DMM

The LS6 cam has the smaller base circle as well. Measure to be sure, but I'm pretty sure you'd need stock 7.425" push rods.

raven154

iTrader: (14)

Stock pushrods are 7.4. On the LS6 243 heads they made up the difference in smaller base circle with a little longer valve stem. The pushrods stayed the same at 7.4. Not sure what they did on the LS2 heads with standard solid valves.

DMM

Yep...my bad. The solid valves are .025" shorter than the hollow ones. 7.4 it is.

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

Ok, so I'm about to get into my head cam sway at some point in the near future, and I know the stock length is 7.4, and I remember that measuring is always the best way to go and I already bought the tool, but I can remember reading somewhere that 7.425 was the way top go for proper lifter preload which would help quiet down the valve train? So ya know I will be going with the GM LS lifter (LS7), as I already have them and don't have the extra coin right now to change them to buy different ones. The consensus I got from the forums is they are hit or miss. I will put better lifters in like the morels when I take the motor out later to forge it. But for now the OEM are staying. To give you all the info it will be the TSP MS3 cam TEA stage 2 heads with ferra valves titanium retainers, and YT rockers.

Opinions?

Edit: oil pump is the TSP ported ls6.

DarkCharisma

I have a question about setting preload.

Is there a good guide that explains how adjusting this affects that, and so on? Right now I am seeing things like "finger tight, until there's little friction on the pushrod, then tighten cap to 22-ftlbs" or some stuff like that. Seems that if you're tightening to 22ft-lbs, it will move a static amount, and thus not really affect preload?

Basically just a bit lost on that topic.

raven154

iTrader: (14)

Honestly I don't remember what preload I used without looking it up again. Vinci recommends .060-.100" so I'm pretty sure I did .080-.090. Preload is something that you are just going to have to make a decision on and try it out. Everybody has an opinion on preload and your going to find 100 different recommendations with their own reasons for using it.

I used what was recommended by Vinci High Performance on the Crane gold rollers when I bought them years ago and used the same procedure when I installed them last time as well. But since I use rocker studs my technique will be a little different than yours.

On yours, you need to find out how many thousands each 360* turn of the bolt is. That is how you will find what your preload is. Like you said finger tighten until you feel resistance spinning the pushrod. From there everything else will be preload until it hits 22ft lbs.

DMM

Easiest way by far is to measure dead zero lash and add whatever preload you want. This takes the guesswork out of it so you don't have to worry about how many turns equals how many thousands of an inch. If you measure 7.305" zero lash, add your 0.80" preload (whatever you want) and order 7.385" pushrods. Done.

http://www.jegs.com/i/COMP-Cams/249/...oductId=753211

raven154

iTrader: (14)

You will find a lot of different methods to skin this cat. As long as you can come up with a good measurement with the preload that is right for you you're good. A method that works for some may not work as well for others. Just has to do with the way you reason things out in your head.

Like I said earlier, if you can measure both cams you don't need the checker at all. Some people will say otherwise but it makes sense to me and most importantly it worked. Some check with the checker but use it a little different. Whatever works best in your brain is the best way lol

ColeGraham

iTrader: (8)

If you plan on changing the cam, doing an boost cam in a N/A app would sort of be (IMO) a waste of time and money.

LS6: 204/218 .550/.550 117.5
LS9: 208/230 .554/.546 121

You will not be taking in or put out enough air to fully use that cam. There are plenty of cams out there that can meet you requirements, and be a much better fit for the LS6. For the kind of exhaust duration, you would need some more lift on the intake and exhaust. The LSA is the main effect on Idle Chop, and with stock mufflers, resonators, cats sound will be minimized.

XR265HR: 212/218 .558/.563 115
BTR Stage 1: 223/230 .610/.573 115+2
Tick Stage 1: 221/226 .60x/.60x 115+2
TSP Sleeper: 220/220 .581/.581 115
VRX1: 220/220 .581/.581 114+4
VRX2: 224/228 .581/.588 114+4
VRX3: 226/228 .585/.588 114+4

Just to name a few...or do the GM LS6 Hot Cam...or get a Costume grind. I am sure the LS9 cam is cheaper, but you will see better gains/drive ability with something meant for an N/A LS6 Application.

