Aftermarket Driveshaft Options....
07-24-2014, 11:33 AM
#62
I have no doubt that I'll have no problem with the driveshaft I get from you guys and I appreciate your continued interest in this.
But from what these guys are saying, you could put a driveshaft in this car that was designed and built by NASA and it would still vibrate because there's more to it than just the driveshaft.
DSS, do you think the runouts of the transmission output shaft and the diff input shaft play any role in driveline vibration and if you do, will the dual CV driveshaft compensate for it?
Thanks again for your interest!
But from what these guys are saying, you could put a driveshaft in this car that was designed and built by NASA and it would still vibrate because there's more to it than just the driveshaft.
DSS, do you think the runouts of the transmission output shaft and the diff input shaft play any role in driveline vibration and if you do, will the dual CV driveshaft compensate for it?
Thanks again for your interest!
07-24-2014, 12:06 PM
#63
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Yes you are correct, most trans shafts normally spin straight, When we received our high speed balancer the NASCAR guys found out and wanted a bunch of parts tested and i have to admit i was surprised with some of the things we found out and what they shared. The spline on a pinion can be off, the yoke or flange center line can be off the yokes on both ends of the shaft and trans can have center line issues.
They had brought this tool by to show us what they were doing, they would bolt this into a diff and find out the high and low (with different manufacturer yokes we saw were .010 to .030 off center parts)
what they were doing is marking the high and low of the pinion yoke and then measuring the driveshaft and matching them, now keep in mind what you are referencing to and the type system the CTS uses is different, the little pin that comes out of the trans is ground with the bearing journals so using a plate to attach using this pin as the centering device will be very good.
i have yet to see a CV mount on the diff be off, it can happen but i have not seen it yet.
Keep in mind there is no such thing as perfect balance, our high speed machine can be set to read a piece of tape on the tube, as soon as you un-bolt it and re-bolt it up it will change, this is why there are standards of balance. with all that is going on the un-balance has to be under a detectable range (so you dont feel it or it will not damage anything in the drivetrain) but torquing one bolt before the others are tight will throw the center off along with the things you discussed. just be as careful as you can when installing a shaft, checking is always good but most will be 100%.
They had brought this tool by to show us what they were doing, they would bolt this into a diff and find out the high and low (with different manufacturer yokes we saw were .010 to .030 off center parts)
what they were doing is marking the high and low of the pinion yoke and then measuring the driveshaft and matching them, now keep in mind what you are referencing to and the type system the CTS uses is different, the little pin that comes out of the trans is ground with the bearing journals so using a plate to attach using this pin as the centering device will be very good.
i have yet to see a CV mount on the diff be off, it can happen but i have not seen it yet.
Keep in mind there is no such thing as perfect balance, our high speed machine can be set to read a piece of tape on the tube, as soon as you un-bolt it and re-bolt it up it will change, this is why there are standards of balance. with all that is going on the un-balance has to be under a detectable range (so you dont feel it or it will not damage anything in the drivetrain) but torquing one bolt before the others are tight will throw the center off along with the things you discussed. just be as careful as you can when installing a shaft, checking is always good but most will be 100%.
07-26-2014, 11:46 PM
#64
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Yes you are correct, most trans shafts normally spin straight, When we received our high speed balancer the NASCAR guys found out and wanted a bunch of parts tested and i have to admit i was surprised with some of the things we found out and what they shared. The spline on a pinion can be off, the yoke or flange center line can be off the yokes on both ends of the shaft and trans can have center line issues.
They had brought this tool by to show us what they were doing, they would bolt this into a diff and find out the high and low (with different manufacturer yokes we saw were .010 to .030 off center parts)
what they were doing is marking the high and low of the pinion yoke and then measuring the driveshaft and matching them, now keep in mind what you are referencing to and the type system the CTS uses is different, the little pin that comes out of the trans is ground with the bearing journals so using a plate to attach using this pin as the centering device will be very good.
i have yet to see a CV mount on the diff be off, it can happen but i have not seen it yet.
