Lbar

EDIT I solved my problem with a Motive Pressure Bleeder and 2.5 quarts of brake fluid.

Per my Check Those Brake Lines thread, I lost the line that goes the drivers side rear wheel. Before that incident I had a rock hard pedal. I bled the brakes per the instructions on Cadillac FAQ, but I found two different bleeding orders. I went with RR/LR/RF/LF (inside bleeder first of course) instead of RR,LF,LR,RF.

I bled beyond the point of getting clear fluid using the two person Up...Down... method.

My pedal is terrible, it has an initial bite where it should and it fades as you are coming to a stop. Midway down it stops receding and holds but the actual amount of stopping power is maybe 50%. There are no leaks in the system, no rubber hoses ballooning.

I thought maybe the ABS unit needed cycled so I ran the car through a field at about 35mph and locked them up. This was fun, did it a few times. No change.

DMM

My guess is the master. You stated you were pumping the pedal when your line ruptured and doing so with an older master can nick the seals so they don't hold pressure. It can happen anytime and older seal travels past a certain point in a bore.

If you can't find a leak anywhere else, it's got to be in the master.

bmylez

iTrader: (3)

Are you sure locking up the brakes a couple times cycles the ABS module enough? It's pretty rudimentary and only a Tech II can cycle it properly...just a thought.

RADEoN

iTrader: (12)

You can do it with a mityvac. A tech ii will do it, as will a snap on modis.

They've bled brakes before the tech ii and modis. This isn't much different. You have air in your line.

Lbar

After reading this it seems this is a very common problem, and no one seemed to find a solution which is ******* awesome.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...lems-help.html

Lbar

That is a good suggestion. Though I read that other thread and saw someone replace theirs chasing this issue around and it didn't solve the problem. I had a GTI very briefly that had this same issue after I replaced a rear brake line. I read about how the ABS had to be cycled by the dealer. I did nothing and drove the car around for a few weeks. The air pocket worked itself out and afterwards I bled again getting a great pedal.

Though seeing all these people, especially Fuzzy Logic, not being able to figure out what is wrong is very discouraging.

Lbar

When you say IT you mean cycle the ABS? I too have bled many brakes before and this is much different. A non ABS system would not have given me or most of the other people struggling with this issue any problems.

Does anyone know if HP Tuners can cycle the ABS like a tech 2?

Lbar

Put some miles on the car tonight, looked under it and found a new wet spot. Seems maybe one of my flares was not exact enough or it needs some extra snugging. They did not leak after I installed the new line. I did plenty of practice braking before the wheels went on. Actually relieved to see this.

bigti99a

iTrader: (16)

check the rubber lines as well. thats where i had my issues.

Lbar

Well, I got under the car today and everything is dry. I did about 25 hard pumps while the engine ran and slid under the car. No fluid leaking from my flares. I'm glad that I did a good job on the flares but pissed that I'm having this issue. I'm going to bleed them again tonight I guess.

I can tell while braking that different wheels are grabbing better than others. Particularly the drivers side front seems to be doing the most work. Certainly still air in this baby.

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

Sounds like you got air in the ABS unit.

You need a TECHII or a proper way of cycling the ABS while bleeding.

There are good reports of guys using the TECHII clone.

http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/...off-tech2.html

Lbar

Thank you for the link, I did not know you could get a clone. I will pass this onto a friend of mine who does LS tuning and other work. I would probably consider bypassing the ABS or lighting the car on fire before I spent $500 to bleed air out of my brakes.

I've been checking out these homemade pressurizers that mimic a Motive unit. Easy to make. Maybe I can pressurize the system then get the ABS pumping locking the brakes up in the grass while under pressure.

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

Hard pumping on the pedal just makes it worse.

It breaks up big air bubbles into a bunch of smaller ones.

You might try renting a TECHII.

The clone costs less then having the dealer bleed the system.

Lbar

I know the hard pumping is counter productive but at the time I thought there was a leak at one of my new brake line fittings. I'm going to pressure bleed next. A true Christmas miracle, I found a friend who manages Meinekes that can lend me a Snap On Tech II.

serik21

Here's a simple way to pump your abs. Bleed your brakes with your car running. Simple as that. You can send me money after it works

Fweasel

iTrader: (6)

How does that work? As I understand it, The ABS system monitors individual wheel speeds. With the car sitting static in the air, how does merely cycling fluid through the lines cause the ABS pump to activate?

DMM

Snap-On Tech II you say? That would be a true miracle, indeed.

serik21

The traction systems monitors the abs system. When your car is running your abs is running. When you open your brake line fluid goes out and your abs pumps more fluid into that line. Kinda like what happens when you lock up your tires on ice. Try it.

Fweasel

iTrader: (6)

I thought the ABS pump was nothing more than a pump and divertor valves. I was unaware it could detect fluid flow.

wes8398

iTrader: (2)

Just a guess, but maybe he's saying it doesn't need to detect fluid flow. Rather, it diverts the flow to the lowest pressure. So if you open a bleed valve, pressure obviously drops, and thus the ABS unit sends fluid (and any air that might be in there) to that wheel. Maybe?