Aftermarket Driveshaft Options....
#42
thanks for the replies!
So the angles above will show the relationship between the transmission and the diff from a vertical perspective but how does their alignment horizontally affect how all this works? If the transmission output shaft is pointed slightly towards lets say the right rear wheel and the diffs input shaft is pointed slightly towards the left front wheel, how do we compensate for this or do the u-joints/cv's take care of this....not much room for movement now that all the mounts have been changed and I played a little hell getting the UMI motor mounts into place...i can only hope that the powertrain is square with the drivetrain but i'm not hopeful.
Also, how are the adapters for the 8.8 swap coming along and will we be able to use one on the 2 piece pictured above if we buy your 2 piece as a factory replacement shaft on a stock diff???
Thanks again!!
So the angles above will show the relationship between the transmission and the diff from a vertical perspective but how does their alignment horizontally affect how all this works? If the transmission output shaft is pointed slightly towards lets say the right rear wheel and the diffs input shaft is pointed slightly towards the left front wheel, how do we compensate for this or do the u-joints/cv's take care of this....not much room for movement now that all the mounts have been changed and I played a little hell getting the UMI motor mounts into place...i can only hope that the powertrain is square with the drivetrain but i'm not hopeful.
Also, how are the adapters for the 8.8 swap coming along and will we be able to use one on the 2 piece pictured above if we buy your 2 piece as a factory replacement shaft on a stock diff???
Thanks again!!
#44
I haven't checked mine as of yet, still deciding which way to go with the driveshaft. But if I spend a grand or more on a driveshaft ill be disappointed if it still vibrates. Just looking for answers.
#45
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (3)
The motor mounts are pretty firmly located but there is a little wiggle room on the transmission crossmember. Probably a little movement on the rear cradle mounts to.
I haven't checked mine as of yet, still deciding which way to go with the driveshaft. But if I spend a grand or more on a driveshaft ill be disappointed if it still vibrates. Just looking for answers.
I haven't checked mine as of yet, still deciding which way to go with the driveshaft. But if I spend a grand or more on a driveshaft ill be disappointed if it still vibrates. Just looking for answers.
#49
Kinda looks like a dual cv, carbon fiber 1 piece is the best way to go if you can pony up the extra dollars for it...
reasons?
1 - haven't heard any complaints about it.
2 - high critical speed.
3- tendency to act as a driveline "cushion" - some have argued that this isn't happening but many drag racers swear by a CF driveshafts ability to help minimize driveline destruciton.
4 - lack of complication
5 - increase in performance. Some will argue this as well but from my own personal experience, taking weight out of the driveshaft has made cars I've owned more responsive.
After researching it a good bit, I came to the conclusion that the reason caddy put a 2 piece in it to begin with were strictly economic. Because of a heavy driveshafts tendency to "whip" (which causes vibrations), it seems (IMHO) that the factory steel unit was built in 2 pieces to compensate for that....I can't find any other reason for it. From reports here of how light the tube section of a CF shaft is, there just really isn't enough mass to cause this whipping effect and therefore, the carbon shafts are smooth.
Beyond that, we need look no further than the Mustang for a little real world lesson in driveshaft usage. The factory shaft in the lesser Mustangs is a 2 piece steel unit but the GT500 gets a carbon one piece from the factory which tells me that material is more critical than length when it comes to the 1 piece, 2 piece debate. The GTO community also seems to have a love affair going with the CF shaft offered by G-force...too bad they don't offer a cts-v shaft and give DSS a little competition on this!
Heres a link to the gt500 shaft...www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Vb0HaGq8Ck
So I went ebay shopping and found the DSS CF V1 shaft for 1349 but its a little unclear whether its a 1 or 2 cv joint shaft. Called the driveshaft shop and gave them the part number listed in the ebay add and they said that was a part number for a 1 cv shaft but it has been superceded to a new part number, GMCTS-C-2 and that all CF shafts made from now on will be the 2 cv shafts. He also said that the chnaces that the ebay vendor has a 1 cv shaft in stock is next to impossible. This is good news with the number of complaints about driveline vibrations in this car, it seems the dual cv shaft is going to be the way to go to accommodate any and all driveline angle challenges this car may have, both vertical and horizontal....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Driveshaft-Shop-Gmcts1-C-Carbon-Fiber-1-Piece-Cv-Driveshaft-fit-Cadillac-CTS-V-/380820247172?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item58aaa7d284&vxp=mtr
I would much rather deal straight with the manufacturer on something like this but over the phone, they won't match the 1349 price shown above and holding at 1499 - ouch! I was advised to send the owner an email begging for the discount so I'm doing that now....
any interest in a small group buy on this??
reasons?
1 - haven't heard any complaints about it.
2 - high critical speed.
3- tendency to act as a driveline "cushion" - some have argued that this isn't happening but many drag racers swear by a CF driveshafts ability to help minimize driveline destruciton.