Keep in mind there is no such thing as perfect balance, our high speed machine can be set to read a piece of tape on the tube, as soon as you un-bolt it and re-bolt it up it will change, this is why there are standards of balance. with all that is going on the un-balance has to be under a detectable range (so you dont feel it or it will not damage anything in the drivetrain) but torquing one bolt before the others are tight will throw the center off along with the things you discussed. just be as careful as you can when installing a shaft, checking is always good but most will be 100%.
They had brought this tool by to show us what they were doing, they would bolt this into a diff and find out the high and low (with different manufacturer yokes we saw were .010 to .030 off center parts)
what they were doing is marking the high and low of the pinion yoke and then measuring the driveshaft and matching them, now keep in mind what you are referencing to and the type system the CTS uses is different, the little pin that comes out of the trans is ground with the bearing journals so using a plate to attach using this pin as the centering device will be very good.
i have yet to see a CV mount on the diff be off, it can happen but i have not seen it yet.
Keep in mind there is no such thing as perfect balance, our high speed machine can be set to read a piece of tape on the tube, as soon as you un-bolt it and re-bolt it up it will change, this is why there are standards of balance. with all that is going on the un-balance has to be under a detectable range (so you dont feel it or it will not damage anything in the drivetrain) but torquing one bolt before the others are tight will throw the center off along with the things you discussed. just be as careful as you can when installing a shaft, checking is always good but most will be 100%.
Did you guys update anything on your 2 piece 8.8 drive shaft im getting a wierd ressonounce around 2300 rpm. From the drive shaft
07-28-2014, 10:09 AM
#66
So I went ahead and ordered the carbon 1 piece with twin CVs straight from DSS on Friday. They matched the ebay price except for shipping so I went ahead and ate that $40 bucks to get rid of the 3rd party. They've been very good on the phone and just showing up on the forums goes a long way in my book.
Hopefully the twin CVs will correct for any alignment issues I may have and the light weight of the CF tube will keep it from whipping without the need for the complexity added by the 2 piece design but if I put the CF shaft in and still have vibrations, I'll be checking the runouts on either end of the shaft before pointing the finger at the shaft itself. It's mind boggling to me that the Cobra guy referenced here
http://www.mustangandfords.com/parts...reduction-kit/
had to use 10grams of weight to compensate for a driveshaft that was spinning just .002 off center.
Keeping my fingers crossed.....
Hopefully the twin CVs will correct for any alignment issues I may have and the light weight of the CF tube will keep it from whipping without the need for the complexity added by the 2 piece design but if I put the CF shaft in and still have vibrations, I'll be checking the runouts on either end of the shaft before pointing the finger at the shaft itself. It's mind boggling to me that the Cobra guy referenced here
http://www.mustangandfords.com/parts...reduction-kit/
had to use 10grams of weight to compensate for a driveshaft that was spinning just .002 off center.
Keeping my fingers crossed.....
Last edited by ls1247; 07-28-2014 at 10:22 AM.
07-28-2014, 10:48 AM
#67
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So I went ahead and ordered the carbon 1 piece with twin CVs straight from DSS on Friday. They matched the ebay price except for shipping so I went ahead and ate that $40 bucks to get rid of the 3rd party. They've been very good on the phone and just showing up on the forums goes a long way in my book.
Hopefully the twin CVs will correct for any alignment issues I may have and the light weight of the CF tube will keep it from whipping without the need for the complexity added by the 2 piece design but if I put the CF shaft in and still have vibrations, I'll be checking the runouts on either end of the shaft before pointing the finger at the shaft itself. It's mind boggling to me that the Cobra guy referenced here
http://www.mustangandfords.com/parts...reduction-kit/
had to use 10grams of weight to compensate for a driveshaft that was spinning just .002 off center.
Keeping my fingers crossed.....
