran a 285 with forgestar F14s??! Happen to have a pic?
Has anyone ran a 285 with forgestar F14s??! Happen to have a pic?
09-17-2016, 03:51 PM
#4
I have 295 drag radials and they don't hit my coil overs. On stock wheels. No spacer. The space lost from true coil over setup if I remember is 3/8".
If you're debating where to locate the spring you realize you will have to make a spring change right? As Coilovers they will need to be softer as they are further out. And stiffer on the stock location.
And I don't really think there is much advantage either way.
If you're debating where to locate the spring you realize you will have to make a spring change right? As Coilovers they will need to be softer as they are further out. And stiffer on the stock location.
And I don't really think there is much advantage either way.
09-17-2016, 04:31 PM
#5
I have 295 drag radials and they don't hit my coil overs. On stock wheels. No spacer. The space lost from true coil over setup if I remember is 3/8".
If you're debating where to locate the spring you realize you will have to make a spring change right? As Coilovers they will need to be softer as they are further out. And stiffer on the stock location.
And I don't really think there is much advantage either way.
If you're debating where to locate the spring you realize you will have to make a spring change right? As Coilovers they will need to be softer as they are further out. And stiffer on the stock location.
And I don't really think there is much advantage either way.
well that's great to know! You run a 295 with what series sidewall?
I do realize about the extra spring set from the reading I have done, but what your saying is I won't have any benefit running it in true coilover form vs running it in stock setup? Not trying to start a debate just want to make sure I'm understanding properly
09-17-2016, 07:02 PM
#7
I have 295 drag radials and they don't hit my coil overs. On stock wheels. No spacer. The space lost from true coil over setup if I remember is 3/8".
If you're debating where to locate the spring you realize you will have to make a spring change right? As Coilovers they will need to be softer as they are further out. And stiffer on the stock location.
And I don't really think there is much advantage either way.
If you're debating where to locate the spring you realize you will have to make a spring change right? As Coilovers they will need to be softer as they are further out. And stiffer on the stock location.
And I don't really think there is much advantage either way.
Not sure to be honest, in all of my reading never once did I see where someone said running a true coilover setup has a big advantage over the stock setup. I just seen a lot of people with D2s setting them up in true coilover fashion and automatically assumed they did so for an advantage. If this is one of those cases where it doesn't really matter then I would just set them up the way it is now and be done, seeing I don't track my car and down here in south FL we have no "fun" roads to drive on... ours are all flat and straight.
Trending Topics
09-19-2016, 08:27 AM
#12
TECH Resident
i don't see a benefit to run the coilovers as true unless you're switching the lower control arms to the CS units. just leave the spring separate and don't worry about wheel clearance as much.
i would advise going down a sidewall size for whatever tires you end up with and soak up the extra wheel gap by lowering the car more.
there's also no way to tuck tire and not be pretty low.
i would advise going down a sidewall size for whatever tires you end up with and soak up the extra wheel gap by lowering the car more.
there's also no way to tuck tire and not be pretty low.
09-19-2016, 04:18 PM
#14
http://www.directpsonline.com/product/04-07-cts-v-lower-control-arms-creative-steel/
They replace the rear spring perches. I seriously doubt they're 16 lbs lighter, but even if they are, it's not a 1:1 unsprung length reduction. You've got to account for the mass being spaced away from the hub. The primary advantage of these arms is camber adjustment (although I've never seen any alignment numbers on that).
There'a not much advantage to moving the springs to the shock body--and the thing that sucks is you lose some inner wheel clearance. If you slice off the rounded sides of the OEM lower spring perches (and weld plates there to regain lost strength), you've got the best of both worlds--weight reduction and wheel clearance.
Last edited by FuzzyLog1c; 09-19-2016 at 04:29 PM.
09-19-2016, 04:36 PM
#15
I'm sure glad I posted this thread, as I stated earlier I was under the assumption that people were running them in "true" coilover form for an advantage! I don't see the reason in purchasing a different set of springs when there is nothing to be gained... space to be lost actually.
thanks guys for the quick answers!
thanks guys for the quick answers!
09-19-2016, 08:29 PM
#17
09-20-2016, 05:03 AM
#19
09-20-2016, 08:48 AM
#20
Huh. I swore they were heavier. Oh well, I guess I'm remembering wrong. Maybe I only lost 8 lbs between them. Info should ever take them off again I will weight them.
Mercier I think CS took them down since they were planning on re-designing Them. I believe one gentlemen cracked his. Mine are holding fine but I haven't had any high G turns yet.
Mercier I think CS took them down since they were planning on re-designing Them. I believe one gentlemen cracked his. Mine are holding fine but I haven't had any high G turns yet.