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I have seen that TSB as well and I have a small oil leak coming from that area. I have heard the this could also be the oil pan mating onto the rear cover. I plan on checking it out during the clutch install (obviously) and at least I will be prepared if I need to replace the rear seal/cover. I have the cover and seal and the seal is pressed into the cover. I believe there is a bit of alignment when installing it to make sure it is perfect. Sac city motors offers a nifty tool to align it properly, I may check into it or wing it, not sure yet.
why they didn't put dowel pins on this is beyond me...
i've read somewhere that you clean everything up good and just barely snug the cover up and turn the motor over a few times and it will "self center". i'll look into the tool though...
which says to not oil the seal before installing it....this isn't the only thread I've seen this bit of info in...apparently the GM seal has teflon in it which makes oiling it a no no....
I've never not oiled a seal before installing it...any thoughts??
Like I said. I have a small oil leak back there and I'm not 100% sure it's not the rear seal. Or cover gasket. I bought it to avoid possible downtime on the car if it is the seal or cover. I agree if the seal isn't leaking don't mess with it but if it's the cover then I make a decision to pull the seal and cover and install the new one or bust out some rtv. I'd say a new cover and seal and rtv in the corners near the oil pan.
I can't wait to get rid of this boat anchor. Drives me nuts.
Looks like Nikdsc5 was right..the tool referenced above is a bit of snake oil action as the big white plastic ring that comes on the seal is the tool that's used to center it up....
Also looks like the crank needs to be clean and dry in order for the teflon seal to seat properly...
Looks like Nikdsc5 was right..the tool referenced above is a bit of snake oil action as the big white plastic ring that comes on the seal is the tool that's used to center it up....
Also looks like the crank needs to be clean and dry in order for the teflon seal to seat properly...
Well, not snake oil necessarily. But they are completely unnecessary. Do they work? Yes. Do you need they or are the required? F-No. I will say that they are some VERY nice seal installers though! Perfect size and material to do just that.
good to know about the disc being a tool on the rear cover, I remember when I ordered this a few months back I did some research and determined why I didnt need a tool (or I wouldve bought it). Thanks for clarifying, let us know how the install goes!
Well I found out where my oil consumption was occurring. Doing my LS7 Slave, PP and flywheel install and was happy and sad to see this 3.5 lbs of slop (oil and Clutch disc material. Happy that I'm not burning oil and found out where it was going, bummed I have to do the seal now.
Ok but with regard to OP, is the consensus to do just the seal? I think even a cup with the exact diameter will put the seal in evenly but is there some "magic" to make it seat right? Or is the cover with the seal, gasket, rtv and oil pan removal, gasket and rtv the recommended method. The point is to get it right so I don't contaminate my new LS7 steel FW, Disc and PP. Thoughts?
In the stickies there is a clutch install write up that has some good pics of replacing the rear seal, includes step by step too. I wouldn't see a need to replace the entire cover, the seal is like 15-20 bucks.
06-02-2014, 12:54 PM
Replace cover or replace seal... 