Hopefully the twin CVs will correct for any alignment issues I may have and the light weight of the CF tube will keep it from whipping without the need for the complexity added by the 2 piece design but if I put the CF shaft in and still have vibrations, I'll be checking the runouts on either end of the shaft before pointing the finger at the shaft itself. It's mind boggling to me that the Cobra guy referenced here
http://www.mustangandfords.com/parts...reduction-kit/
had to use 10grams of weight to compensate for a driveshaft that was spinning just .002 off center.
Keeping my fingers crossed.....
09-26-2014, 08:36 AM
#68
So working on week 9 waiting for the DSS shaft and I was told yesterday that the shaft was complete but couldn't be balanced because it had too much runout and they'll have to make me a new one.
Kudos for them for not just chucking it out the door and also kudos for them for not telling me 14 different stories because I've been calling religiously since week 6 and the information has been consistent.
At this point, all I could do is laugh...
The discussion regarding driveshaft alignment picked up in the thread below if you're interested.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...installed.html
Kudos for them for not just chucking it out the door and also kudos for them for not telling me 14 different stories because I've been calling religiously since week 6 and the information has been consistent.
At this point, all I could do is laugh...
The discussion regarding driveshaft alignment picked up in the thread below if you're interested.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...installed.html
10-08-2014, 01:15 PM
#69
So the conversation got a little sidetracked on these other threads....
https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...l#post18466103
https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...onnectors.html
Just to recap, the carbon 1 piece should come with 2 cv adapters and both are supposed to be balanced with the shaft and indexed accordingly. After not receiving the adapters with the shaft, I drove up to Salisbury, NC (1+ hour drive) to pickup the adapters which they had in stock and gladly handed over to me. My adapters didn't appear to be indexed or balanced with the shaft but I didn't know this at the time and apparently, neither did the "counter guys".
I installed the shaft and in my mind it came in a little on the short side but Frank was able to expertly explain it away to my satisfaction at the length it is, which is 60" fully extended, 59" fully retracted.
I also reread the only literature that came with the shaft which is the procedure used to check the CV "plunge" and after reading the thread above where 07CTS-V said his was hitting the limit at 5 3/4", I had that dimension in my head. However, the literature that came with the shaft has been updated to 5 7/8" which means my shaft is very close to operating in what I would consider to be the most efficient zone of 5 5/8" while in use...my mistake
Further, the CVs used in this shaft are German made 930 Porsche CVs and after using them for years in off-road applications, I feel pretty freaking studly knowing I've got a pair of those bad boys on my shaft....
We went on to discuss driveline angles and the CVs ability to compensate for misalignment. It was his studied opinion based on decades of experience that the 930s should indeed compensate for any and all misalignment of most ordinary drivelines. From personal experience a stock, non-blueprinted Porsche 930 CV is rated for up to 18 degrees of articulation and we aren't anywhere even remotely close to that.
From there we discussed my specific issues and in my mind it is mostly harmonics, partly vibration if this makes sense. He said a Carbon shaft is going to be a little more likely to transmit harmonics for big fancy words that were over my head so I'll take his word for it. Futhermore....poly mounts are more likely to transmit these harmonics.
I bothered him further by asking him about the runouts sited in the link I posted earlier in this thread and he just couldn't convince himself that .002 of an inch was appreciable enough to detect if I heard right through more big words I was choking on.
SO basically this leaves me with....
1. Replace transmission mount with a stock unit and see where this takes me...
2. Remove shaft, take it back to Salisbury where they'll rebalance it while I wait....Lexington BBQ here I come.
3. I will try harder to get accurate runout readings and more specifically,find out just how much play is in my pinion shaft.
4. Just for grins, do all I can to optimize my alignment issues just in case.
While I had his attention, I asked about the adapter I'll eventually be using when I swap to an 8.8 and while he hasn't made any as of yet, it's certainly doable and I'll hold him to it. I also asked if they had any "in-house" installation services so I could somehow separate myself from even more cash but he said they did not...