4 - lack of complication
5 - increase in performance. Some will argue this as well but from my own personal experience, taking weight out of the driveshaft has made cars I've owned more responsive.
After researching it a good bit, I came to the conclusion that the reason caddy put a 2 piece in it to begin with were strictly economic. Because of a heavy driveshafts tendency to "whip" (which causes vibrations), it seems (IMHO) that the factory steel unit was built in 2 pieces to compensate for that....I can't find any other reason for it. From reports here of how light the tube section of a CF shaft is, there just really isn't enough mass to cause this whipping effect and therefore, the carbon shafts are smooth.
Beyond that, we need look no further than the Mustang for a little real world lesson in driveshaft usage. The factory shaft in the lesser Mustangs is a 2 piece steel unit but the GT500 gets a carbon one piece from the factory which tells me that material is more critical than length when it comes to the 1 piece, 2 piece debate. The GTO community also seems to have a love affair going with the CF shaft offered by G-force...too bad they don't offer a cts-v shaft and give DSS a little competition on this!
Heres a link to the gt500 shaft...www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Vb0HaGq8Ck
So I went ebay shopping and found the DSS CF V1 shaft for 1349 but its a little unclear whether its a 1 or 2 cv joint shaft. Called the driveshaft shop and gave them the part number listed in the ebay add and they said that was a part number for a 1 cv shaft but it has been superceded to a new part number, GMCTS-C-2 and that all CF shafts made from now on will be the 2 cv shafts. He also said that the chnaces that the ebay vendor has a 1 cv shaft in stock is next to impossible. This is good news with the number of complaints about driveline vibrations in this car, it seems the dual cv shaft is going to be the way to go to accommodate any and all driveline angle challenges this car may have, both vertical and horizontal....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Driveshaft-Shop-Gmcts1-C-Carbon-Fiber-1-Piece-Cv-Driveshaft-fit-Cadillac-CTS-V-/380820247172?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item58aaa7d284&vxp=mtr
I would much rather deal straight with the manufacturer on something like this but over the phone, they won't match the 1349 price shown above and holding at 1499 - ouch! I was advised to send the owner an email begging for the discount so I'm doing that now....
any interest in a small group buy on this??
Last edited by ls1247; 07-18-2014 at 01:49 PM.
#59
Launching!
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Charlotte NC
Posts: 261
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#60
After a week on the road with work, I'm at the office and bored so I kept digging for answers because I want my Cadillac to be as smooth as the 25 year old MR2 it's replacing. After seeing post like the one lsx vette posted yesterday, you begin to wonder.
So it looks like we aren't the only ones with driveline vibrations in IRS equipped cars. I attached a pic of a balancing solution posed by some Ford guys who went with a PST carbon shaft in their 03 Cobra....worked for them.
If you read the article, they were able to pinpoint runout to 1 thousandths of an inch in their driveline centerlines. You can see where they measured with a dial indicator but I'm not sure I could get down to a margin of error as tight as they say their runouts are.....Because I don't want this to drag out once I install my new driveshaft, I'm going to attempt to measure the runouts on the trans ouput shaft and the diff input shaft and then mark the highest points on them so that if I have vibrations after installing what I believe will be a well balanced driveshaft, i can start adding counterweights like these guys did.
http://www.mustangandfords.com/parts...reduction-kit/
You could drive yourself crazy trying to balance the driveline (not the drivesahft) using washers under the pinion bolts but you're not compensating for a driveshaft that's out of balance, you're compensating for the fact that the output shaft in the transmission and the input shaft in the diff aren't perfectly straight. From what they are saying, this wasn't an issue in solid axle cars because of all the movement going on but i guess when you solidly mount all this stuff, it becomes a problem.
WTF!
So it looks like we aren't the only ones with driveline vibrations in IRS equipped cars. I attached a pic of a balancing solution posed by some Ford guys who went with a PST carbon shaft in their 03 Cobra....worked for them.
If you read the article, they were able to pinpoint runout to 1 thousandths of an inch in their driveline centerlines. You can see where they measured with a dial indicator but I'm not sure I could get down to a margin of error as tight as they say their runouts are.....Because I don't want this to drag out once I install my new driveshaft, I'm going to attempt to measure the runouts on the trans ouput shaft and the diff input shaft and then mark the highest points on them so that if I have vibrations after installing what I believe will be a well balanced driveshaft, i can start adding counterweights like these guys did.
http://www.mustangandfords.com/parts...reduction-kit/
You could drive yourself crazy trying to balance the driveline (not the drivesahft) using washers under the pinion bolts but you're not compensating for a driveshaft that's out of balance, you're compensating for the fact that the output shaft in the transmission and the input shaft in the diff aren't perfectly straight. From what they are saying, this wasn't an issue in solid axle cars because of all the movement going on but i guess when you solidly mount all this stuff, it becomes a problem.
WTF!
Last edited by ls1247; 07-24-2014 at 11:24 AM.