I want to quiet my valvetrain... how?
04-13-2014, 12:09 PM
#44
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04-14-2014, 05:50 AM
#46
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Fall/Winter I was in the truck scene and now that spring/summer is here I am back in the car scene.I feel rusty as hell. So much **** to do to the caddy and one of to quiet down the valvetrain.
Link to MORELS?
Link to MORELS?
04-14-2014, 10:01 AM
#47
04-14-2014, 10:24 AM
#48
Then pull the heads to replace lifters etc. In my job I chose to smooth out the intake port walls with a dremel. It's not nearly as effective as a professional port job and I could imagine some would probably not recommend it, but a light smoothing doesn't hurt IMO. Once you're done there, replace the heads and use ARP BOLTS as suggested before. They're reusable and make taking the heads on and off easier as you don't have to line up studs with holes and are also less expensive. If you're not pulling heads often, then I wouldn't worry about damaging the block's bolt holes--just make sure they are clean clean clean and free of coolant. I recommend an aerosol duster and twisted rag tip to clean them out. I spent a good hour making sure the holes were clear.
If you're doing the trunion upgrade you'll need some sort of press. I used a bench vice mounted on its side and some large sockets to create a press.
Also, B12 Chemtool cleaner is THE JAM for cleaning the carbon from everything. Spray it on, let soak, wipe it off. Can be found in any auto parts store.
Then you can replace cam, oil pump, and timing chain.
04-14-2014, 10:49 AM
#49
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Since you're replacing the springs, it's best to do that with the heads on, so I would start with that. If you take them off to replace them you'd have to use a hammer to knock the retainers out and it's not the best process and you risk flying retainers and other parts. A spring compressor only works with the head on AFAIK.
Then pull the heads to replace lifters etc. In my job I chose to smooth out the intake port walls with a dremel. It's not nearly as effective as a professional port job and I could imagine some would probably not recommend it, but a light smoothing doesn't hurt IMO. Once you're done there, replace the heads and use ARP BOLTS as suggested before. They're reusable and make taking the heads on and off easier as you don't have to line up studs with holes and are also less expensive. If you're not pulling heads often, then I wouldn't worry about damaging the block's bolt holes--just make sure they are clean clean clean and free of coolant. I recommend an aerosol duster and twisted rag tip to clean them out. I spent a good hour making sure the holes were clear.
If you're doing the trunion upgrade you'll need some sort of press. I used a bench vice mounted on its side and some large sockets to create a press.
Also, B12 Chemtool cleaner is THE JAM for cleaning the carbon from everything. Spray it on, let soak, wipe it off. Can be found in any auto parts store.
Then you can replace cam, oil pump, and timing chain.
Then pull the heads to replace lifters etc. In my job I chose to smooth out the intake port walls with a dremel. It's not nearly as effective as a professional port job and I could imagine some would probably not recommend it, but a light smoothing doesn't hurt IMO. Once you're done there, replace the heads and use ARP BOLTS as suggested before. They're reusable and make taking the heads on and off easier as you don't have to line up studs with holes and are also less expensive. If you're not pulling heads often, then I wouldn't worry about damaging the block's bolt holes--just make sure they are clean clean clean and free of coolant. I recommend an aerosol duster and twisted rag tip to clean them out. I spent a good hour making sure the holes were clear.
If you're doing the trunion upgrade you'll need some sort of press. I used a bench vice mounted on its side and some large sockets to create a press.
Also, B12 Chemtool cleaner is THE JAM for cleaning the carbon from everything. Spray it on, let soak, wipe it off. Can be found in any auto parts store.
Then you can replace cam, oil pump, and timing chain.
Awesome, thank you, that clears things up for me. I will likely be getting the ARP studs for the reasons you mentioned, and also because I hate TTY/torquing to a degree... Probably a baseless fear but doesn't make me like it any more.
I'll pick up some B12 Chemtool when I am tearing it down.
I do have a 20-ton press in my garage I can use to get the trunnion upgrade installed with.
04-14-2014, 11:27 AM
#50