I'll take another day off Friday and take care of the footwork and let you know what I come up with.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...l#post18466103
https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...onnectors.html
Just to recap, the carbon 1 piece should come with 2 cv adapters and both are supposed to be balanced with the shaft and indexed accordingly. After not receiving the adapters with the shaft, I drove up to Salisbury, NC (1+ hour drive) to pickup the adapters which they had in stock and gladly handed over to me. My adapters didn't appear to be indexed or balanced with the shaft but I didn't know this at the time and apparently, neither did the "counter guys".
I installed the shaft and in my mind it came in a little on the short side but Frank was able to expertly explain it away to my satisfaction at the length it is, which is 60" fully extended, 59" fully retracted.
I also reread the only literature that came with the shaft which is the procedure used to check the CV "plunge" and after reading the thread above where 07CTS-V said his was hitting the limit at 5 3/4", I had that dimension in my head. However, the literature that came with the shaft has been updated to 5 7/8" which means my shaft is very close to operating in what I would consider to be the most efficient zone of 5 5/8" while in use...my mistake
Further, the CVs used in this shaft are German made 930 Porsche CVs and after using them for years in off-road applications, I feel pretty freaking studly knowing I've got a pair of those bad boys on my shaft....
We went on to discuss driveline angles and the CVs ability to compensate for misalignment. It was his studied opinion based on decades of experience that the 930s should indeed compensate for any and all misalignment of most ordinary drivelines. From personal experience a stock, non-blueprinted Porsche 930 CV is rated for up to 18 degrees of articulation and we aren't anywhere even remotely close to that.
From there we discussed my specific issues and in my mind it is mostly harmonics, partly vibration if this makes sense. He said a Carbon shaft is going to be a little more likely to transmit harmonics for big fancy words that were over my head so I'll take his word for it. Futhermore....poly mounts are more likely to transmit these harmonics.
I bothered him further by asking him about the runouts sited in the link I posted earlier in this thread and he just couldn't convince himself that .002 of an inch was appreciable enough to detect if I heard right through more big words I was choking on.
SO basically this leaves me with....
1. Replace transmission mount with a stock unit and see where this takes me...
2. Remove shaft, take it back to Salisbury where they'll rebalance it while I wait....Lexington BBQ here I come.
3. I will try harder to get accurate runout readings and more specifically,find out just how much play is in my pinion shaft.
4. Just for grins, do all I can to optimize my alignment issues just in case.
While I had his attention, I asked about the adapter I'll eventually be using when I swap to an 8.8 and while he hasn't made any as of yet, it's certainly doable and I'll hold him to it. I also asked if they had any "in-house" installation services so I could somehow separate myself from even more cash but he said they did not...
I'll take another day off Friday and take care of the footwork and let you know what I come up with.
Last edited by ls1247; 10-08-2014 at 01:29 PM.
10-09-2014, 02:09 AM
#70
I've got a CS 8.8 kit with a single CV joint and I'm chasing a vibration. Ive changed the orientation 5 of the 8 possible positions. So far it is in the best location(least vibration). Max sent me the laser alignment tool and trans bushing was shot. After changing the trans mount it helped significantly but vibration is still there at about 100-120 mph and then goes away... Any ideas? How much variance can the single CV handle?
10-09-2014, 08:39 AM
#71
I was hoping to buy a new GM transmission mount but there isn't one available from any of the standard aftermarket sources or amazon.
I call Cadillac and they quoted me...................$526.00!!!!!!!!!!!!
Holy f*** me....I tossed mine thinking, in error apparently, that the CS mount was going to be the cure to all my ills but seemingly like everything else I touch on this car, I'm not so sure.
So, its time to take the head porting tool to my CS mount and see where this takes me....there's also a CTS at the local bone yard, may see if its a modifiable substitute.