All this is assuming you are stock, other then mods listed in your sig and you have no plans for boost.

DarkCharisma

Thanks for your input. I always appreciate when knowledged guys like yourselves (and others) who take the time to educate the noob.

Would like your thoughts on the cam. The ones you listed sound "aggressive," aka non-stock, according to the dyno/sound videos I could find. Are these inherently "harder" on the valvetrain since they have more aggressive cam lobes?

ColeGraham

iTrader: (8)

Doing a cam under a 600 lift will be the easiest on your value train. With new pushrods and springs you shouldn't see that much negative impact compared to a stock cam/value train.

When I was looking at doing a cam in my 07, I would going to do around a 595 lift and a 228-232 duration with a 114 LSA. That would have decent street manners from what I have heard from talking to people.

If you really want something mild, the VRX1 lift/duration would be good with a higher LSA and a 0 or negative overlap to give you the quieter idle.

DMM

I just installed an LS4/LSA oil pump in my cousins Denali XL...03 LQ9 with 119k miles on it and well maintained. Started making valve noise followed by a hard knock. Shop diagnosed it as a rod knock, although it sounded like a lifter to me, and still had valve noise. Oil pressure gauge showed 40 psi cold/hot.

The new oil pump fixed everything and now has about 75 psi cold and 60 hot. I don't know what happens to the oil pumps internally to kill flow, but apparently there is not enough to reach the rear of the engine. This makes the third LS motor with valve noise that I have fixed with a new oil pump.

Brackets

Nice, good info as usual DMM.

DarkCharisma

Reviving this thread, since initially starting it I bought a house and used up all my savings that was going towards this... anyway I have money for this again, so just a few last questions to make sure I got my **** together.

* Cloyes vs OEM timing chains, LS2 style. Any reason for one over the other?
* When setting lifter pre-load, should I have them full of oil, so they mimic operational height, or is it best to do them dry? Logic dictates (in my mind) that full makes more sense than empty...
* Some how-to guides have people throwing cam lube and oil and grease on damned near everything. Others, not so much. What are the critical components to lubricate during installation? I trust you guys.
* Is it recommended to replace head gaskets every time you go into the engine, and if so, what about head bolts?

bmylez

iTrader: (3)

Not that I have done any head work myself, but I can without a doubt answer the question about new head gaskets and bolts. ABSOLUTELY. I've never heard of anyone re-using head gaskets. Just asking for trouble. And if you want to avoid having to buy new head bolts each time, pick up some head studs.

raven154

iTrader: (14)

Pre-oiling the lifters is so you don't have to wait for them to "pump up". It does help keep them from collapsing when setting preload though. The spring in them is soft and without oil its hard to tell when you have made it to zero lash without going into preload. So, I would do as I always have and let the lifters soak in oil for several hours prior to installation.

As bmylez said, don't reuse the head gaskets or factory head bolts as they are torque to yield. ARP studs are the way to go but are pricey and not neccesary for mild builds. If you want to be able to reuse the bolts in the future, ARP bolts are a cheaper alternative.

As far as lube goes, it depends on how long you plan on letting it set before you restart it. If it's going to be several days I would use some assembly lube on the rollers and pushrod cups. If you are going to restart it soon after, just a good oil bath should be good but it still won't hurt to use assembly lube if you want. It will take a bit to build oil pressure and the extra protection of assembly lube will help keep things from running dry.

ryridesmotox

I just did fresh springs last weekend. It quieted the valvetrain a lot. I had broken one a while back and the warranty only covered the replacement of the broken spring. So I went ahead and finished it up. Mine used to be pretty loud but I have been around a few LS cars so I was used to it.

DarkCharisma

I ordered everything but gaskets and lifters. Should be here Tuesday.

For head gaskets, any reason to get something besides OEM?

http://www.tickperformance.com/gm-mu...ad-gasket-set/

tmonttt

iTrader: (10)

I went with OEM MLS head gaskets for my build with no problems.

DarkCharisma

Thanks.

All the guides I've seen have described setting up the cam with the heads already on. Since I'll be pulling my heads, what special considerations do I need to make, in order to not break things and set it up right?