Using LAPD speed bleeder?
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Using LAPD speed bleeder?
How are you guys bleeding your slave with the remote bleeder? I'd expect it to be a solo job since the line is decently long to reach outside of the car. I searched through a bunch of threads but didn't find anything but how-to's for general bleeding procedure. I have absolutely no pedal pressure anymore since installing the clutch. (Worst experience of my life reinstalling the trans btw).
#4
Let me guess....the bell housing was a major bitch to get off, and the input shaft was hard to line up upon install? Lol, we all went through it man.
I've always used a helper when bleeding the clutch. Somebody with a decent left foot lol.
Which clutch did you go with?
I've always used a helper when bleeding the clutch. Somebody with a decent left foot lol.
Which clutch did you go with?
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I went LS7. Bellhousing came off no problem. As it turns out I had a Monster clutch I destroyed. Flywheel was charred with clutch material as was the PP. I think the reason I no longer had engagement is because the clutch disc surface was completely glazed over and no longer grabbed. I couldn't get the trans in to save my life. I had to stab the input shaft, checked over and over that the splines were engaged by working the trans and the output then drew the trans in with the bolts. Never had to do that with my F-body...ever it always slid right in. Alignment tool slid in no issues in every direction I rotated it and everything looked centered. Trans went right up to the bellhousing when I drew it in with the bolts too. I just hope my pilot isn't screwed.
In doing so I also kinked the line on my brand new LS7 slave and it ruptured causing a dribble of fluid to come out so I got stuck throwing the old one in (LS7 too). I think the old one is still good since I still had good pedal pressure. IF I have to, it looks possible, can I easily swap lines from slave to slave? Looks like it's just a clip that holds it onto the housing.
I'm a bit lacking in assistance so hopefully I can manage to either get someone to help or do something on my own (I doubt it).
In doing so I also kinked the line on my brand new LS7 slave and it ruptured causing a dribble of fluid to come out so I got stuck throwing the old one in (LS7 too). I think the old one is still good since I still had good pedal pressure. IF I have to, it looks possible, can I easily swap lines from slave to slave? Looks like it's just a clip that holds it onto the housing.
I'm a bit lacking in assistance so hopefully I can manage to either get someone to help or do something on my own (I doubt it).
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Also, there's no foot involved with the clutch pedal yet. I have to push it in and lift it off the floor by hand. I've read through all the threads about how hard it was for some to bleed the system I just hope that mine bleeds ok and I can be done with this. Other than reinstalling the trans, this was extremely easy.
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I did mine by myself with a Mity Vac, just snake the line right next to the master and you can fill and bleed at the same time.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...ku=00947058000
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...ku=00947058000
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I did mine by myself with a Mity Vac, just snake the line right next to the master and you can fill and bleed at the same time.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...ku=00947058000
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...ku=00947058000
#11
Next time, get yourself a power bleeder or Mity Vac (if you're trying to save money). You'll save yourself a ton of time that way.
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Mity-vac is on the way for the future or if I can't find anyone to help me bleed the system.
I also recommend a tranny jack. The next time I have to do this I will be buying the scissor type from Harbor Freight. Mating the trans to the bellhousing was f*cking ridiculous.
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Car's done and moves under its own power. Everything seems good so I begin the break-in process aka a **** ton of driving. LS7 users weren't kidding, the clutch engages almost right off the floor after a fresh install. Should be good when it comes up a little after break-in.
Thanks to all for their input!
Thanks to all for their input!
#17
Mity-vac is on the way for the future or if I can't find anyone to help me bleed the system.
I also recommend a tranny jack. The next time I have to do this I will be buying the scissor type from Harbor Freight. Mating the trans to the bellhousing was f*cking ridiculous.
Definitely give the Mity Vac a shot when you get it--if you can, do it after a drive when everything's hot. Based on my experience, you've probably got a TON of bubbles in the system that you don't know about. When you apply vacuum on the clutch fluid reservoir outlet and pump the pedal, you may see dozens of large bubbles and innumerable tiny bubbles that were previously too small to evacuate (i.e.: before applying vacuum) from the system shoot out.
The presence of those little bubbles made my car impossible to shift 3/4 of the way through my first dyno tuning session because the extreme heat expanded them. Never again.
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a little late to reply, but if looking at the harbor freight jack, consider the trans jack right above the scissor lift, it looks more like a regular jack, but the trans table is tilt and roll adjustable to make lining things up much easier. (it is a bigger tool yo will have to store once done though)