In the mean time, thought I'd share some of the angles I found using a digital angle gauge I bought off Amazon for $26.
The transmission output shaft angle varied between 87.1 and 87.5 degrees depending on how it was positioned...rotate output shaft, numbers changed. Is it possible that this flange isn't very straight even though the shaft itself is? Sure, why not. Could this cause problems with a poly guibo or an aluminum replacement...you bet.
The pinion shaft came in at 85.4 degrees and was seemingly consistent no matter what position it was rotated to.
To get really really good numbers off these oddly shaped flanges you would need to get a piece of plate steel and drill it so you could bolt it to the flange you're measuring so you could have a truly flat surface to measure off of. The numbers above are reasonably close but not close enough to conclusively convince myself that my transmissions output shaft flange isn't straight but I have my suspicions.
So what I have is a full 2 degrees here and from all we're hearing about the operation of the stock shaft or a shaft with u-joints, this is a huge issue. With some basic math, I would have to lower the transmission close to an inch to even these angles up. As I've been told that my CVs will compensate for this, I'm not going way out of my way (yet) to correct this but I was hoping to get the factory mount because I feel certain it would lower the trans without having to find longer crossmember bolts and stack a bunch of freakin washers....a full inch? I don't know but some none the less.
I could also shim the rear cradle bolts to effectively adjust the pinion angle or, if I had adjustable height motor mounts, lift the engine up to lower the transmission down in the rear...I like this option the best (if theres room in the transmission tunnel for the shift rod as you lift all this up) but it isn't currently available. Yes, I'm dropping hints 07CTS-V.
If my driveshaft continues to be unruly after a rebalance and mount mod, I'll make a "measuring plate", bolt it on and get really good measurements at all degrees of rotations so I can get to the bottom of this mess. Actually I may be able to just use some vice-grip style clamps instead of drilling and bolting.
Also, I was hoping to get angular measurements horizontally but the "magic angle box" doesn't work on a horizontal so I have to resort to the hammer and stone old school approach that won't be pretty but will work none the less....
In other words, I have a good idea of how out of whack my driveline is up and down but no clue how it is side to side and unfortunately, even if I found some issue here, there is very little I could do to correct it unless I had some sort of an adjustable motor mount.
Now, regarding indexing....f***, I'm not looking forward to that chore. Do you have to index the driveshaft to the adapters and the adapters to the transmission and pinion shafts? Because if you do this is a dizzing amount of possible mounting options and I would be dead and buried before I got through them all. This is where I'm hoping the runouts will play a role. In my mind, and again, this is in my mind because after searching high and low, I haven't found definitive information regarding this, when you index the shaft aren't you just compensating for what could be a little bit of runout? The problem is I have the runout on the transmission output shaft (TOS), the adapter that is between the TOS and the CV, the CV itself and the same 3 round things on the pinion shaft...This is a daunting task here folks and I'm so hoping that the next round of "fixes" will take care of my issues. But if not, I'll try weighting all this just like the cobra guys did in the link I posted earlier in this thread before going through the index guessing game....
Wish me luck.....
I'll keep you posted...
I call Cadillac and they quoted me...................$526.00!!!!!!!!!!!!
Holy f*** me....I tossed mine thinking, in error apparently, that the CS mount was going to be the cure to all my ills but seemingly like everything else I touch on this car, I'm not so sure.
So, its time to take the head porting tool to my CS mount and see where this takes me....there's also a CTS at the local bone yard, may see if its a modifiable substitute.
In the mean time, thought I'd share some of the angles I found using a digital angle gauge I bought off Amazon for $26.
The transmission output shaft angle varied between 87.1 and 87.5 degrees depending on how it was positioned...rotate output shaft, numbers changed. Is it possible that this flange isn't very straight even though the shaft itself is? Sure, why not. Could this cause problems with a poly guibo or an aluminum replacement...you bet.
The pinion shaft came in at 85.4 degrees and was seemingly consistent no matter what position it was rotated to.
