RoadWarrior93

I was very excited to find someone in my area that had some experience replacing all the mounts and bushings on a V1. For now I just had the cradle and differential bushing done. From Creative Steel I got the red ones (top stiffness) for the cradle and a black one for the differential, plus the differential block.

The difference is noticable. I was getting hop in second and that is no longer happening. But it still feels horribly violent in first. At the moment I'm not feeling that it was worth the extra vibration and differential whine I now hear resonate through the car because I still have yet to be able to do a proper burnout! What more should I do to it?

LS BRAVADA

iTrader: (4)

1) Keep doing hard launches and power shifts
2) wait for the dif to break
3) wheel hop fixed

voodoochikin04

iTrader: (3)

When I had my V, and true with my friends as well.... We did cradle bushings, diff, and trailing arm bushings. I believe if you do trailing arm bushings you'll notice a big difference.

Naf

iTrader: (1)

Gm really didnt field test the v very well.

There are a few ways to stop wheel hop, one is the kars kit, it helps lock in critical components and resist the urge to wheel hop, there are two in the classifieds.

I braced up all the weak areas, and i have to admit, my ride is tight and response is immediate

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Wheel hop occurs when you apply a torque transient that is near the natural frequency of the suspension. Assuming your bushings are in good shape, springs and shocks play a vastly larger role in determining whether you'll experience wheelhop or not.

rjoffe

Are you running original axles ?

RoadWarrior93

Yes the rest is still stock.

bigti99a

iTrader: (16)

bushings are not the cure all. there are so many components and if you want a burn out machine you will need an 8.8 kit to go in there. otherwise wheel hop or not you will grenade your rear sooner than later.

rjoffe

As mentioned in many other posts over the years of the V1, the issue is the transients of torgue throughout the rear. All of the "fixes" amount to changing something in the rear that in turn changes this behavior.

There is no one item that will eliminate wheel hop on this platform (even the 8.8 is known to hop somewhat). And since each individual car ages and is driven differently, something that works for one V, will not necessarily work for another.

Stiffening up the bushings as you have done does help to some degree. The Kars kit Naf mentioned is another. Changing out the axles to two different sizes / materials, is a third. Shocks / springs is a fourth. There are others, people have tried throughout the years. The 8.8 is probably the best bet, but costs $$$.

In my car I did bushings and changed one axle which helped for 80%. Completely eliminated it in 1-2 shifts and in first when the road was wet. However, no burnouts for me (ever).

just my 2c,

Ron

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

Another option is coming to the realization that if you bought this car to do burnouts--you bought the wrong car. There are plenty of other cheaper/better platforms for burnout machines. Dumping the type of money required into the rear suspension of these cars just to roast tires makes no sense at all.

RoadWarrior93

I've heard about the axle shafts, changing one to a different size. Is there a recommended brand for those? Knowing about the weak rear end but not knowing about the 8.8 conversation when I bought it, I purchased a warranty. So kind of hoping the rear end would grenade at some point

I understand that it's not going to be a burnout machine, just don't like the violent shuddering that happens when it does. I'll have to give some thought about the Kars kit and look into the other solutions.

pdxmotorhead

I'm a road race guy,, but I've fixed quite a few cars with wheel hop by replacing their custom 1 piece drive line with a 2 piece like their car came with... Dont know if it applies here..

Salt flat cars often use drivelines with 5 or even more sections to get in to the 200MPH club.
Harmonics in the drive line at that speed can suck 40+ HP.. The longer the pieces the more resonance you can get and the drive line sucks away power as it starts to whip.

Cheers

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

These cars come with a 2 piece shaft. However, the center support is prone to sagging and causing clunks and vibrations too.

pdxmotorhead

Yep,, the center bearing is a long standing gremlin.. on a lot of cars..

I saw a video of a drive line being turned over a 100 then they went slow mo,, freaky how much flopping around they do..

RoadWarrior93

Why does the 8.8 conversion help? And also would upgraded sway bars do anything?

rjoffe

The 8.8 helps due to a number of factors:

1. The 8.8 diff mounts differently to the subframe.
2. Normally requires replacement axles
3. slight geometry changes

Net result is you have a completely different solution in place that does not exhibit the same level of harmonics.

isis

iTrader: (1)

The easy solution is shitty hard tires. My car with RSAs would only hop in the very very wet.

hefftone

i installed 95a poly cradle bushings in mine (2007) , then later a 95a front diff bushing. Each introduced significantly more diff noise into the cabin. The cradle bushings helped regarding wheelslip while turning (oversteer, acclerarting while turning).The diff bushing helpd during lower speed clutch engagement and clunkiness. When the car is pointed straight, and the tires slip....holy ****......it sounds terrible. i cant even explain other than, it sounds like something should have broken.....like a slamming sound....like the slamming of an overhead garage door. Yeah so i dont do that.....launching my car is, well pretty gay.

Wheel slip on wet pavement introduces the same slamming.
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BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

Or wider sticky tires that don't spin easily. Grab n go.

bigti99a

iTrader: (16)

or maybe grab and kaboom. bottom line is the rear as seems in many GM cars was not selected with the purpose of taking the abuse the owners would like to give it.