To get really really good numbers off these oddly shaped flanges you would need to get a piece of plate steel and drill it so you could bolt it to the flange you're measuring so you could have a truly flat surface to measure off of. The numbers above are reasonably close but not close enough to conclusively convince myself that my transmissions output shaft flange isn't straight but I have my suspicions.
So what I have is a full 2 degrees here and from all we're hearing about the operation of the stock shaft or a shaft with u-joints, this is a huge issue. With some basic math, I would have to lower the transmission close to an inch to even these angles up. As I've been told that my CVs will compensate for this, I'm not going way out of my way (yet) to correct this but I was hoping to get the factory mount because I feel certain it would lower the trans without having to find longer crossmember bolts and stack a bunch of freakin washers....a full inch? I don't know but some none the less.
I could also shim the rear cradle bolts to effectively adjust the pinion angle or, if I had adjustable height motor mounts, lift the engine up to lower the transmission down in the rear...I like this option the best (if theres room in the transmission tunnel for the shift rod as you lift all this up) but it isn't currently available. Yes, I'm dropping hints 07CTS-V.
If my driveshaft continues to be unruly after a rebalance and mount mod, I'll make a "measuring plate", bolt it on and get really good measurements at all degrees of rotations so I can get to the bottom of this mess. Actually I may be able to just use some vice-grip style clamps instead of drilling and bolting.
Also, I was hoping to get angular measurements horizontally but the "magic angle box" doesn't work on a horizontal so I have to resort to the hammer and stone old school approach that won't be pretty but will work none the less....
In other words, I have a good idea of how out of whack my driveline is up and down but no clue how it is side to side and unfortunately, even if I found some issue here, there is very little I could do to correct it unless I had some sort of an adjustable motor mount.
Now, regarding indexing....f***, I'm not looking forward to that chore. Do you have to index the driveshaft to the adapters and the adapters to the transmission and pinion shafts? Because if you do this is a dizzing amount of possible mounting options and I would be dead and buried before I got through them all. This is where I'm hoping the runouts will play a role. In my mind, and again, this is in my mind because after searching high and low, I haven't found definitive information regarding this, when you index the shaft aren't you just compensating for what could be a little bit of runout? The problem is I have the runout on the transmission output shaft (TOS), the adapter that is between the TOS and the CV, the CV itself and the same 3 round things on the pinion shaft...This is a daunting task here folks and I'm so hoping that the next round of "fixes" will take care of my issues. But if not, I'll try weighting all this just like the cobra guys did in the link I posted earlier in this thread before going through the index guessing game....
Wish me luck.....
I'll keep you posted...
Last edited by ls1247; 10-09-2014 at 09:11 AM.
10-09-2014, 06:59 PM
#74
got under the car tonight to pull the shaft out for rebalance but before doing so I took my ancient dial indicator and took the runouts on the various components that makeup this contraption...
Transmission output shaft......n/a (too oddly shaped)
trans to CV adapter.....003"
front cv joint.......024"
rear cv joint......009"
rear adapter.....002"
pinion shaft......002"
Transmission output shaft......n/a (too oddly shaped)
trans to CV adapter.....003"
front cv joint.......024"
rear cv joint......009"
rear adapter.....002"
pinion shaft......002"
10-12-2014, 11:35 AM
#75
I went to DSS where they promptly told me I was missing yet more parts. The grease covers were missing and they serve dual purposes....they hold the grease in an index the CV with the adapter.
No covers, no CV index, CV wobbles, lots of runout=vibrations.
DSS was very apologetic and the counter guy knew my name because Frank actually told them to expect me. They balanced up the shaft and I was out of there in a couple of hours. Mistakes were made, s*** happens and I'll be asking for a discount on my 8.8 adapter.
Go to install shaft and saw some recently reported to me superficial transmission mount separation but I used it as an opportunity to lower the transmission a little to improve my driveline angles, increase driveshaft tunnel clearance, implement a slightly softer mounting materiel and as maybe a placebo affect added bonus, improve the geometry on my shift linkage or shift linkage clearance with the floorpan because it seems to shift just a little cleaner.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...an-t-good.html
The car is smooth as silk to 110 but I ran out of room and couldn't stretch it out further than that...
At the end of the day, was this worth it? yes and no....
No because it appears that there will soon be a viable alternative that cost substantially less than any of the replacement options. No because this shaft didn't appear to be substantially lighter than the one it replaced. No because I'm making stock power levels.
Yes because I won't be making stock power levels forever and I have a feeling the stock shaft is only good for so much power, yes because it's more simplified mechanically than the 2 piece it replaced and yes because I plan on keeping the car and think its worth the investment in the extreme long haul.
No covers, no CV index, CV wobbles, lots of runout=vibrations.
DSS was very apologetic and the counter guy knew my name because Frank actually told them to expect me. They balanced up the shaft and I was out of there in a couple of hours. Mistakes were made, s*** happens and I'll be asking for a discount on my 8.8 adapter.
Go to install shaft and saw some recently reported to me superficial transmission mount separation but I used it as an opportunity to lower the transmission a little to improve my driveline angles, increase driveshaft tunnel clearance, implement a slightly softer mounting materiel and as maybe a placebo affect added bonus, improve the geometry on my shift linkage or shift linkage clearance with the floorpan because it seems to shift just a little cleaner.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...an-t-good.html
The car is smooth as silk to 110 but I ran out of room and couldn't stretch it out further than that...
At the end of the day, was this worth it? yes and no....
No because it appears that there will soon be a viable alternative that cost substantially less than any of the replacement options. No because this shaft didn't appear to be substantially lighter than the one it replaced. No because I'm making stock power levels.
Yes because I won't be making stock power levels forever and I have a feeling the stock shaft is only good for so much power, yes because it's more simplified mechanically than the 2 piece it replaced and yes because I plan on keeping the car and think its worth the investment in the extreme long haul.
10-12-2014, 11:49 AM
#76
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What was the reasoning behind your package missing pretty much everything minus the shaft and hardware?
Seems you are the only so far to have had this insane amount of neglect, I could see maybe one thing missing but all of it?
Finally you can enjoy a smooth(er) ride!
Seems you are the only so far to have had this insane amount of neglect, I could see maybe one thing missing but all of it?
Finally you can enjoy a smooth(er) ride!
10-12-2014, 12:02 PM
#77
So I'm riding their ***, the shaft has been remade at least once, its Friday afternoon and the shipping clerk confused it with a V2 shaft which apparently doesn't use some of this hardware.
In other words, who knows Becker.....
10-12-2014, 05:26 PM
#80
As any who may know a little about my mantra around here, I would have purchased a brand new factory part in this situation over an aftermarket part because of this very scenario, even if it cost more. Love it, hate it, whatever you want to do, but if I'm opening a box that has GM written on it, chances are much better that I won't be going through this kind of ****.
Unfortunately, the factory unit in stock form is just barely up to the task at hand and GM didn't see fit to offer anything better than what the car originally came with. Seeing as I'll be modifying the car to perform outside the parameters the engineers built into the car, I just didn't have much choice but to seek parts from the aftermarket and suffer through this.
I also read of many on the forums being disappointed that their mechanics won't install their aftermarket parts. If I had tried to install this for a customer, it would have been a money losing deal in every sense of the word because the shaft didn't even come with so much as a packing list to describe what should have been included with it and how it should have gone together. Towards the end of my wrench turning career, I had learned to steer clear of this kind of crap....
Should I have known that I was missing parts...maybe. I've been on the forums for a couple of years and researched the **** out of this but not once have I seen a detailed description of how this all worked and went together. I'll give myself a pass because a driveshaft of this caliber is something I've never worked with and neither have many of the mechanics that many would expect to do this for them.